Garment Construction and Finishing
This domain asks for the order of construction and the correct finish for a given edge. Questions commonly ask why a step is done, or what goes wrong when a finish is skipped.
Sequence of work
Layout, cutting, marking, tacking or basting, stitching in a fixed order, pressing at each stage, then finishing and the final press.
Standard order of stitching
- Darts and tucks first, then shoulder seams, then the neckline finish, then sleeves, then side seams, then hem.
- Press each seam as it is stitched; never leave all pressing to the end.
Finishes
- Necklines: self-fabric facing, bias strip binding, or piping.
- Plackets: continuous lap for a cuff opening, two-piece placket for a shirt.
- Hems: double-fold (turn 5 mm, then 2 cm), blind hem, machine hem.
- Fastenings: buttons and worked buttonholes, hooks and eyes, centred, lapped or invisible zips.
Worked example
A round neckline on a cotton kurta. The facing is stitched to the neckline with right sides together, the seam allowance is trimmed to 6 mm and clipped at the curve, then the facing is understitched close to the seam and turned to the wrong side and pressed. Reasoning: clipping lets the curved edge lie flat instead of wrinkling, and understitching holds the facing down so it does not roll to the right side.
Traps that cost marks
- Not clipping a curved seam allowance, leaving a puckered neckline.
- Pressing darts flat instead of over a shaped surface, so the dart leaves a ridge.
- Stitching the hem before the side seams are finished and pressed.
- Leaving raw seam edges inside an unlined garment.