Marking and Cutting
This domain tests the preparation steps that decide whether a garment hangs straight. Questions ask about grain, laying out, pinning, transferring marks, and the correct handling of prints and napped fabrics.
Preparing the fabric
- Straighten the grain: snip the selvedge and pull a crosswise thread until it runs out at the opposite selvedge.
- Preshrink cotton by soaking and drying before cutting.
- Press out creases; never cut over a crease.
Marking
- Tailor's tacks transfer dart lines and matching points through two layers.
- Chalk and tracing wheel for single layers; keep all marks on the wrong side.
- Notches are cut outward, in the seam allowance, never inward into the garment.
Laying out and cutting
- Place the grainline parallel to the selvedge; measure at both ends, not by eye.
- For pieces cut in pairs, fold the fabric right sides together.
- Pin diagonally inside the seam allowance, 8–10 cm apart, so pins do not mark the stitching line.
- Cut with long, smooth strokes, keeping the lower blade flat on the table and the fabric flat on the table.
- Directional prints and napped fabrics need a one-way layout: every piece pointing the same way.
Worked example
A printed cotton with a directional motif, such as stylised fish, must yield a kurta. Even though a mirror layout would save half a metre, all pieces are placed with the top of the pattern towards the same end of the fabric. Reasoning: in a mirror layout, the motif on one sleeve would sit upside down and the garment would be rejected as faulty.
Traps that cost marks
- Cutting notches inward, which weakens the seam edge.
- Using pinking shears to cut out the garment pieces.
- Cutting before the grain is straightened.
- Lifting the fabric off the table while cutting, so the lower layer shifts and the pieces come out different sizes.