Hair Coloring and Chemical Texture Services
What this domain tests
Coloring and chemical texture items test color theory, developer selection, application safety, relaxer chemistry, and neutralization.
Core concepts
- Levels: 1 is black, 10 is lightest blonde. Identify the starting level and the target level before choosing a formula.
- Law of color: primary colors mix to make secondary colors; the complementary color neutralizes an unwanted undertone.
- Developer: 10 volume deposits; 20 volume lifts about 1–2 levels; 30 volume lifts about 2–3; 40 volume lifts about 3–4. Developer volume affects lift, not the clock; processing time is set by the manufacturer.
- Testing: perform a patch test before aniline-derivative color and a strand test to predict timing and result.
- Relaxers: hydroxide relaxers have a high pH and straighten permanently; thio relaxers work at a lower pH. Neutralizing shampoo lowers pH and helps rebuild disulfide bonds.
- Perms: wrap, process, test curl, rinse, neutralize. Overprocessing causes breakage.
Worked example
A client has 2 inches of new growth and previously relaxed ends. Apply relaxer only to the new growth, keeping product off the previously relaxed hair. Process according to the manufacturer, rinse thoroughly, then neutralize until the indicator shows neutral. Do not pull relaxer through the ends.
Traps that cost marks
Do not use higher-volume developer to speed up processing. Do not overlap relaxer on relaxed hair. Do not skip neutralization. Do not promise a color result on a previously colored or damaged strand without a strand test.