KS Esthetician cheat sheet

Kansas rules recognize three levels: sanitation (cleaning to remove visible debris), disinfection (chemical destruction of most pathogens on nonporous surfaces), and sterilization (destruction of all microbial life, including spores).

Disinfectant contact time is set by the manufacturer's label; a surface wiped dry before the labeled contact time has not been disinfected.

Porous items that contact blood or body fluids (nail files, cotton, wooden sticks, sponges) are single-use and must be discarded, not disinfected.

An EPA-registered hospital-grade tuberculocidal disinfectant is the benchmark for bloodborne pathogen exposure because mycobacteria are among the most resistant non-spore organisms.

Standard precautions treat all blood and body fluids as infectious; gloves are required for any service that may cause bleeding or contact non-intact skin.

Handwashing uses soap and running water for at least 20 seconds; alcohol-based sanitizer is not a substitute when hands are visibly soiled.

Implements must be cleaned of debris before immersion in disinfectant; organic matter inactivates many disinfectants.

Material Safety Data Sheets (now Safety Data Sheets under OSHA HazCom 2012) must be accessible for every chemical in the salon.

Epidermis layers deep to superficial: stratum basale (germinativum), stratum spinosum, stratum granulosum, stratum lucidum (palms and soles only), stratum corneum.

Keratinocytes migrate from the basal layer and are shed from the corneum; turnover is roughly 28 days in young adults and slows with age.

Melanocytes in the basal layer produce melanin via tyrosinase; melanosomes are transferred to keratinocytes, giving even distribution in healthy skin.

The dermis contains collagen (tensile strength), elastin (recoil), glycosaminoglycans such as hyaluronic acid (hydration), fibroblasts, mast cells, and blood vessels.

The hypodermis (subcutaneous layer) is adipose and fascia; it insulates, cushions, and anchors the skin to underlying structures.

Sebaceous glands secrete sebum, are largest on the face, scalp, and upper back, and are stimulated by androgens.

Eccrine sweat glands regulate temperature and are widespread; apocrine glands are limited to axillae and groin and become active at puberty.

Skin barrier function resides mainly in the stratum corneum: corneocytes plus intercellular lipids (ceramides, cholesterol, fatty acids) in a brick-and-mortar arrangement.

Fitzpatrick types I–VI grade sun reactivity; type I always burns and never tans, type VI is deeply pigmented and rarely burns.

Oily skin shows enlarged pores, shine, and comedones; dry skin shows flaking, tightness, and fine lines; combination skin has an oily T-zone with normal or dry cheeks.

Sensitive skin is characterized by reactivity (stinging, erythema) rather than by oil level; it can coexist with any skin type.

Contraindications to treat: active infection, open lesions, recent chemical peel or laser, sunburn, waxing over isotretinoin use, and undiagnosed pigmented lesions.

The ABCDE rule for pigmented lesions: Asymmetry, Border irregularity, Color variation, Diameter over 6 mm, Evolving change - refer, do not treat.

Comedones are noninflammatory; papules, pustules, and nodules are inflammatory acne lesions and should not be extracted.

Telangiectasia and rosacea are vascular conditions; heat, friction, and vasodilating products can aggravate them.

Seborrheic keratoses are benign, waxy, stuck-on growths; any lesion that bleeds, crusts, or changes should be referred to a physician.

A consultation record includes medical history, medications, allergies, prior cosmetic procedures, skin care regimen, and the client's stated goals.

Isotretinoin (Accutane) use within the past 6–12 months contraindicates waxing and aggressive exfoliation because skin is fragile and may tear.

Pregnancy and breastfeeding warrant avoiding high-dose retinoids, salicylic acid in large areas, and certain essential oils; refer to a physician for guidance.

Photosensitizing medications (tetracyclines, some diuretics, isotretinoin) increase risk with peels, lasers, and intense light.

Informed consent must be obtained before any service and documented with the date, service performed, products used, and any reactions.

Client records are confidential; release requires written client authorization or a legal requirement such as a court order.

Patch testing is indicated for clients with known sensitivities, particularly to waxes, adhesives, and chemical peels.

Adverse reactions must be recorded objectively (what was observed, when, and action taken) and the client referred for medical care when appropriate.

Standard facial sequence: consultation and skin analysis, cleansing, exfoliation, steam or warm towel, extractions, massage, mask, toning, moisturizing, sun protection.

Cleansers are selected by skin type: gel or foaming for oily, cream or milky for dry and mature, and gentle non-foaming for sensitive skin.

Physical exfoliants use friction (scrubs, brushes); chemical exfoliants use alpha hydroxy acids (glycolic, lactic) or beta hydroxy acid (salicylic).

Salicylic acid is lipid-soluble, penetrates follicles, and is preferred for oily and comedonal skin; AHAs are water-soluble and act on the surface.

Extraction is limited to mature comedones with visible open pores; use gentle pressure with fingers wrapped in tissue or a metal extractor, and stop if tissue tears.

Steam softens sebum and loosens comedones; keep the vapor at a comfortable distance and limit exposure for clients with rosacea or sensitive skin.

Masks are chosen by function: clay for oil absorption, hydrating gel or sheet masks for moisture, and calming masks for reactive skin.

Sunscreen at the end of every daytime facial is required because exfoliation increases photosensitivity.

Effleurage is gliding, light-to-firm stroking used to begin and end a massage and to link other movements.

Petrissage covers kneading, rolling, and squeezing of tissue; tapotement is rhythmic percussion; friction and vibration are deeper localized techniques.

Facial massage strokes generally follow lymphatic drainage from the center of the face outward and downward to the cervical nodes.

Massage is contraindicated over inflamed acne, active infection, recent surgery, or undiagnosed swelling.

Chemical peels are classified by depth: superficial (stratum corneum to papillary dermis), medium (papillary to upper reticular), and deep (reticular dermis).

Superficial peels use AHAs, BHAs, or low-percentage TCA; client preparation with retinoids or acids increases penetration and risk.

Microdermabrasion uses mechanical exfoliation with a crystal or diamond tip; it is contraindicated over active acne, rosacea flares, and recent isotretinoin use.

LED therapy: blue light targets acne bacteria, red light is used for calming and collagen support; eye protection is required for all light devices.

Hair growth stages: anagen (active growth, best for waxing), catagen (transition), and telogen (resting); waxing removes hair with the bulb when it is in anagen.

Hair should be about 1/4 inch (6 mm) long for wax to grip; trim longer hair before waxing.

Wax is applied in the direction of hair growth and removed against it, holding skin taut to reduce trauma.

Hard wax is applied thicker, hardens without strips, and is preferred for facial and sensitive areas; soft wax requires strips.

Contraindications: isotretinoin use, recent chemical peel or laser, sunburn, active infection, varicose veins, and diabetes with poor circulation (physician clearance).

Sugaring uses a sugar, lemon, and water paste applied and removed against the hair growth direction; it is water-soluble and applied at room temperature.

Threading uses twisted cotton thread to trap and lift hair; it is suitable for brows and upper lip and requires no wax or heat.

Double-dipping wax sticks or spatulas contaminates the pot and is prohibited; use a fresh applicator per client.

Foundation shade is matched to the jawline and neck in natural light, not to the hand or wrist.

Undertone categories: warm (yellow, golden, peach), cool (pink, red, blue), and neutral; foundation should match undertone as well as depth.

Face shapes guide contouring: oval is balanced; round is softened with vertical shading; square is softened at the jaw corners; heart is shaded at the temples.

Eyeshadow placement follows the eyelid crease; hooded lids need placement above the crease to remain visible when the eye is open.

Lash extensions require a patch test, isolated natural lashes, and adhesive applied 1–2 mm from the eyelid; never glue lashes to the skin.

Lash lift and tint services require a patch test 24–48 hours prior and are contraindicated with eye infections, recent eye surgery, or lash loss conditions.

Brow mapping uses three points: the start at the inner corner, the arch at the outer iris line, and the tail at the outer corner.

All eye-area implements and adhesives must be sanitized or single-use; mascara and lash adhesive are never shared between clients.

pH scale is 0–14; skin surface averages about pH 4.5–5.5, and products far outside that range can disrupt the acid mantle.

Alpha hydroxy acids include glycolic (smallest molecule, strongest penetration), lactic, malic, and tartaric; beta hydroxy acid is salicylic acid.

Retinoids bind retinoic acid receptors to increase cell turnover; they cause photosensitivity and are contraindicated in pregnancy.

Antioxidants such as vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid), vitamin E, and ferulic acid neutralize free radicals; vitamin C is unstable and degrades with light and oxygen.

Humectants attract water (glycerin, hyaluronic acid); emollients soften and smooth (oils, esters); occlusives prevent water loss (petrolatum, dimethicone).

Surfactants have a hydrophilic head and lipophilic tail; they lift oil and debris so it can be rinsed away.

Emulsions combine oil and water with an emulsifier; oil-in-water emulsions feel lighter, water-in-oil emulsions are richer and more occlusive.

Fragrance and essential oils are common sensitizers; patch testing and minimal ingredient lists reduce reaction risk for sensitive clients.

Kansas licenses estheticians through the Kansas Board of Cosmetology; a license is required to perform services for compensation.

License renewal and continuing education requirements are set by the Kansas Board of Cosmetology and published in its statutes and regulations (K.S.A. 65-1901 et seq.).

Salon licenses and individual licenses must be displayed; the Board conducts inspections and may suspend or revoke a license for violations.

Estheticians may perform skin care services within their scope; medical procedures such as injectables and laser resurfacing are reserved for licensed medical professionals.

Sanitation and disinfection standards are prescribed by Board rules; violations are grounds for discipline.

Client records and personal information are confidential; disclosing them without consent is an ethical and legal violation.

Advertising must not claim medical results or cures; scope-of-practice claims must match the license held.

Professional ethics require informed consent, honest disclosure of services and pricing, and referral to a physician when a condition is outside esthetic scope.