Hair Removal
What the exam tests
Hair removal questions test wax chemistry and temperature, hair growth cycles, patch testing, contraindications, and sanitation. The exam also distinguishes methods: soft wax, hard wax, sugaring, threading, and depilatory creams.
Core rules
- Hair grows in anagen, catagen, and telogen phases; waxing is most effective when hair is in anagen and at least about one-quarter inch long.
- Soft wax is applied thinly and removed with a strip; hard wax is applied thicker and removed without a strip, making it useful for sensitive areas.
- Test wax temperature on the inner wrist or back of the hand. It should be warm, never hot enough to burn.
- Patch test according to product directions, especially for clients with sensitive skin or allergies.
- Contraindications include isotretinoin use, recent topical retinoids, active infection, sunburn, irritated skin, uncontrolled diabetes, and varicose veins over the treatment area.
Worked example
A client used tretinoin on the upper lip three days ago and wants waxing. Reasoning: retinoids thin the stratum corneum and increase skin stripping risk. The esthetician should reschedule, typically until about seven days after stopping topical retinoids and per the prescriber's advice. Waxing now could remove skin along with hair.
Traps that cost marks
Double-dipping applicators; waxing over a mole without clearance; ignoring a client's report of burning; using hot wax on inflamed skin; and treating post-inflammatory pigmentation as a reason to wax more aggressively.