WBBSE Madhyamik Sewing & Needle Work (Optional) key terms

A long, easily removable running stitch worked by hand to hold fabric layers together temporarily before final stitching. It keeps pieces from shifting during machine sewing and is pulled out afterwards.

A strong hand stitch made by taking one stitch forward and then bringing the needle back into the end of the previous stitch. It forms a firm, continuous line used where strength is needed, such as in seams and repairs.

A slanting hand stitch that secures a folded hem edge to the garment with tiny, almost invisible stitches on the right side. It allows the hem to lie flat while keeping the raw edge enclosed.

A looped hand stitch worked along a raw edge to bind it and prevent fraying. It is also used decoratively on appliqué edges and blanket borders, giving a firm, neat finish.

A slanting hand stitch worked over a raw edge to stop the fabric from fraying before the seam is joined or finished. It is common on fabrics that ravel easily.

The simplest hand stitch, made by passing the needle in and out of the fabric at even intervals to produce a short dashed line. It is used for gathering, tacking and light seams.

The narrow strip of fabric between the stitching line and the raw edge, usually 1 to 1.5 cm on school garments. It is measured and marked before cutting so seams can be joined accurately.

The marked line on the fabric along which the seam is stitched, lying inside the seam allowance. Cutting and stitching are both guided by it, so accurate transfer from the pattern is essential.

A paper shape drafted to the body measurements and seam allowances, used as a guide for cutting fabric pieces. It shows grain line, fold line, notches and darts needed to build a garment correctly.

The double-ended arrow printed on a pattern that must be placed parallel to the selvedge. Cutting on the correct grain keeps the garment from twisting and hanging unevenly after stitching.

A small mark or snip cut on the edge of a pattern and its matching fabric piece. When two notches meet during stitching, the pieces are correctly aligned and cannot be joined wrongly.

A wedge-shaped tuck stitched into fabric to shape it to the curves of the body, for example at the bust or waist. It removes excess width and gives a flat piece of cloth three-dimensional form.

A trial garment made in cheap cotton from the drafted pattern to test fit and balance before cutting the final fabric. Alterations are marked on the toile and transferred back to the pattern.

The firmly woven, non-fraying edge running along both sides of a length of fabric. It marks the lengthwise grain and is normally not used inside a garment because it behaves differently from the rest of the cloth.

The diagonal direction of a woven fabric, at 45 degrees to the selvedge. Bias-cut strips stretch and curve well, making them ideal for binding curved edges and for soft, draped garments.

A narrow strip cut on the bias and folded so it can enclose a raw edge neatly. Because it stretches, it follows curves such as necklines and armholes without puckering.

A shaped piece of fabric sewn to the inside of a garment edge, such as a neckline or armhole, and turned back to finish it. It hides the raw edge and stiffens the opening slightly.

A stiffening fabric attached to the wrong side of garment pieces, for example behind collars, cuffs and waistbands. It adds body and helps the shaped parts hold their form through wear and washing.

A fibre obtained from plants or animals, such as cotton, jute, linen, silk and wool. Each has characteristic burning and absorbency behaviour that helps in identifying unknown fabrics.

A soft natural plant fibre that absorbs moisture well, withstands washing and pressing at high heat, and is comfortable in warm weather. It creases easily and shrinks unless pre-shrunk.

A simple identification test in which a few fibres are burned and the flame, smell and ash are observed. Cotton smells of burning paper, wool of burning hair, and synthetics melt into a hard bead.

A flexible, marked strip used to take body measurements and to check pattern and fabric lengths. It must be held snug but not tight, and replaced when stretched or faded so readings stay accurate.

A set of recorded distances around and along the body, such as bust, waist, hip and length, taken over light clothing. These figures are the basis for drafting patterns and choosing a commercial size.

A table listing standard body measurements for each garment size, used to match a person's figures to a pattern. When measurements fall between sizes, the larger size is usually chosen and then altered.

The extra room built into a garment beyond the body measurements so the wearer can move and breathe. Woven fabrics need more ease than stretch knits, and fitted styles need less than loose ones.

The small spool that carries the lower thread inside the sewing machine's bobbin case. It must be wound evenly and inserted the right way round, or the machine will skip stitches or jam.

The balance of tightness between the upper thread and the lower thread in a sewing machine. Correct tension makes both threads meet inside the fabric; too tight or too loose causes loops and puckering.

The thread that runs from the spool through the tension discs, take-up lever and needle. Its path must be threaded correctly, with the presser foot raised, for stitches to form properly.

The lever or dial on a sewing machine that sets how far the feed dogs move the fabric per stitch. Short stitches suit fine fabric and reinforcement; longer stitches suit basting and heavy cloth.

The toothed metal bar under the presser foot that moves the fabric forward while stitching. It must be cleaned of lint and lowered for free-motion work such as darning or embroidery.

A decorative technique in which a shaped piece of fabric is stitched onto a larger background. The edges are turned under or finished with a close stitch so the motif stands out in colour and texture.

A smooth, closely packed embroidery stitch worked across a shape so the threads lie side by side with a glossy surface. It is used for small motifs, lettering and outlining appliqué.

An embroidery stitch in which loops are worked in a line to look like linked chain links. It is used for outlines, stems and decorative borders and can be worked by hand or machine.

A repair technique that rebuilds a worn or torn area by weaving new threads across and along the hole. Worked on the wrong side with matching thread, it restores strength without a visible patch.

A piece of fabric stitched over a hole or worn spot to strengthen and conceal it. The patch should match the garment in fibre and wash behaviour and be cut on the same grain.

A change made to a ready-made or stitched garment so it fits better, such as taking in a seam or shortening a hem. Alterations are done from the inside and pressed carefully to hide the work.

The extra fabric turned up at the lower edge of a garment to make the hem. Its depth depends on the style and fabric, and it is pressed and stitched with a hemming or machine stitch.