Makeup Artist cheat sheet

Sanitize = reduce pathogens on surfaces; disinfect = destroy most pathogens on inanimate objects; sterilize = destroy all microorganisms including spores.

EPA-registered hospital-grade disinfectant with a stated contact/dwell time (commonly 10 minutes) is required for implements that contact skin or blood; follow the label time exactly.

Porous items that cannot be disinfected (cotton rounds, sponges, wooden sticks, lash strips) are single-use only; never re-dip a used applicator into a shared container.

Blood exposure protocol: stop service, gloves on, wash the area with soap and water, apply antiseptic, cover the wound, disinfect all contacted tools, discard contaminated disposables.

Client contraindications requiring physician clearance or service refusal: active cold sore, impetigo, conjunctivitis, head lice, ringworm, open/exudative lesions, undiagnosed rash.

Hand hygiene is the single highest-yield control: wash with soap and water for at least 20 seconds before and after each client and between glove changes.

Sharps (razors, lancets, extractor blades) go into a puncture-resistant sharps container; bloodied disposables into a lined, lidded biohazard bin.

Patch test 24-48 hours before first use of tint, adhesive, or high-sensitizer products (PPD tints, cyanoacrylate lash glue); document the result in the client record.

Epidermis layers (deep to superficial): stratum basale, spinosum, granulosum, lucidum (palms/soles only), corneum; melanocytes reside in the basale.

Dermis contains collagen (strength), elastin (recoil), and glycosaminoglycans/hyaluronic acid (hydration); UV damage degrades all three.

Skin types: normal, dry (lacks lipids, tight/patchy), oily (sebum-driven shine, enlarged pores), combination (oily T-zone, normal-to-dry cheeks), sensitive (reacts, may sting).

Fitzpatrick phototypes I-VI predict UV and pigment response: I-II burn easily and rarely tan; III-IV tan gradually; V-VI rarely burn and are still at risk of hyperpigmentation.

Undertone differs from surface tone: undertone (warm/cool/neutral/olive) is the hue beneath the skin; surface tone is the visible color that can change with flushing or tanning.

Barrier function sits in the stratum corneum: lipids (ceramides, cholesterol, fatty acids) plus natural moisturizing factor retain water; over-exfoliation compromises it.

Aging changes relevant to makeup: thinner epidermis, slower cell turnover, decreased sebum and estrogen-driven lipid loss, gravity-driven laxity, and bone resorption around the orbit.

Analysis order: cleanse/observe under neutral light, assess type and hydration, identify undertone, note texture (pores, scarring, milia), and flag contraindications before product selection.

Color wheel complements cancel unwanted tones: green neutralizes redness, peach/orange corrects blue-purple (dark circles), yellow corrects purple bruising, lavender corrects sallow yellow.

Foundation shade = depth (value) + undertone (hue) + chroma; matching depth alone produces a grey or orange mask.

Test foundation on the jawline or mid-cheek in natural daylight, not on the hand; the hand is a different depth and undertone from the face.

Olive undertones contain green; standard warm/cool labels misread them, so choose shades described as neutral-olive or mix a green adjuster.

Oxidation: oil-based foundations darken and warm as they mix with sebum and air; swatch, wait 10-15 minutes, then judge the final color.

Rule of thirds for value: light (high value) brings forward, dark recedes; monochromatic harmony uses one hue at varied values, analogous uses neighbors, complementary uses opposites.

Translucent setting powder reads lighter than pressed tinted powder; matte finishes deepen apparent shade, dewy finishes lighten it.

Color correcting precedes foundation only where needed; full-face correction under full-coverage foundation creates a heavy, mismatched result.

Seven classic face shapes: oval, round, square, heart (inverted triangle), oblong/rectangular, diamond, triangle (pear); oval is the reference, not a rule.

Contour darkens to recede and shorten; highlight lightens to bring forward and lengthen; place both at the outer perimeter to change apparent width.

Round face: contour temples, cheeks, and jaw corners; add vertical highlight down the nose and center forehead to elongate.

Square face: soften corners at the jaw and temples with contour; keep blush high and rounded rather than angular.

Heart face: contour the forehead's outer corners and temples; highlight the chin and lower cheeks to balance a narrow jaw.

Oblong face: horizontal blush placement and a soft, wide contour across the forehead and chin shorten apparent length; avoid vertical striping.

Nose correction: darken the sides and tip for shortening or narrowing; highlight the bridge for length; blend edges fully or the lines read as stripes.

Eye spacing and lid space drive shadow design: close-set eyes get light inner corners, wide-set get inner-corner deepening, hooded lids get shadow placed above the crease while open.

Brush fibers: natural hair (squirrel, sable, goat) holds powder and blends; synthetic fibers suit creams, liquids, and precise detail work and are easier to sanitize.

Foundation brushes: flat/stippling for full coverage, duo-fiber or buffing for sheer buildable layers; damp sponge gives the most skin-like finish.

Cream and powder layering order: cream products first, powder to set and blend; powder over cream can pill, cream over powder can drag.

Product forms: cream (emollient, dewy, best for dry skin), liquid (versatile), stick (portable, high pigment), powder (oil control, matte), gel/cream-to-powder (long wear).

Concealer families: corrector (peach/green, color-only), pot/cream (high coverage, emollient), liquid (light, flexible), and color-correcting pens.

Setting products: translucent loose powder for all-over set, pressed for touch-ups, setting spray to melt layers together; too much powder on dry skin accentuates texture.

Brush care: wash with gentle soap, reshape, dry flat or bristles-down; standing bristles-up lets water seep into the ferrule and loosen the glue.

Eyeliner formats: pencil (soft, smudgeable), gel (precise, long-wear), liquid (sharp wing), cake/cream (buildable); choose by desired line and lid texture.

Eyebrow mapping: start at the inner corner vertically, arch at the outer edge of the iris, tail at the outer corner of the eye aligned with the nostril.

Brow products: powder for soft fill, pencil for definition, pomade for bold sculpting, gel/soap for hold; match the brow hair, not the scalp hair.

Eyeshadow placement: lid, crease, transition (above crease), outer V, inner corner, brow bone; transition shade is the blend buffer between crease color and skin.

Hooded or mature lids: place shadow with eyes open and above the natural crease; avoid heavy shimmer on the hood, which emphasizes texture.

Lash application: curl, then apply adhesive to the band, wait until tacky (15-30 seconds), place at the base of the natural lashes, press and hold.

Strip lash sizing: trim from the outer end to fit the eye; too-long bands lift at the corners and irritate the lid.

Individual/volume lashes: isolate one natural lash, dip the base, place 1-2 mm from the lid line; never glue to the skin or cluster lashes together.

Lash adhesive safety: cyanoacrylate adhesives are for external use only; keep away from the eye, remove with oil-based remover, and patch test first.

Bridal timeline: trial 4-8 weeks before, skin prep starting 3-6 months out, touch-up kit (blotting papers, powder, lip, liner, lash glue) for the day.

Bridal longevity: layer a gripping primer, long-wear foundation, cream blush set with powder, waterproof mascara, and a setting spray; avoid new products on the day.

Editorial makeup is built for camera and lighting: stronger contour, matte or controlled shine, and color that survives flash; test under the shoot's lighting.

Fashion runway looks follow the designer's brief; the makeup artist confirms the look with the lead artist and photographs the final face for continuity.

Special-occasion looks scale to venue and photography: outdoor daylight favors sheer, luminous finishes; evening events tolerate more pigment and shimmer.

Bridal/event skin prep: exfoliate and hydrate in the weeks before, not the morning of; avoid new acids, retinoids, or waxing within 48-72 hours of the event.

Continuity on set: photograph each look from front, sides, and back; record products and placement so touch-ups match across takes.

Client comfort on long shoots: blotting, hydration, and a touch-up schedule every 1-2 hours under hot lights.

SFX categories: prosthetic (applied pieces), casualty (bruises, cuts, burns), character/aging, fantasy, and creature; each has its own materials and safety rules.

Bruise progression colors: red-purple (fresh), blue-black (1-2 days), green-yellow (3-5 days), yellow-brown (5-10 days); layer in that order for realism.

Alcohol-activated paints and airbrush colors require a barrier or fixing spray; never apply alcohol-based color to broken skin or near the eyes.

Silicone and gelatin prosthetics: skin-safe adhesive, blended edges with isopropyl alcohol or acetone, sealed with a matching sealer before paint.

Blood effects: use only cosmetic-grade blood products; avoid contact with eyes and mouth, and clean up immediately to prevent staining and cross-contamination.

Aging makeup: stipple and shade where gravity and expression create lines (nasolabial, crow's feet, neck), then highlight bone; avoid drawing flat lines.

Bald caps and lace-fronts: measure, glue with skin-safe adhesive, blend the edge with alcohol and powder, then paint; removal uses the matching solvent.

Patch test all adhesives, paints, and prosthetics 24-48 hours before application; document the result and have a removal plan for every application.

Consultation structure: goal, occasion, skin analysis, allergies and contraindications, reference images, budget, and timeline; confirm the plan before starting.

Reference images: ask the client to bring photos; translate them to the client's face shape, skin tone, and features rather than copying exactly.

Allergy and contraindication intake: ask about adhesives, fragrances, latex, PPD tints, retinoids, and prior reactions; record answers in writing.

Pricing models: flat rate, hourly, day rate, plus travel, kit fee, and assistant fees; quote in writing and state the deposit and cancellation policy.

Booking and contracts: deposit (often 20-50%), cancellation window, rescheduling terms, and a signed release for photography use.

Portfolio and marketing: consistent lighting, before/after pairs, and a niche (bridal, editorial, SFX); social proof and referrals drive bookings.

Client records: keep intake forms, patch-test results, and service notes; retain per local regulation and store securely.

Communication on set: confirm call time, location, kit needs, and the look with the lead artist; arrive early and keep a written call sheet.

Scope of practice: makeup artists apply cosmetics; they do not diagnose skin disease, prescribe, or perform medical treatments; refer suspicious lesions to a physician.

Licensing varies by jurisdiction: some regions require a cosmetology or esthetics license for skin-contact services; verify local rules before practicing.

Informed consent and confidentiality: explain products and risks, obtain consent, and protect client images and personal data.

Advertising ethics: never claim medical benefits, guaranteed results, or official affiliation; disclose sponsored products and retouched images.

Insurance: professional liability and general liability coverage protect against allergic reactions, injury, and property claims; confirm coverage for each service type.

Continuing education: track hours in sanitation, new products, and techniques; keep certificates current for insurance and licensing.

Career paths: freelance, salon/spa, retail counter, bridal agency, film/TV union, theater, and education; each has its own portfolio and networking norms.

Business hygiene: separate personal and business finances, invoice with terms, keep receipts for product and travel, and file taxes per local rules.