LA Esthetician cheat sheet

Infection requires a pathogen, a reservoir, a portal of exit, a mode of transmission, a portal of entry, and a susceptible host; breaking any link prevents transmission.

Sanitize = reduce pathogens on surfaces to a safe level (soap/detergent, EPA-registered sanitizer). Disinfect = destroy most pathogenic organisms on hard, nonporous implements (hospital-grade, EPA-registered). Sterilize = destroy all microbial life including spores (autoclave, 121 °C/15 psi/15–20 min).

Implements contacting blood or broken skin (extraction tools, tweezers, comedone extractors) are cleaned, then disinfected with an EPA-registered hospital-grade tuberculocidal disinfectant at label dilution and contact time.

Porous items that cannot be disinfected (cotton, gauze, sponges, wooden sticks, paper towels) are single-use and discarded after one client.

Handwashing: wet hands, apply soap, scrub palms/backs/interlacing/thumbs/nails 20 seconds, rinse, dry with a clean single-use towel, then close faucet with the towel.

Standard precautions treat all blood and body fluids as infectious; PPE includes gloves, goggles, and mask when splash risk exists; gloves are changed between clients, not washed.

Bloodborne pathogen exposure: stop service, wash the area with soap and water, allow bleeding to flow, apply antiseptic and bandage; report and document per employer policy.

Do not double-dip implements into product; use a spatula or dispense onto a clean surface. Electrical equipment stays away from water; check cords before use.

Disinfectant solutions are mixed fresh per manufacturer label; test strips confirm concentration, and contaminated solution is replaced, not topped off.

Epidermis layers, deep to superficial: stratum basale (germinativum), stratum spinosum, stratum granulosum, stratum lucidum (palms/soles only), stratum corneum.

Keratinocytes form in the basale, migrate upward, and are shed from the corneum; the full turnover (transit) time is roughly 28 days in healthy young adult skin and lengthens with age.

Melanocytes in the basale produce melanin in melanosomes and transfer it to keratinocytes; melanin absorbs UV and determines skin color.

Langerhans cells (immune, in spinosum) and Merkel cells (touch receptors, in basale) are the other epidermal residents.

Dermis has papillary (thin, loose connective tissue, capillaries, nerve endings) and reticular (thick, dense collagen and elastin) layers; it contains hair follicles, glands, and blood vessels.

Fibroblasts make collagen (tensile strength) and elastin (recoil); hyaluronic acid binds water in the dermal matrix.

Hypodermis (subcutaneous) is adipose and connective tissue providing insulation, cushioning, and energy storage.

Acid mantle: sebum plus sweat gives skin a surface pH around 4.5–5.5, which inhibits bacteria and supports barrier function.

Sweat glands: eccrine (all over, watery sweat, thermoregulation) and apocrine (axillae/genital area, respond to stress and hormones).

Skin types: normal, dry (alipidic), oily, combination, sensitive. Skin conditions (dehydration, acne, hyperpigmentation, rosacea, aging) are diagnosed as conditions, not types.

Analyze under magnification with clean hands and good light after cleansing: assess oiliness, pore size, hydration, texture, sensitivity, and pigmentation.

Fitzpatrick scale I–VI predicts UV response and risk; higher types have more constitutive pigment and greater risk of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation from trauma or heat.

Comedones: open (blackhead, oxidized sebum) vs closed (whitehead). Papules and pustules are inflamed; nodules and cysts are deeper and beyond esthetician scope.

Grade acne: mild (few comedones), moderate (papules/pustules), severe (nodulocystic). Severe or inflamed cystic acne, and any lesion needing medical care, is referred to a physician.

Contraindications to treat: open lesions, active herpes, impetigo, ringworm, conjunctivitis, sunburn, recent waxing/laser on the area, and undiagnosed rashes.

Dehydrated skin lacks water (fine lines, tightness) while dry skin lacks oil; a client can be oily and dehydrated at once.

Sensitive skin shows erythema, stinging, or reactivity to products; patch test and use fragrance-free, low-surfactant formulas.

Rosacea presents as flushing, visible vessels, and papules on the central face; avoid heat, friction, alcohol-based products, and strong exfoliation.

Standard facial sequence: consultation and skin analysis, cleansing, exfoliation (as indicated), massage, extraction (as indicated), mask, moisturizer and SPF, home-care recommendation.

Consultation documents medications, allergies, pregnancy, recent procedures (peels, lasers, injectables), and skin conditions; obtain informed consent before service.

Cleansing uses gentle circular motions; rinse with lukewarm water. Hot water and aggressive scrubbing strip the barrier and increase sensitivity.

Massage movements: effleurage (gliding), petrissage (kneading), tapotement (percussion), friction, and vibration; direction follows lymph drainage toward the clavicle and lymph nodes.

Manual extraction is done only on visible comedones after softening the skin with warm compresses; wrap fingers or use a properly disinfected extractor, and never squeeze inflamed lesions.

Mask selection: clay/charcoal for oily or congested skin, hydrating gel or sheet masks for dehydrated skin, cream masks for dry or mature skin; remove before it fully dries and cracks.

SPF 30 or higher, broad-spectrum, is the final daytime step; reapplication every two hours with sun exposure.

Document the service, products used, and any reaction in the client record; advise clients to avoid heat, strong actives, and sun exposure for 24–48 hours after exfoliation or extraction.

Contraindications to massage and heat include fever, acute inflammation, recent surgery, and uncontrolled hypertension; refer medically when in doubt.

Hair growth phases: anagen (active growth, most sensitive to waxing and laser), catagen (transition), telogen (resting, shedding).

Waxing works best when hair is 1/4 inch (about 6 mm) long; too short hair is not gripped, too long hair is trimmed first.

Wax temperature is tested on the inner wrist or back of the hand; hot wax should be warm, never burning. Thermal burns are the most common waxing injury.

Hard wax is applied thick and removed without a strip; soft wax is applied thin in the direction of hair growth and removed against the growth with a strip.

Contraindications: isotretinoin (Accutane) use, recent chemical peel or laser, sunburn, active infection, open lesions, varicose veins over the area, and diabetes with poor circulation (physician clearance).

Do not wax over moles, raised nevi, or broken skin; trim around them and note them in the record.

Post-wax care: soothe with a cold compress or calming lotion, avoid heat, sun, friction, and tight clothing for 24 hours; no retinoids or exfoliants on the area for 24–48 hours.

Ingrown hairs (pseudofolliculitis) are managed with gentle exfoliation and moisturizing between appointments; refer persistent or infected cases.

Threading and sugaring are alternatives; sugaring uses a sugar paste removed against hair growth, and threading traps hair in twisted thread.

Foundation shade matching is done on the jawline in natural light; undertone (warm, cool, neutral) matters more than depth alone.

Color theory for correction: green neutralizes redness, peach/orange corrects blue-purple undereye circles, yellow corrects purple, lavender brightens sallow tones.

Face shapes (oval, round, square, heart, oblong, diamond) guide contour, highlight, and brow placement; contour darkens and recedes, highlight brings forward.

Sanitation for makeup: never double-dip applicators, use a metal spatula to remove product to a palette, sharpen pencils before each client, and wash brushes with soap and water, then disinfect.

Mascara and liquid liner are single-use applicators only; do not pump the wand (it adds air and bacteria) and never share mascara.

Lash and brow tinting requires a patch test 24–48 hours before, protective pads, and careful timing per manufacturer instructions; never use hair dye on lashes.

Eyelash extensions require isolation of one natural lash per extension, medical-grade adhesive, and client screening for adhesive allergy, eye infection, or recent eye surgery.

Brow mapping uses three points: start at the inner corner aligned with the side of the nose, arch at the outer edge of the iris, and end at the outer corner of the eye.

Remove all eye makeup before lash services and check for contraindications such as conjunctivitis, styes, or watery eyes.

pH scale 0–14: below 7 acidic, 7 neutral, above 7 alkaline. Skin-friendly products sit near pH 4.5–5.5; high-pH soaps disrupt the acid mantle.

Surfactants clean by lowering surface tension; they have a hydrophilic head and lipophilic tail. Harsh surfactants (high-foam sulfates) can strip skin.

Alpha hydroxy acids (glycolic, lactic) exfoliate the stratum corneum; beta hydroxy acid (salicylic) is lipid-soluble and penetrates pores.

Retinoids increase cell turnover and collagen but cause photosensitivity; they are contraindicated with waxing, peels, and pregnancy (for retinoid drugs).

Antioxidants (vitamin C, vitamin E, niacinamide) neutralize free radicals; vitamin C is unstable and is formulated with stabilizers and lower pH.

Emulsions combine water and oil with an emulsifier; oil-in-water is lighter and water-in-oil is richer. Humectants attract water, emollients soften, occlusives seal.

Fragrance and essential oils are common sensitizers; patch test and choose fragrance-free formulas for reactive skin.

Product labels list ingredients in descending order of concentration; the first five ingredients usually define the formula's character.

Never mix or layer incompatible actives (e.g., high-strength acids with retinoids) without guidance; this risks irritation and barrier damage.

The Louisiana State Board of Cosmetology regulates estheticians, cosmetologists, manicurists, and salons; licenses are issued after completing required hours, passing the board exam, and paying fees.

Esthetician licensees must work under a licensed salon and display a current license; salons display the salon license and each practitioner's license.

Services must be performed only in a licensed establishment; practicing outside a licensed facility or with an expired license is a violation.

Sanitation rules require clean, disinfected implements, single-use items, covered waste containers, and a handwashing sink with hot and cold running water in the service area.

The Board requires continuing education for license renewal and sets renewal cycles and late fees; verify current hours and deadlines on the Board's site.

Client records and informed consent should be kept, and blood exposure incidents documented; the Board may inspect premises and records.

Advertising must not be false or misleading, and licensees may not claim medical authority or diagnose skin disease.

Unlicensed practice, allowing an unlicensed person to perform services, and unsanitary conditions are grounds for discipline, including fines, suspension, or revocation.

Reciprocity and license transfer are available only through the Board's process; check the Board's current rules for out-of-state applicants.