Taking Body Measurements and Size Charts
The exam asks for the landmarks, the correct way to hold the tape, and how to read a ready-made size chart. A favourite question is to give measurements and ask which size to select, or to ask why ease is added.
Landmarks and how to measure
- Neck round at the base of the neck; shoulder width from shoulder point to shoulder point.
- Chest or bust round at the fullest point, tape horizontal under the arms.
- Waist round at the natural waist, the narrowest part; hip round at the fullest part, usually 18–20 cm below the waist.
- Armhole round, sleeve length (shoulder point to wrist, arm bent), full length, and inseam.
- Measure over a close-fitting garment, tape snug but not tight, one finger never tucked inside.
Ease and size charts
- Garment measurement = body measurement + ease. A fitted bodice needs 2–5 cm at the bust; a loose kurta 10–15 cm.
- Ready-made charts step by 5 cm (2 inch) at the bust, with matching waist and hip for each size.
- Half measurements are used in drafting; full round measurements are recorded first.
Worked example
Bust 86 cm, waist 71 cm, hip 91 cm. On a chart where size 34 carries bust 86, waist 71 and hip 91, the correct body size is 34. For a semi-fitted kurta the cutting width becomes 86 + 5 = 91 cm at the bust. The student must not size up to 36 for comfort: the shoulders, armhole and neck of size 36 would be too large and the garment would droop.
Traps that cost marks
- Measuring over a sweater or a loose shirt.
- Holding the tape loosely or with a finger inside it.
- Recording half measurements and later using them as full rounds.
- Omitting ease and cutting exactly to the body measurement, giving a garment that cannot be worn comfortably.