Basic Hand Stitches and Seams
This domain carries the heaviest practical weighting. Questions ask you to define a stitch, differentiate between two similar stitches, draw the diagram, or state the correct use of a seam for a given fabric.
Temporary stitches
Even basting, uneven basting, diagonal basting and tailor's tacks are removed after the permanent stitching. Basting holds two layers in place; it is never the finished seam.
Permanent hand stitches
- Running stitch - short, even stitches on both sides; used for gathering, tucks and Kantha.
- Back stitch - a stitch forward and a half-stitch back; strong enough to replace machine stitching.
- Stem or outline stitch, chain stitch, satin stitch, lazy daisy and French knot belong to embroidery.
- Hemming: blind hem (slip stitch) invisible on the right side; visible hemming; blanket stitch for edges; buttonhole stitch for loops and eyelets.
Seams
- Plain seam: right sides together, 1.5 cm (5/8 inch) allowance, stitched, trimmed and pressed open.
- French seam: for sheer, fine and light fabrics. Sew wrong sides together at 6 mm, trim to 3 mm, turn so right sides face, stitch 1 cm to enclose the raw edge.
- Run-and-fell (flat fell) for shirts, pyjamas and denim; overcasting or overlocking to neaten a plain seam.
Worked example
A light cotton-silk dupatta must be joined with no raw edges showing on either side. The correct choice is a French seam, not a plain seam: the plain seam would fray and show its allowance through the sheer cloth, while the French seam encloses the raw edge inside a second row of stitching and is neat on both faces.
Traps that cost marks
- Reversing the French seam order - it starts wrong sides together, not right sides.
- Omitting the back stitch at the beginning and end of a hand seam.
- Using long running stitches where the seam must bear strain.
- Not pressing the plain seam open before the next stage.