Cutting and Garment Construction Techniques
This domain covers layout, the cutting action itself, and the seam types that decide whether a garment survives washing. Expect items on grainline checks, seam selection for a named fabric, and allowance arithmetic.
Layout and cutting rules
- The grainline arrow must be parallel to the selvedge: measure the distance at both ends of the arrow, do not eyeball it.
- "Cut on fold" is placed exactly on the folded edge, which becomes centre front or centre back.
- Notches are cut outward, never inward into the seam line.
- Cut with long smooth strokes, shears flat with the lower blade on the table; do not lift the fabric. Keep pattern weights or pins clear of the cutting line.
- Napped and one-way fabrics: every piece laid in the same direction.
Seam choice
- Plain seam 1–1.5 cm, pressed open: general work.
- French seam: fine fabrics. Stitch 5 mm with wrong sides together, trim to 3 mm, turn, press, stitch 6 mm to enclose the raw edge.
- Flat-fell: denim and uniforms. Stitch 1.5 cm, trim the under allowance to 6 mm, fold the wider allowance over it and edge-stitch.
- Overlock or zigzag: knits and fraying fabrics.
Worked example
A cotton voile kurta: a plain seam would fray and show through the sheer cloth, so a French seam is chosen. Allow 2 cm at side seams because 5 mm plus 6 mm is used and the first allowance is trimmed; after stitching, clip the armhole curve at intervals so it turns cleanly.
Traps
- Cutting while the fabric is off-grain, so the garment twists after the first wash.
- Losing notches, after which sleeve and armhole will not match.
- Clipping through the stitching on a curve, which opens the seam.