LGCSE Fashion & Textiles (0191) flashcards

32 cards. Read the term and the definition here. The deck at the top of this page is optional.

Staple versus filament fibre

Staple fibres are short lengths that must be spun into yarn, such as cotton and wool. Filament fibres are continuous strands, such as silk and polyester, giving smoother, stronger yarns.

Plain weave

The simplest woven structure where one warp thread passes over and under one weft thread alternately. It is strong, firm and low-drape, used for poplin, calico and canvas.

Twill weave

A weave producing diagonal lines on the fabric face because warp threads float over two or more weft threads. It is durable and hides soil, used for denim and gabardine.

Thermoplastic fibre behaviour

Synthetic fibres such as polyester and nylon soften and melt with heat, allowing permanent heat-set pleats. They also shrink away from flame and form a hard bead.

Design specification

A measurable checklist derived from research that states the requirements the final product must meet, such as dimensions, fabric performance and cost limits, so it can be tested.

Design brief

A statement defining the problem to solve, including the client or target user, purpose, constraints such as budget and time, and the required performance of the outcome.

Iterative design development

Repeated cycles of sketching, sampling and testing where each version is evaluated and modified. Changes and reasons are recorded so the final decision can be justified.

Dart manipulation

Moving a dart around a pivot point to a new position on a block without changing the fit, or converting it into gathers, tucks or seams to create a new style.

Grain line arrow

A marked arrow on a pattern piece showing how it must align with the lengthwise warp threads. Correct alignment prevents twisting and poor drape in the finished garment.

Wearing ease versus design ease

Wearing ease is the minimum extra measurement allowing movement and breathing. Design ease is additional allowance chosen to create a silhouette such as oversized or fitted.

Toile

A test garment made in inexpensive fabric from the pattern to check fit, proportion and construction before cutting the final fabric, reducing costly errors.

French seam

A seam where the raw edges are enclosed inside a stitched fold, giving a neat finish with no visible raw edges. Suited to light, sheer or frequently washed fabrics.

Flat fell seam

A strong seam where one raw edge is enclosed by the other and two rows of stitching show on the outside. Used on denim and workwear for durability.

Invisible zip insertion

A zip sewn into a seam using a special foot so the teeth are hidden behind the fabric fold. It is inserted before the seam is stitched closed.

Machine tension fault

Loops forming underneath indicate top tension too loose or bobbin tension too tight. Puckering and thread breakage indicate top tension too tight.

Discharge printing

A paste removes dye from previously dyed fabric to create a light pattern on a dark ground. It requires a dischargeable dye and gives a soft handle.

Half-drop repeat

A print layout where alternate vertical columns are shifted down by half the motif height. It breaks up visible horizontal lines compared with a straight repeat.

Reactive dye

A dye class that forms a chemical bond with cellulose fibres such as cotton and linen, giving good wash fastness and bright colours.

Appliqué

A decoration where a fabric shape is cut and stitched onto a base fabric, often with satin stitch or blanket stitch to secure and outline the edges.

Technical flat drawing

An accurate, unshaded, to-scale drawing of a garment showing seams, darts, topstitching and closures, used for manufacture rather than promotion.

Croquis

A stylised fashion figure, usually elongated to about nine heads tall, drawn as a base on which garment designs are sketched to show proportion and movement.

Dashed line convention

In technical drawing, a dashed line represents stitching such as topstitching or edge stitching, while solid lines represent seams and outlines.

Trickle-up fashion theory

The idea that styles originate in subcultures or street fashion and are adopted upwards by mainstream designers and luxury brands, opposite to trickle-down.

Haute couture definition

In France, a legally protected term for made-to-measure garments from Paris houses meeting criteria on atelier staff, fittings and seasonal collections.

Cultural appropriation in fashion

Using a marginalised culture's dress or symbols without credit, context or benefit to that community, distinguished from appreciation that acknowledges and involves the source culture.

Marker making

Arranging pattern pieces efficiently on fabric to minimise waste. Fabric use depends on marker area, garment quantity and fabric width.

Progressive bundle system

A production method where cut garment parts move in bundles through sequential operations by different operators. It suits large volumes but limits flexibility and operator variety.

Critical path

The sequence of dependent tasks that determines the shortest possible production lead time. Any delay on this path delays the whole order.

AQL inspection

Acceptable quality level sampling inspects a defined number of garments from a batch and accepts or rejects the batch against agreed fault limits.

Circular economy in textiles

A system where materials are designed to be reused, repaired or recycled and waste is designed out, replacing the linear take-make-dispose model.

Greenwashing

Making vague or unsubstantiated environmental claims so a product appears more sustainable than it is. Credible claims are specific, verifiable and lifecycle-based.

Ballpoint needle use

A needle with a rounded point that pushes between knit loops instead of cutting them, preventing ladders and dropped stitches in jersey and stretch fabrics.