WBBSE Madhyamik Sewing & Needle Work (Optional) flashcards

35 cards. Read the term and the definition here. The deck at the top of this page is optional.

Bent-handle shears

Fabric-cutting scissors with one handle raised so the lower blade stays flat on the table while cutting. They give smooth, accurate cuts and must never be used on paper.

Seam ripper

A small tool with a sharp point and a curved blade used to cut and remove stitches without damaging the fabric. It is also used to open buttonholes.

Machine needle size 80/12

A general-purpose needle for medium-weight fabric such as cotton, poplin and light denim. The first number is the metric size and the second the American size.

Tape measure care

A flexible 150 cm measuring tape should be kept rolled, not stretched or folded sharply, because a stretched tape gives wrong body measurements and a badly fitting garment.

Running stitch

A basic hand stitch of small, even stitches worked in a straight line, with equal length on both sides. Used for tacking, gathering and light seams.

Back stitch

A strong hand stitch made by inserting the needle at the end of the previous stitch. It looks like machine stitching and does not stretch.

French seam

A seam sewn twice, first with wrong sides together, then with right sides together, so raw edges are enclosed. Used on fine, sheer and lightweight fabrics.

Flat-fell seam

A strong seam in which one seam allowance is trimmed and the other folded over it and stitched down. Common on shirts, jeans and children's wear.

Seam allowance

The strip of fabric between the stitching line and the raw edge. The standard allowance is 1.5 cm for most garments and 1 cm for curves.

Dart manipulation

Moving a dart to a new position by pivoting or slashing the pattern around a fixed point. The fit and total dart intake stay the same.

Grain line arrow

A marked arrow on a pattern piece showing the direction of the straight grain. It must be placed parallel to the selvedge when cutting.

Basic block

A plain, close-fitting pattern drafted from body measurements without seam allowance or style details. It is the starting point for all pattern adaptation.

Notch marks

Small marks cut on the seam allowance to match pattern pieces. A single notch usually marks the front and a double notch the back.

Place on fold

A pattern symbol showing that the edge must be laid exactly on the folded fabric. The piece is cut as one unfolded piece when the fabric is opened.

Tailor's tacks

Looped threads worked through two layers of fabric and pattern to transfer marks such as darts and pocket positions. They are removed after marking.

Cutting notches outward

Notches are cut as small outward triangles rather than inward slits, so the seam allowance is not weakened and the mark stays visible during sewing.

One-way fabric layout

Napped or directional fabrics such as velvet and corduroy must have all pattern pieces laid in the same direction, otherwise the pieces show different shades.

Natural waistline

The narrowest part of the torso, usually found by bending sideways. It is the reference point for waist measurement and for drafting the bodice block.

Back length measurement

The distance from the prominent bone at the base of the neck straight down to the natural waistline. Used for drafting bodices, blouses and dresses.

Wearing ease

The extra room added to body measurements so a garment can be worn and moved in comfortably. It is separate from design ease added for style.

Hip measurement

The measurement around the fullest part of the hips, usually 18 to 23 cm below the waist. Used for skirts, trousers and dresses.

Take-up lever

The lever on a sewing machine that pulls thread from the spool and controls stitch formation. The machine must be threaded with it in the raised position.

Bobbin tension

The lower thread tension set by the small screw on the bobbin case. It is adjusted only after the upper tension has been checked and set correctly.

Skipped stitches

A stitching fault where the needle fails to pick up the bobbin thread. Common causes are a bent or blunt needle, wrong needle size or incorrect threading.

Feed dogs

Toothed metal bars under the presser foot that move the fabric forward during stitching. They must be cleaned of lint regularly and lowered for free-motion work.

Burning test

A fibre identification test. Cotton and linen smell of burning paper and leave soft ash; wool and silk smell of burning hair; synthetics melt into a hard bead.

Selvedge

The firmly woven edge of a fabric running along the warp. It does not fray and marks the direction of the straight grain.

Knitted fabric

Fabric made from interlocking loops of yarn, giving stretch and elasticity. It does not fray like woven fabric but can run if a loop breaks.

Viscose rayon

A regenerated fibre made from wood pulp. It is soft, absorbent and drapey but loses strength when wet, so it must be washed gently.

Understitching

A row of stitching worked through the facing and seam allowances close to the seam. It stops the facing rolling to the outside of the garment.

Blind hem

A hem finish where tiny stitches pick up only a thread of the garment fabric, making the stitching almost invisible on the right side.

Stem stitch

An embroidery outline stitch worked from left to right with small overlapping slanting stitches. It makes a firm, slightly raised line for stems and outlines.

French knot

An embroidery stitch made by wrapping the thread two or three times around the needle and returning the needle close to where it came out, forming a small dot.

Darning

A repair technique for holes in knitwear, worked with rows of running stitches across the hole and then woven over with cross threads to rebuild the fabric.

Care label iron symbol

An iron shape on a care label gives ironing instructions. One dot means low heat, two dots medium, three dots high, and a cross means do not iron.