UPMSP Vocational Embroidery flashcards
UPMSP Vocational Embroidery · Build recall with a focused review session.
32 cards. Read the term and the definition here. The deck at the top of this page is optional.
- Tapestry needle
- A blunt-tipped needle with a long eye, sized 13 to 28 where higher numbers are finer; it slips between fabric threads and is used for counted-thread work on Aida and evenweave.
- Stranded embroidery cotton
- A six-strand divisible thread; you separate and use one to six strands, choosing fewer strands for fine muslin and more for bold coverage on cotton or wool.
- Hoop tension
- The fabric must be stretched drum-tight inside the hoop so stitches lie flat and the design does not pucker; loosen the screw or remove the work afterwards to avoid marks.
- Aari hook
- A tambour hook with a wooden handle used for zardosi; it is held above fabric stretched on an adda frame and pulls zari up in a row of chain loops.
- Working thread length
- About 45 cm, roughly the distance from hand to elbow; longer threads fray, tangle and lose their sheen from repeated friction through the fabric.
- Stem stitch
- Worked left to right with the needle brought up halfway along the previous stitch and the thread kept below it; it makes a firm rope-like outline that follows curves.
- Satin stitch
- Straight parallel stitches worked close together across a shape so no ground fabric shows; long areas are padded first with split or back stitch to keep them raised.
- French knot
- A raised dot made by wrapping the thread one to three times round the needle before reinserting it one thread's width away; more wraps make a larger knot.
- Chain stitch
- A looped stitch where the needle returns to the same hole while the loop is held with the thumb; a single loop tacked at its tip becomes a lazy daisy petal.
- Long and short stitch
- A shading stitch whose first row alternates long and short stitches; each later row interlocks into the previous one, blending two or more thread colours smoothly.
- Chikankari
- White-on-white embroidery of Lucknow on fine cotton or muslin, using bakhiya double backstitch for shadow, murri French knots, phanda, jaali net and tepchi running stitch.
- Zardosi
- Mughal-origin metal-thread embroidery from Delhi and Uttar Pradesh, worked on an adda frame with an aari hook using dabka, kora, salma, sitara sequins and beads.
- Phulkari
- Punjab's floss-silk darning stitch on khaddar cotton; stitches are taken on the reverse so long bright floats appear on the front, and a bagh covers the whole ground.
- Kantha
- Bengali running-stitch quilting through two or three layers of old sari cloth, with darning-stitch motifs and borders; the stitching both decorates and holds the layers.
- Kasuti
- Karnataka counted-thread work on dark Ilkal cotton using four stitches: gavanti double running, murgi zigzag, negi running and menthe cross, with a neat reverse side.
- Chamba rumal
- A pictorial embroidered coverlet from Himachal Pradesh worked in double satin stitch so the front and back look alike, usually showing legends and court scenes.
- Boteh motif
- The paisley or mango shape with a curved tip, originally a Persian buta, used in Kashmiri shawls, Banarasi zari and block prints as a single or repeated motif.
- Complementary colours
- Hues opposite each other on the colour wheel, such as red and green or blue and orange; they give maximum contrast and are used sparingly for emphasis.
- Half-drop repeat
- A layout in which alternate rows of motifs are shifted by half the motif's height, avoiding the visible vertical columns produced by a straight block repeat.
- Colour value
- The lightness or darkness of a colour: adding white makes a tint and adding black makes a shade. Value contrast keeps embroidery motifs readable from a distance.
- Jaal pattern
- An all-over net-like design of interlacing vines and flowers that covers the whole fabric, typical of Mughal jaali screens and Banarasi brocade.
- DST file format
- The Tajima stitch file, the most widely accepted commercial machine-embroidery format; it stores stitch coordinates only, so thread colours are assigned at the machine.
- Tatami fill stitch
- A series of close parallel rows of stitching set at a slight angle, used to fill large areas evenly; the angle and density affect shine and stiffness.
- Underlay stitches
- Rows of stitching placed first under a machine design, such as centre run, edge walk or zigzag, to stabilise fabric, lift the design and prevent puckering.
- Water-soluble stabilizer
- A plastic film or non-woven backing that dissolves in water after stitching; it supports sheer fabrics, pile such as terry, and freestanding lace.
- Bobbin tension check
- With balanced tension a tiny dot of bobbin thread shows at the ends of satin stitches on the fabric back; bobbin thread looping on top means top tension is too tight.
- Fabric grainline
- The direction of the warp threads, parallel to the selvedge; cutting on grain keeps embroidery panels stable, while bias edges stretch and need stay-stitching.
- Colour fastness test
- Rub a damp white cloth on a thread or fabric scrap and check for dye transfer; if colour bleeds, keep it away from pale grounds and washable articles.
- Care label iron dots
- One dot means a cool iron up to 110 °C, two dots up to 150 °C and three dots up to 200 °C; a cross over the iron means do not iron.
- Costing formula
- Total cost equals material plus direct labour plus overheads; selling price adds the profit margin, and break-even units equal fixed costs divided by price minus variable cost.
- Udyam registration
- The free online MSME registration in India that gives a permanent identity number and access to priority-sector loans, subsidy schemes and tender preferences.
- 20-20-20 eye rule
- Every 20 minutes of close embroidery work, look at something about 20 feet away for 20 seconds to relax the eye muscles and reduce fatigue.