ME Cosmetology cheat sheet

Hair is roughly 90% keratin protein; the cortex holds pigment and moisture, the medulla is the soft central core, and the cuticle is the outer overlapping scale layer that determines porosity.

pH scale runs 0-14; hair and skin sit near pH 4.5-5.5. Products above pH 7 swell the cuticle; products at or below pH 5.5 tighten it and increase shine.

Cortex bonds: disulfide (broken by relaxers and perms), salt (broken by water and reformed on drying), hydrogen (broken by water or heat and reset by blow-drying), plus peptide and van der Waals bonds.

Porosity test: spray water on a strand. Slow absorption and beading = low porosity; rapid absorption and quick drying = high porosity; even absorption = normal porosity.

Elasticity test: stretch a wet strand. Normal hair stretches 50% of its length and returns; low elasticity snaps or stays stretched, indicating damage and limiting chemical services.

Density is strands per square inch (thin, medium, thick); texture is strand diameter (fine, medium, coarse). Fine hair processes faster and holds less volume.

Shampoo surfactants lift oil; conditioner's fatty alcohols and cationic quaternary compounds smooth the cuticle and reduce static. Clarifying shampoo removes buildup but is not for daily use.

Thermal styling: blow-dryer barrel temperature rises with wattage; curling irons run 250-450°F and flat irons 300-450°F. Wet-to-dry tools and wet hair should stay below 300°F to limit bubble hair damage.

Wet styling uses gel, mousse, and setting lotion; dry styling uses pomade, wax, and hairspray. Waving lotion is applied to damp hair and dried under a hood for wet sets.

Four basic cuts: blunt (zero elevation, 0°), graduated (45° elevation, stacked), layered (90° elevation), and long-layered (180° elevation).

Elevation is the angle the hair is held from the head: 0° builds weight, 45° builds stacked volume, 90° creates uniform layers, 180° removes the most weight.

Guidelines: stationary guide does not move and creates a solid shape; traveling guide moves with each section and follows the head form.

Cutting over the fingers builds length and weight; cutting inside the fingers (on the palm) removes more length and softens weight lines.

Cross-checking cuts the same section at a perpendicular angle to verify balance and symmetry; it is standard on every finished haircut.

Section sizes: subsections no wider than the blade, no thicker than the finger depth, so tension and control stay consistent.

Clipper guards: #1 = 1/8 inch, #2 = 1/4 inch, #3 = 3/8 inch, #4 = 1/2 inch. Blending from short to long requires cutting against the growth pattern.

Texturizing tools: thinning shears remove bulk without changing length; razor cutting softens ends but is avoided on fine or curly hair; notching and slithering create mobility.

Dry cutting reveals the true length and is used for curly hair, fringes, and precision finishing; wet cutting gives cleaner lines but shrinks up 1/2 inch on curls.

Level system 1-10: 1 is black, 5 is light brown, 7 is medium blonde, 10 is lightest blonde. Color is described by level plus tone (ash, gold, beige, red, copper).

Developer volume to lift: 10 vol lifts 1 level, 20 vol lifts 2, 30 vol lifts 3, 40 vol lifts 4. Higher volume also means more lightening and more damage; 40 vol is not used on the scalp.

Permanent color deposits and lifts by opening the cuticle with ammonia or MEA and oxidizing melanin; it requires a patch test 24-48 hours before the first application and a strand test.

Semipermanent color uses no ammonia and low-volume developer, deposits only, fades over 4-6 shampoos, and cannot lighten. Demipermanent (acid) color is deposit-only with low-lift capability.

The law of color: primary colors are red, yellow, blue; secondary are orange, green, violet; complementary pairs neutralize each other (blue cancels orange, violet cancels yellow, green cancels red).

Relaxer strength: sodium hydroxide (lye, pH 12-14, no mixing) versus guanidine (no-lye, pH 9-10, mixed with activator). Base relaxers sit on the scalp; no-base relaxers require a protective base cream.

Relaxer timing: apply to the most resistant area last, smooth only 5-10 minutes total, rinse thoroughly, and neutralize with shampoo at pH 4.5-5.5 to stop the chemical action and restore pH.

Perm wrapping: 9 sections are standard; hair is wrapped wet with end papers, processed with ammonium thioglycolate (acid, pH 6.5-7.5) or glyceryl monothioglycolate, then neutralized to reform disulfide bonds.

Test curls determine processing time. Do not perm hair that has been bleached, relaxed within the prior weeks, or has low elasticity; a strand test and porosity check are required first.

Skin layers: epidermis (stratum corneum, granulosum, spinosum, basale), dermis (collagen, elastin, sebaceous and sweat glands, hair follicles), and subcutaneous layer (fat and connective tissue).

Skin types: normal, dry (alipidic), oily (sebaceous), combination, and sensitive. Fitzpatrick I-VI rates sun response and guides treatment intensity and product selection.

Cleansing sequence: makeup removal, cleanser, exfoliant, toner, treatment serum, moisturizer, sunscreen. Exfoliants split into physical (scrubs) and chemical (AHA glycolic/lactic, BHA salicylic).

AHA exfoliants work on the surface and are water-soluble; BHA (salicylic) is oil-soluble and penetrates pores, so it suits oily and acne-prone skin. Both require sun protection afterward.

Facial massage movements: effleurage (gliding), petrissage (kneading), tapotement (tapping), vibration, and friction. Direction follows muscle and lymph flow toward the lymph nodes.

Extraction is performed only on pustules and comedones after softening with steam; never extract inflamed cysts, and never use metal tools on inflamed acne.

Contraindications to facial services include open lesions, recent chemical peels, sunburn, active herpes, and use of isotretinoin (Accutane) within the past 6-12 months.

Waxing: test temperature on the inner wrist; apply in the direction of hair growth and remove against it, holding skin taut. Do not wax over varicose veins, moles, or irritated skin.

Product pH for skin: cleansers near 5.5, toners 4.5-5.5, and professional peels 2-4. Always patch test and document allergies before a chemical exfoliation.

Nail anatomy: nail plate (keratin), nail bed, matrix (growth area), lunula (visible matrix), cuticle, eponychium (living skin at base), hyponychium (under the free edge), and sidewalls.

Nail grows about 1/8 inch (0.1 mm) per month; fingernails replace in 4-6 months, toenails in 9-12 months. Growth slows with age and in cold weather.

Nail shapes: square, squoval, round, oval, and pointed. Shape follows the natural free edge and the client's lifestyle; file in one direction to avoid splitting.

Nail disorders: onychomycosis (fungal), paronychia (bacterial infection of surrounding tissue), onycholysis (lifting), onychorrhexis (splitting), and leukonychia (white spots).

Contraindications for service: inflamed, swollen, or pus-filled tissue, unexplained discoloration, and fungal infection. Refer to a physician; do not treat.

Manicure sequence: shape, soak, cuticle care with a pusher and nippers only on dead tissue, massage, base coat, polish, top coat. Never cut living tissue or use a credo blade on the nail plate.

Pedicure adds callus reduction with a paddle or pumice and requires a footbath sanitized between clients; diabetic clients need physician clearance and no sharp implements.

Sanitation: implements are washed with soap, dried, then immersed in EPA-registered hospital-grade disinfectant for the label contact time (commonly 10 minutes); porous items like buffers and orange sticks are single-use.

Acrylics and gels: monomer plus polymer forms acrylic; UV/LED cures gel. Do not apply over infected or damaged nail plates, and follow manufacturer ratios to avoid overexposure.

Cells are the basic unit; tissues are groups of similar cells (epithelial, connective, nerve, muscle); organs are groups of tissues performing a function; systems are groups of organs.

Skeletal system: 206 bones in the adult. The skull has 8 cranial and 14 facial bones. The hyoid is the only bone not joined to another bone.

Muscles of the face: frontalis (forehead), temporalis (temple), masseter (chewing), orbicularis oculi (eye closure), orbicularis oris (lip movement), and buccinator (cheek).

Muscles of the neck and shoulders: sternocleidomastoid (rotates head), trapezius (shoulder movement), platysma (lower jaw and neck).

Circulatory system: the heart has four chambers; arteries carry blood away from the heart, veins return it. The common carotid artery supplies the head and face; pressure is never applied there.

Nervous system: the brain, spinal cord, and nerves. The trifacial (trigeminal) nerve is the chief sensory nerve of the face; the facial nerve (seventh cranial) controls facial expression.

Integumentary system: skin, hair, and nails. It protects, regulates temperature, excretes, and senses. The dermis holds nerves, blood vessels, and glands.

Lymphatic system: lymph nodes filter and return fluid. Nodes in the neck and under the jaw are near service areas; do not massage over swollen nodes.

Endocrine and digestive relevance: hormones influence skin and hair (thyroid affects hair growth), and nutrition (protein, iron, B vitamins) affects nail and hair quality.

Definitions: cleaning removes visible soil; sanitizing reduces germs to a safe level; disinfecting kills most pathogens on hard surfaces; sterilization destroys all microbial life including spores.

Disinfection is the standard for salon implements. Use an EPA-registered hospital-grade disinfectant with tuberculocidal or bactericidal, fungicidal, and virucidal claims at the label dilution and contact time.

Sterilization requires an autoclave or dry heat sterilizer and is used for items that break the skin; it is not the routine requirement for standard manicure implements.

Porous items (buffers, cotton, orange wood sticks, nail files if not disinfectable) are single-use and discarded. Nonporous metal implements are washed, disinfected, and stored in a clean closed container.

Blood and body fluid spills: wear gloves, absorb with a disposable towel, clean with soap and water, then disinfect with an EPA-registered tuberculocidal product following the label contact time.

Hand washing is the single most effective infection control measure: at least 20 seconds with soap and warm water, before and after each client and after removing gloves.

Electrical safety: do not use appliances near water, keep cords untangled, unplug by the plug not the cord, and check for UL listing. Fire safety: store flammable products away from heat, keep a fire extinguisher accessible.

Material Safety Data Sheets (SDS) must be available for every chemical product used, and products must be labeled and stored with original labels; follow state rules for posting licenses and inspection records.

Maine cosmetology is regulated by the Maine Board of Barbering and Cosmetology within the Department of Professional and Financial Regulation, Office of Professional and Occupational Regulation (OPOR).

The license types include cosmetologist, barber, aesthetician, nail technician, limited license categories, and salon/shop licenses. Each has its own scope of practice; working outside the license scope is a violation.

Licensure requires completing a board-approved program (commonly 1,500 hours for cosmetology), passing the state theory and practical exams, and submitting an application with fees and background information.

License renewal is biennial; continuing education and renewal cycles follow board rule, and a lapsed license may not practice until reinstated. Verify current hours and fees on the Board's website.

Salons must hold a current shop license, display the license and individual licenses in a visible place, and post required notices such as the consumer complaint process.

Infection control rules require an EPA-registered hospital-grade disinfectant for implements, clean and dirty storage separation, single-use porous items, and hand washing between clients.

The Board investigates complaints and may impose sanctions including fines, probation, suspension, or revocation for unsanitary practice, unlicensed practice, or misrepresentation.

All rules and statute citations must be verified against the current Maine Board of Barbering and Cosmetology rules and 10 MRSA chapter 13; requirements change and the Board website is authoritative.

Advertising and services must be truthful; practitioners may not diagnose or treat disease, and clients with suspected infections or infestations must be referred to a physician.

Hair is roughly 90% keratin protein; the cortex holds pigment and moisture, the medulla is the soft central core, and the cuticle is the outer overlapping scale layer that determines porosity.

pH scale runs 0-14; hair and skin sit near pH 4.5-5.5. Products above pH 7 swell the cuticle; products at or below pH 5.5 tighten it and increase shine.

Cortex bonds: disulfide (broken by relaxers and perms), salt (broken by water and reformed on drying), hydrogen (broken by water or heat and reset by blow-drying), plus peptide and van der Waals bonds.

Porosity test: spray water on a strand. Slow absorption and beading = low porosity; rapid absorption and quick drying = high porosity; even absorption = normal porosity.

Elasticity test: stretch a wet strand. Normal hair stretches 50% of its length and returns; low elasticity snaps or stays stretched, indicating damage and limiting chemical services.

Density is strands per square inch (thin, medium, thick); texture is strand diameter (fine, medium, coarse). Fine hair processes faster and holds less volume.

Shampoo surfactants lift oil; conditioner's fatty alcohols and cationic quaternary compounds smooth the cuticle and reduce static. Clarifying shampoo removes buildup but is not for daily use.

Thermal styling: blow-dryer barrel temperature rises with wattage; curling irons run 250-450°F and flat irons 300-450°F. Wet-to-dry tools and wet hair should stay below 300°F to limit bubble hair damage.

Wet styling uses gel, mousse, and setting lotion; dry styling uses pomade, wax, and hairspray. Waving lotion is applied to damp hair and dried under a hood for wet sets.

Four basic cuts: blunt (zero elevation, 0°), graduated (45° elevation, stacked), layered (90° elevation), and long-layered (180° elevation).

Elevation is the angle the hair is held from the head: 0° builds weight, 45° builds stacked volume, 90° creates uniform layers, 180° removes the most weight.

Guidelines: stationary guide does not move and creates a solid shape; traveling guide moves with each section and follows the head form.

Cutting over the fingers builds length and weight; cutting inside the fingers (on the palm) removes more length and softens weight lines.

Cross-checking cuts the same section at a perpendicular angle to verify balance and symmetry; it is standard on every finished haircut.

Section sizes: subsections no wider than the blade, no thicker than the finger depth, so tension and control stay consistent.

Clipper guards: #1 = 1/8 inch, #2 = 1/4 inch, #3 = 3/8 inch, #4 = 1/2 inch. Blending from short to long requires cutting against the growth pattern.

Texturizing tools: thinning shears remove bulk without changing length; razor cutting softens ends but is avoided on fine or curly hair; notching and slithering create mobility.

Dry cutting reveals the true length and is used for curly hair, fringes, and precision finishing; wet cutting gives cleaner lines but shrinks up 1/2 inch on curls.

Level system 1-10: 1 is black, 5 is light brown, 7 is medium blonde, 10 is lightest blonde. Color is described by level plus tone (ash, gold, beige, red, copper).

Developer volume to lift: 10 vol lifts 1 level, 20 vol lifts 2, 30 vol lifts 3, 40 vol lifts 4. Higher volume also means more lightening and more damage; 40 vol is not used on the scalp.

Permanent color deposits and lifts by opening the cuticle with ammonia or MEA and oxidizing melanin; it requires a patch test 24-48 hours before the first application and a strand test.

Semipermanent color uses no ammonia and low-volume developer, deposits only, fades over 4-6 shampoos, and cannot lighten. Demipermanent (acid) color is deposit-only with low-lift capability.

The law of color: primary colors are red, yellow, blue; secondary are orange, green, violet; complementary pairs neutralize each other (blue cancels orange, violet cancels yellow, green cancels red).

Relaxer strength: sodium hydroxide (lye, pH 12-14, no mixing) versus guanidine (no-lye, pH 9-10, mixed with activator). Base relaxers sit on the scalp; no-base relaxers require a protective base cream.

Relaxer timing: apply to the most resistant area last, smooth only 5-10 minutes total, rinse thoroughly, and neutralize with shampoo at pH 4.5-5.5 to stop the chemical action and restore pH.

Perm wrapping: 9 sections are standard; hair is wrapped wet with end papers, processed with ammonium thioglycolate (acid, pH 6.5-7.5) or glyceryl monothioglycolate, then neutralized to reform disulfide bonds.

Test curls determine processing time. Do not perm hair that has been bleached, relaxed within the prior weeks, or has low elasticity; a strand test and porosity check are required first.

Skin layers: epidermis (stratum corneum, granulosum, spinosum, basale), dermis (collagen, elastin, sebaceous and sweat glands, hair follicles), and subcutaneous layer (fat and connective tissue).

Skin types: normal, dry (alipidic), oily (sebaceous), combination, and sensitive. Fitzpatrick I-VI rates sun response and guides treatment intensity and product selection.

Cleansing sequence: makeup removal, cleanser, exfoliant, toner, treatment serum, moisturizer, sunscreen. Exfoliants split into physical (scrubs) and chemical (AHA glycolic/lactic, BHA salicylic).

AHA exfoliants work on the surface and are water-soluble; BHA (salicylic) is oil-soluble and penetrates pores, so it suits oily and acne-prone skin. Both require sun protection afterward.

Facial massage movements: effleurage (gliding), petrissage (kneading), tapotement (tapping), vibration, and friction. Direction follows muscle and lymph flow toward the lymph nodes.

Extraction is performed only on pustules and comedones after softening with steam; never extract inflamed cysts, and never use metal tools on inflamed acne.

Contraindications to facial services include open lesions, recent chemical peels, sunburn, active herpes, and use of isotretinoin (Accutane) within the past 6-12 months.

Waxing: test temperature on the inner wrist; apply in the direction of hair growth and remove against it, holding skin taut. Do not wax over varicose veins, moles, or irritated skin.

Product pH for skin: cleansers near 5.5, toners 4.5-5.5, and professional peels 2-4. Always patch test and document allergies before a chemical exfoliation.

Nail anatomy: nail plate (keratin), nail bed, matrix (growth area), lunula (visible matrix), cuticle, eponychium (living skin at base), hyponychium (under the free edge), and sidewalls.

Nail grows about 1/8 inch (0.1 mm) per month; fingernails replace in 4-6 months, toenails in 9-12 months. Growth slows with age and in cold weather.

Nail shapes: square, squoval, round, oval, and pointed. Shape follows the natural free edge and the client's lifestyle; file in one direction to avoid splitting.

Nail disorders: onychomycosis (fungal), paronychia (bacterial infection of surrounding tissue), onycholysis (lifting), onychorrhexis (splitting), and leukonychia (white spots).

Contraindications for service: inflamed, swollen, or pus-filled tissue, unexplained discoloration, and fungal infection. Refer to a physician; do not treat.

Manicure sequence: shape, soak, cuticle care with a pusher and nippers only on dead tissue, massage, base coat, polish, top coat. Never cut living tissue or use a credo blade on the nail plate.

Pedicure adds callus reduction with a paddle or pumice and requires a footbath sanitized between clients; diabetic clients need physician clearance and no sharp implements.

Sanitation: implements are washed with soap, dried, then immersed in EPA-registered hospital-grade disinfectant for the label contact time (commonly 10 minutes); porous items like buffers and orange sticks are single-use.

Acrylics and gels: monomer plus polymer forms acrylic; UV/LED cures gel. Do not apply over infected or damaged nail plates, and follow manufacturer ratios to avoid overexposure.

Cells are the basic unit; tissues are groups of similar cells (epithelial, connective, nerve, muscle); organs are groups of tissues performing a function; systems are groups of organs.

Skeletal system: 206 bones in the adult. The skull has 8 cranial and 14 facial bones. The hyoid is the only bone not joined to another bone.

Muscles of the face: frontalis (forehead), temporalis (temple), masseter (chewing), orbicularis oculi (eye closure), orbicularis oris (lip movement), and buccinator (cheek).

Muscles of the neck and shoulders: sternocleidomastoid (rotates head), trapezius (shoulder movement), platysma (lower jaw and neck).

Circulatory system: the heart has four chambers; arteries carry blood away from the heart, veins return it. The common carotid artery supplies the head and face; pressure is never applied there.

Nervous system: the brain, spinal cord, and nerves. The trifacial (trigeminal) nerve is the chief sensory nerve of the face; the facial nerve (seventh cranial) controls facial expression.

Integumentary system: skin, hair, and nails. It protects, regulates temperature, excretes, and senses. The dermis holds nerves, blood vessels, and glands.

Lymphatic system: lymph nodes filter and return fluid. Nodes in the neck and under the jaw are near service areas; do not massage over swollen nodes.

Endocrine and digestive relevance: hormones influence skin and hair (thyroid affects hair growth), and nutrition (protein, iron, B vitamins) affects nail and hair quality.

Definitions: cleaning removes visible soil; sanitizing reduces germs to a safe level; disinfecting kills most pathogens on hard surfaces; sterilization destroys all microbial life including spores.

Disinfection is the standard for salon implements. Use an EPA-registered hospital-grade disinfectant with tuberculocidal or bactericidal, fungicidal, and virucidal claims at the label dilution and contact time.

Sterilization requires an autoclave or dry heat sterilizer and is used for items that break the skin; it is not the routine requirement for standard manicure implements.

Porous items (buffers, cotton, orange wood sticks, nail files if not disinfectable) are single-use and discarded. Nonporous metal implements are washed, disinfected, and stored in a clean closed container.

Blood and body fluid spills: wear gloves, absorb with a disposable towel, clean with soap and water, then disinfect with an EPA-registered tuberculocidal product following the label contact time.

Hand washing is the single most effective infection control measure: at least 20 seconds with soap and warm water, before and after each client and after removing gloves.

Electrical safety: do not use appliances near water, keep cords untangled, unplug by the plug not the cord, and check for UL listing. Fire safety: store flammable products away from heat, keep a fire extinguisher accessible.

Material Safety Data Sheets (SDS) must be available for every chemical product used, and products must be labeled and stored with original labels; follow state rules for posting licenses and inspection records.

Maine cosmetology is regulated by the Maine Board of Barbering and Cosmetology within the Department of Professional and Financial Regulation, Office of Professional and Occupational Regulation (OPOR).

The license types include cosmetologist, barber, aesthetician, nail technician, limited license categories, and salon/shop licenses. Each has its own scope of practice; working outside the license scope is a violation.

Licensure requires completing a board-approved program (commonly 1,500 hours for cosmetology), passing the state theory and practical exams, and submitting an application with fees and background information.

License renewal is biennial; continuing education and renewal cycles follow board rule, and a lapsed license may not practice until reinstated. Verify current hours and fees on the Board's website.

Salons must hold a current shop license, display the license and individual licenses in a visible place, and post required notices such as the consumer complaint process.

Infection control rules require an EPA-registered hospital-grade disinfectant for implements, clean and dirty storage separation, single-use porous items, and hand washing between clients.

The Board investigates complaints and may impose sanctions including fines, probation, suspension, or revocation for unsanitary practice, unlicensed practice, or misrepresentation.

All rules and statute citations must be verified against the current Maine Board of Barbering and Cosmetology rules and 10 MRSA chapter 13; requirements change and the Board website is authoritative.

Advertising and services must be truthful; practitioners may not diagnose or treat disease, and clients with suspected infections or infestations must be referred to a physician.