Stitching, Fitting and Finishing
This domain tests machine control, the fitting sequence, common alterations and the finishing operations that separate a home-sewn garment from a professional one.
Stitching controls
- Backstitch 2–3 stitches at the start and end of a seam; staystitch 12 mm from the edge on curves before any fitting so the neckline cannot stretch.
- Match upper and lower thread to the fabric; test tension on a scrap of the actual cloth.
Fitting sequence
- Check shoulder line, bust point position, armhole depth, waist position and back length, in that order.
- Sew a muslin for a new pattern, mark corrections on it with a pen, transfer them to the paper pattern.
- Common alterations: narrow shoulder, sway back (take a horizontal dart), full bust (slash and spread), sleeve pitch, and letting out at the hip.
Finishing and pressing
- Understitch facings so they stay turned to the inside; grade and clip allowances; press darts over a ham, not flat.
- Hems 2.5–4 cm, slip-stitched or blind-hemmed by machine; hooks, eyes, buttons and zip fitted last.
- Press as you sew: set the stitch with the iron, then press the seam open.
Worked example
A bodice gapes at the armhole and pulls across the bust. This is a full bust adjustment: slash vertically through the bust point, spread 2 cm at the bust line, and draw in a dart. That adds 4 cm to the full bust; if the waist already fits, remove the same amount from the waist dart.
Traps
- Pressing darts flat, which flattens the bust shape.
- Handling a neckline before staystitching and stretching it out of shape.
- Hemming with a tight thread, which puckers the hem edge.