ME Esthetician cheat sheet

Pathogen categories: bacteria (Staphylococcus, Streptococcus, Pseudomonas), fungi (tinea), viruses (herpes simplex, HPV, hepatitis B), parasites (pediculosis).

Standard precautions apply to every client: handwashing before and after service, gloves when contact with blood, body fluids, or non-intact skin is possible.

Disinfectants must be EPA-registered hospital-grade with a label claim against HIV and HBV; follow label contact time (often 10 minutes) - no shorter soak is acceptable.

Porous items (cotton, wooden sticks, sponges, nail files) are single-use and discarded; nonporous implements (metal extractors, tweezers) are cleaned, then disinfected.

Sterilization (autoclave, 121–134 °C pressurized steam) is required only for items that penetrate skin or contact blood; disinfection is not sterilization.

Implement storage: clean and disinfected tools kept in closed, labeled containers separate from soiled items; never carry tools loose in a pocket.

Bloodborne exposure protocol: stop service, wash the area with soap and water, report to supervisor, seek medical evaluation; do not attempt to squeeze or bleed the wound.

Sanitation vs. disinfection vs. sterilization: sanitation reduces count on surfaces, disinfection destroys most pathogens on nonporous items, sterilization destroys all microbial life including spores.

Contraindication triggers for service refusal: fever, active cough, weeping lesions, purulent drainage, lice, or known communicable skin infection.

Epidermis layers from deep to superficial: stratum basale, spinosum, granulosum, lucidum (palms/soles only), corneum.

Keratinization: basal cells divide and migrate upward over roughly 28 days, flattening and filling with keratin before shedding from the corneum.

Dermis contains collagen (strength), elastin (recoil), hyaluronic acid and glycosaminoglycans (hydration), plus blood vessels, nerves, glands, and hair follicles.

Hypodermis (subcutaneous) is adipose and connective tissue; it insulates, cushions, and anchors skin to underlying structures.

Epidermis is avascular; it is nourished by diffusion from dermal capillaries, which is why surface injuries heal without scarring.

Melanocytes in the basal layer produce melanin transferred to keratinocytes via melanosomes; melanin absorbs UV and determines skin and hair color.

Sebaceous glands secrete sebum, are largest on the face, scalp, and upper back, and are stimulated by androgens; eccrine sweat glands regulate temperature.

Skin barrier (acid mantle) sits near pH 4.5–5.5 and depends on corneocytes, intercellular lipids, and natural moisturizing factor.

Sensory receptors: Meissner corpuscles (light touch), Pacinian corpuscles (pressure/vibration), free nerve endings (pain, temperature).

Fitzpatrick phototypes I–VI predict UV response: I always burns/never tans; VI rarely burns; higher types carry greater risk of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.

Baumann/classic typing combines four axes: oily vs. dry, sensitive vs. resistant, pigmented vs. nonpigmented, wrinkled vs. tight.

Skin analysis sequence: cleanse, observe under magnification and good light, palpate for texture and oiliness, then assess pores, hydration, and lesions.

Oily skin shows enlarged pores, shine across the T-zone or whole face, and comedones; dry skin shows flaking, tightness, and fine lines from lack of lipids.

Dehydrated skin lacks water (dull, tight, fine lines) and can coexist with oily skin - dehydration is a condition, not a skin type.

Sensitive skin reacts with erythema, stinging, or burning to products; barrier impairment and rosacea are common causes and require patch testing.

Lesion vocabulary: primary lesions (macule, papule, pustule, vesicle, nodule, wheal) versus secondary (scale, crust, excoriation, scar, fissure).

Asymmetry, border irregularity, color variation, diameter >6 mm, and evolving change (ABCDE) are referral triggers for suspected melanoma.

Skin type can shift with age, hormones, season, and medication; re-analyze at each visit rather than relying on the prior record.

Intake form captures medications, allergies, pregnancy, skin conditions, recent cosmetic procedures, and prior reactions; consent is documented before service.

Absolute contraindications for facial and waxing services: active infection, open or weeping lesions, recent chemical peel or laser within the healing window, and known product allergy.

Isotretinoin (Accutane) use within the past 6–12 months contraindicates waxing and aggressive exfoliation because skin is fragile and heals poorly.

Pregnancy: avoid retinoids, high-percentage salicylic acid, and certain essential oils; many estheticians defer aggressive treatments and document the decision.

Retinoids, AHA/BHA, and recent dermabrasion thin the stratum corneum; waxing or strong exfoliation over these areas can strip skin - wait the recommended interval.

Medical referral triggers: changing moles, suspected skin cancer, cystic acne requiring prescription care, uncontrolled diabetes with slow healing, and active herpes outbreak.

Patch test 24–48 hours before first use of a new tint, wax, or chemical product; record the result in the client file.

Scope of practice: estheticians do not diagnose or prescribe; findings are described and referred, never labeled as a medical condition.

Consultation documentation includes what was discussed, products used, consent, and any refusal - contemporaneous notes protect both client and licensee.

Cleansing order: makeup removal (oil or micellar), then a pH-appropriate cleanser; double cleansing suits oily or makeup-heavy skin.

Surfactant chemistry: cleansers work because amphiphilic molecules lift oil and debris into water; harsh surfactants (high-foam sulfates) can strip the barrier.

Physical (mechanical) exfoliation uses scrubs, brushes, or enzymes; chemical exfoliation uses AHAs (glycolic, lactic) or BHAs (salicylic) to loosen corneocyte bonds.

AHA concentration and pH determine strength; professional peels are buffered, timed, and neutralized, and never applied over compromised skin.

Salicylic acid is lipid-soluble, penetrates pores, and suits oily/acne-prone skin; avoid in aspirin allergy and pregnancy at high percentages.

Extraction is performed only on visible comedones after softening with warm steam or compresses; pustules and inflamed lesions are not extracted.

Facial massage and mask steps follow extractions; masks are chosen by function - clay for oil control, hydrating gels for dehydration, calming masks for sensitivity.

Treatment room setup: sanitized bed, clean linens per client, covered trolley, labeled products, and a timer for peel and mask steps.

Post-treatment care includes sun protection, barrier moisturizer, and instructions to avoid heat, exfoliation, and retinoids for 24–48 hours.

Effleurage: gliding strokes following muscle and lymph direction; used to open and close a facial massage and to spread product.

Petrissage: kneading and compression of muscle and soft tissue; applied to the jaw, cheeks, and temples with light pressure on the face.

Tapotement: rhythmic tapping or percussion with fingertips; stimulates circulation and is avoided on sensitive or couperose skin.

Friction and vibration: small circular or oscillating movements that warm tissue and release tension; vibration is brief and light on the face.

Lymphatic drainage uses light, directional strokes toward cervical nodes (preauricular, submandibular, supraclavicular) to reduce puffiness.

Direction of facial massage is generally upward and outward along muscle fiber direction; pressure is always toward the origin of the muscle, never dragging skin down.

Contraindications for massage: acute inflammation, active acne cysts, recent surgery, thrombosis, uncontrolled hypertension, and skin infection.

Pressure calibration: facial tissue tolerates far less force than the back; the esthetician monitors client feedback and visible erythema throughout.

Hand hygiene and warmed product precede contact; massage is performed with clean hands and no jewelry that could scratch skin.

Hair growth cycle: anagen (active growth, best waxing target), catagen (transition), telogen (resting); hair must be at least ¼ inch (about 6 mm) for wax to grip.

Wax temperature must be tested on the inner wrist or back of the hand before application; overheated wax causes burns and hyperpigmentation.

Hard wax is applied thick and removed without strips - suited to sensitive areas; soft wax requires strips and is used on larger areas.

Wax is applied in the direction of hair growth and removed against it, holding skin taut to reduce trauma.

Contraindications: isotretinoin use, recent chemical peel or laser, active infection, sunburn, varicose veins over the area, and use of blood thinners (physician clearance).

Double-dipping a spatula contaminates the wax pot; use a fresh applicator each time or dispense single-use wax.

Post-wax care: soothing lotion, no heat, sun, friction, or tight clothing for 24 hours; exfoliate after 48 hours to prevent ingrowth.

Ingrown hair prevention includes regular gentle exfoliation and moisturizing; do not pick or squeeze ingrown hairs.

Tweezing suits small areas and isolated hairs; threading and sugaring are alternatives that also remove hair at the root.

Color wheel relationships: complementary colors sit opposite and neutralize; analogous colors sit adjacent and harmonize.

Undertone correction: green neutralizes redness, peach/orange corrects blue-purple bruising or dark circles, yellow brightens sallow tones, lavender corrects yellow.

Foundation shade matching is done on the jawline in natural light; test 2–3 shades and check the blend line, not the hand.

Fitzpatrick type guides foundation range and pigment selection; deeper skin needs richer, less ashy pigments to avoid a gray cast.

Face shapes and contouring: highlight raises, contour recedes; oval is balanced, round benefits from length at the sides, square from softening at the jaw.

Eyeshadow placement follows lid, crease, and brow bone; blending transitions prevent harsh lines and visible edges.

Lip and cheek color should harmonize with undertone - cool undertones suit blue-based pinks and berries, warm undertones suit coral and peach.

Sanitation in makeup: never double-dip mascara wands, sharpen pencils before use, and use disposable applicators or spatulas for creams.

Brow mapping uses three points: inner brow at the nostril line, arch at the iris line, tail at the outer corner of the eye.

pH scale 0–14: acids below 7, bases above 7; skin-friendly products sit near pH 4.5–5.5 to preserve the acid mantle.

Emulsion types: oil-in-water (light, quickly absorbed) versus water-in-oil (richer, occlusive); emulsifiers bridge the two phases.

Humectants (glycerin, hyaluronic acid, sorbitol) draw water; emollients (oils, esters, fatty alcohols) soften; occlusives (petrolatum, dimethicone) seal water in.

Antioxidants (vitamin C, vitamin E, ferulic acid) neutralize free radicals; vitamin C also inhibits tyrosinase for brightening but is unstable at high pH and in light.

Retinoids accelerate cell turnover and stimulate collagen; they cause photosensitivity and irritation, so use is paired with sunscreen and gradual introduction.

AHA exfoliation depends on molecule size, concentration, and pH: glycolic (smallest) penetrates fastest; lactic is gentler and more hydrating.

Sunscreen terms: SPF measures UVB protection; broad-spectrum covers UVA; PA or Boots Star ratings describe UVA. Reapply every two hours outdoors.

Fragrance and essential oils are common sensitizers; patch testing and fragrance-free options reduce reaction risk.

Preservatives (parabens, phenoxyethanol, benzyl alcohol) prevent microbial growth in water-containing products; anhydrous products need fewer preservatives.

Maine licenses estheticians through the State Board of Barbering and Cosmetology; practice without a current license is prohibited.

License renewal and continuing education requirements are set by Board rule; verify current cycle and hour requirements on the Board's official site before relying on them.

Scope of practice: estheticians cleanse, treat, and beautify skin and apply makeup; they do not diagnose, prescribe, or perform medical procedures.

Display of license and posting of required consumer information are conditions of lawful practice in a licensed establishment.

Sanitation standards for establishments and schools are set by Board rule, including disinfection protocols, waste handling, and handwashing facilities.

Advertising and title use must be truthful; claiming certification or affiliation that does not exist is a violation of professional ethics.

Confidentiality: client records, health information, and photographs are not disclosed without written consent.

Informed consent and refusal documentation: explain risks, obtain consent, and record any service declined for contraindication.

Professional boundaries: no service while impaired, no treatment outside training, and referral to a physician when findings exceed scope.

Pathogen categories: bacteria (Staphylococcus, Streptococcus, Pseudomonas), fungi (tinea), viruses (herpes simplex, HPV, hepatitis B), parasites (pediculosis).

Standard precautions apply to every client: handwashing before and after service, gloves when contact with blood, body fluids, or non-intact skin is possible.

Disinfectants must be EPA-registered hospital-grade with a label claim against HIV and HBV; follow label contact time (often 10 minutes) - no shorter soak is acceptable.

Porous items (cotton, wooden sticks, sponges, nail files) are single-use and discarded; nonporous implements (metal extractors, tweezers) are cleaned, then disinfected.

Sterilization (autoclave, 121–134 °C pressurized steam) is required only for items that penetrate skin or contact blood; disinfection is not sterilization.

Implement storage: clean and disinfected tools kept in closed, labeled containers separate from soiled items; never carry tools loose in a pocket.

Bloodborne exposure protocol: stop service, wash the area with soap and water, report to supervisor, seek medical evaluation; do not attempt to squeeze or bleed the wound.

Sanitation vs. disinfection vs. sterilization: sanitation reduces count on surfaces, disinfection destroys most pathogens on nonporous items, sterilization destroys all microbial life including spores.

Contraindication triggers for service refusal: fever, active cough, weeping lesions, purulent drainage, lice, or known communicable skin infection.

Epidermis layers from deep to superficial: stratum basale, spinosum, granulosum, lucidum (palms/soles only), corneum.

Keratinization: basal cells divide and migrate upward over roughly 28 days, flattening and filling with keratin before shedding from the corneum.

Dermis contains collagen (strength), elastin (recoil), hyaluronic acid and glycosaminoglycans (hydration), plus blood vessels, nerves, glands, and hair follicles.

Hypodermis (subcutaneous) is adipose and connective tissue; it insulates, cushions, and anchors skin to underlying structures.

Epidermis is avascular; it is nourished by diffusion from dermal capillaries, which is why surface injuries heal without scarring.

Melanocytes in the basal layer produce melanin transferred to keratinocytes via melanosomes; melanin absorbs UV and determines skin and hair color.

Sebaceous glands secrete sebum, are largest on the face, scalp, and upper back, and are stimulated by androgens; eccrine sweat glands regulate temperature.

Skin barrier (acid mantle) sits near pH 4.5–5.5 and depends on corneocytes, intercellular lipids, and natural moisturizing factor.

Sensory receptors: Meissner corpuscles (light touch), Pacinian corpuscles (pressure/vibration), free nerve endings (pain, temperature).

Fitzpatrick phototypes I–VI predict UV response: I always burns/never tans; VI rarely burns; higher types carry greater risk of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.

Baumann/classic typing combines four axes: oily vs. dry, sensitive vs. resistant, pigmented vs. nonpigmented, wrinkled vs. tight.

Skin analysis sequence: cleanse, observe under magnification and good light, palpate for texture and oiliness, then assess pores, hydration, and lesions.

Oily skin shows enlarged pores, shine across the T-zone or whole face, and comedones; dry skin shows flaking, tightness, and fine lines from lack of lipids.

Dehydrated skin lacks water (dull, tight, fine lines) and can coexist with oily skin - dehydration is a condition, not a skin type.

Sensitive skin reacts with erythema, stinging, or burning to products; barrier impairment and rosacea are common causes and require patch testing.

Lesion vocabulary: primary lesions (macule, papule, pustule, vesicle, nodule, wheal) versus secondary (scale, crust, excoriation, scar, fissure).

Asymmetry, border irregularity, color variation, diameter >6 mm, and evolving change (ABCDE) are referral triggers for suspected melanoma.

Skin type can shift with age, hormones, season, and medication; re-analyze at each visit rather than relying on the prior record.

Intake form captures medications, allergies, pregnancy, skin conditions, recent cosmetic procedures, and prior reactions; consent is documented before service.

Absolute contraindications for facial and waxing services: active infection, open or weeping lesions, recent chemical peel or laser within the healing window, and known product allergy.

Isotretinoin (Accutane) use within the past 6–12 months contraindicates waxing and aggressive exfoliation because skin is fragile and heals poorly.

Pregnancy: avoid retinoids, high-percentage salicylic acid, and certain essential oils; many estheticians defer aggressive treatments and document the decision.

Retinoids, AHA/BHA, and recent dermabrasion thin the stratum corneum; waxing or strong exfoliation over these areas can strip skin - wait the recommended interval.

Medical referral triggers: changing moles, suspected skin cancer, cystic acne requiring prescription care, uncontrolled diabetes with slow healing, and active herpes outbreak.

Patch test 24–48 hours before first use of a new tint, wax, or chemical product; record the result in the client file.

Scope of practice: estheticians do not diagnose or prescribe; findings are described and referred, never labeled as a medical condition.

Consultation documentation includes what was discussed, products used, consent, and any refusal - contemporaneous notes protect both client and licensee.

Cleansing order: makeup removal (oil or micellar), then a pH-appropriate cleanser; double cleansing suits oily or makeup-heavy skin.

Surfactant chemistry: cleansers work because amphiphilic molecules lift oil and debris into water; harsh surfactants (high-foam sulfates) can strip the barrier.

Physical (mechanical) exfoliation uses scrubs, brushes, or enzymes; chemical exfoliation uses AHAs (glycolic, lactic) or BHAs (salicylic) to loosen corneocyte bonds.

AHA concentration and pH determine strength; professional peels are buffered, timed, and neutralized, and never applied over compromised skin.

Salicylic acid is lipid-soluble, penetrates pores, and suits oily/acne-prone skin; avoid in aspirin allergy and pregnancy at high percentages.

Extraction is performed only on visible comedones after softening with warm steam or compresses; pustules and inflamed lesions are not extracted.

Facial massage and mask steps follow extractions; masks are chosen by function - clay for oil control, hydrating gels for dehydration, calming masks for sensitivity.

Treatment room setup: sanitized bed, clean linens per client, covered trolley, labeled products, and a timer for peel and mask steps.

Post-treatment care includes sun protection, barrier moisturizer, and instructions to avoid heat, exfoliation, and retinoids for 24–48 hours.

Effleurage: gliding strokes following muscle and lymph direction; used to open and close a facial massage and to spread product.

Petrissage: kneading and compression of muscle and soft tissue; applied to the jaw, cheeks, and temples with light pressure on the face.

Tapotement: rhythmic tapping or percussion with fingertips; stimulates circulation and is avoided on sensitive or couperose skin.

Friction and vibration: small circular or oscillating movements that warm tissue and release tension; vibration is brief and light on the face.

Lymphatic drainage uses light, directional strokes toward cervical nodes (preauricular, submandibular, supraclavicular) to reduce puffiness.

Direction of facial massage is generally upward and outward along muscle fiber direction; pressure is always toward the origin of the muscle, never dragging skin down.

Contraindications for massage: acute inflammation, active acne cysts, recent surgery, thrombosis, uncontrolled hypertension, and skin infection.

Pressure calibration: facial tissue tolerates far less force than the back; the esthetician monitors client feedback and visible erythema throughout.

Hand hygiene and warmed product precede contact; massage is performed with clean hands and no jewelry that could scratch skin.

Hair growth cycle: anagen (active growth, best waxing target), catagen (transition), telogen (resting); hair must be at least ¼ inch (about 6 mm) for wax to grip.

Wax temperature must be tested on the inner wrist or back of the hand before application; overheated wax causes burns and hyperpigmentation.

Hard wax is applied thick and removed without strips - suited to sensitive areas; soft wax requires strips and is used on larger areas.

Wax is applied in the direction of hair growth and removed against it, holding skin taut to reduce trauma.

Contraindications: isotretinoin use, recent chemical peel or laser, active infection, sunburn, varicose veins over the area, and use of blood thinners (physician clearance).

Double-dipping a spatula contaminates the wax pot; use a fresh applicator each time or dispense single-use wax.

Post-wax care: soothing lotion, no heat, sun, friction, or tight clothing for 24 hours; exfoliate after 48 hours to prevent ingrowth.

Ingrown hair prevention includes regular gentle exfoliation and moisturizing; do not pick or squeeze ingrown hairs.

Tweezing suits small areas and isolated hairs; threading and sugaring are alternatives that also remove hair at the root.

Color wheel relationships: complementary colors sit opposite and neutralize; analogous colors sit adjacent and harmonize.

Undertone correction: green neutralizes redness, peach/orange corrects blue-purple bruising or dark circles, yellow brightens sallow tones, lavender corrects yellow.

Foundation shade matching is done on the jawline in natural light; test 2–3 shades and check the blend line, not the hand.

Fitzpatrick type guides foundation range and pigment selection; deeper skin needs richer, less ashy pigments to avoid a gray cast.

Face shapes and contouring: highlight raises, contour recedes; oval is balanced, round benefits from length at the sides, square from softening at the jaw.

Eyeshadow placement follows lid, crease, and brow bone; blending transitions prevent harsh lines and visible edges.

Lip and cheek color should harmonize with undertone - cool undertones suit blue-based pinks and berries, warm undertones suit coral and peach.

Sanitation in makeup: never double-dip mascara wands, sharpen pencils before use, and use disposable applicators or spatulas for creams.

Brow mapping uses three points: inner brow at the nostril line, arch at the iris line, tail at the outer corner of the eye.

pH scale 0–14: acids below 7, bases above 7; skin-friendly products sit near pH 4.5–5.5 to preserve the acid mantle.

Emulsion types: oil-in-water (light, quickly absorbed) versus water-in-oil (richer, occlusive); emulsifiers bridge the two phases.

Humectants (glycerin, hyaluronic acid, sorbitol) draw water; emollients (oils, esters, fatty alcohols) soften; occlusives (petrolatum, dimethicone) seal water in.

Antioxidants (vitamin C, vitamin E, ferulic acid) neutralize free radicals; vitamin C also inhibits tyrosinase for brightening but is unstable at high pH and in light.

Retinoids accelerate cell turnover and stimulate collagen; they cause photosensitivity and irritation, so use is paired with sunscreen and gradual introduction.

AHA exfoliation depends on molecule size, concentration, and pH: glycolic (smallest) penetrates fastest; lactic is gentler and more hydrating.

Sunscreen terms: SPF measures UVB protection; broad-spectrum covers UVA; PA or Boots Star ratings describe UVA. Reapply every two hours outdoors.

Fragrance and essential oils are common sensitizers; patch testing and fragrance-free options reduce reaction risk.

Preservatives (parabens, phenoxyethanol, benzyl alcohol) prevent microbial growth in water-containing products; anhydrous products need fewer preservatives.

Maine licenses estheticians through the State Board of Barbering and Cosmetology; practice without a current license is prohibited.

License renewal and continuing education requirements are set by Board rule; verify current cycle and hour requirements on the Board's official site before relying on them.

Scope of practice: estheticians cleanse, treat, and beautify skin and apply makeup; they do not diagnose, prescribe, or perform medical procedures.

Display of license and posting of required consumer information are conditions of lawful practice in a licensed establishment.

Sanitation standards for establishments and schools are set by Board rule, including disinfection protocols, waste handling, and handwashing facilities.

Advertising and title use must be truthful; claiming certification or affiliation that does not exist is a violation of professional ethics.

Confidentiality: client records, health information, and photographs are not disclosed without written consent.

Informed consent and refusal documentation: explain risks, obtain consent, and record any service declined for contraindication.

Professional boundaries: no service while impaired, no treatment outside training, and referral to a physician when findings exceed scope.

Pathogen categories: bacteria (Staphylococcus, Streptococcus, Pseudomonas), fungi (tinea), viruses (herpes simplex, HPV, hepatitis B), parasites (pediculosis).

Standard precautions apply to every client: handwashing before and after service, gloves when contact with blood, body fluids, or non-intact skin is possible.

Disinfectants must be EPA-registered hospital-grade with a label claim against HIV and HBV; follow label contact time (often 10 minutes) - no shorter soak is acceptable.

Porous items (cotton, wooden sticks, sponges, nail files) are single-use and discarded; nonporous implements (metal extractors, tweezers) are cleaned, then disinfected.

Sterilization (autoclave, 121–134 °C pressurized steam) is required only for items that penetrate skin or contact blood; disinfection is not sterilization.

Implement storage: clean and disinfected tools kept in closed, labeled containers separate from soiled items; never carry tools loose in a pocket.

Bloodborne exposure protocol: stop service, wash the area with soap and water, report to supervisor, seek medical evaluation; do not attempt to squeeze or bleed the wound.

Sanitation vs. disinfection vs. sterilization: sanitation reduces count on surfaces, disinfection destroys most pathogens on nonporous items, sterilization destroys all microbial life including spores.

Contraindication triggers for service refusal: fever, active cough, weeping lesions, purulent drainage, lice, or known communicable skin infection.

Epidermis layers from deep to superficial: stratum basale, spinosum, granulosum, lucidum (palms/soles only), corneum.

Keratinization: basal cells divide and migrate upward over roughly 28 days, flattening and filling with keratin before shedding from the corneum.

Dermis contains collagen (strength), elastin (recoil), hyaluronic acid and glycosaminoglycans (hydration), plus blood vessels, nerves, glands, and hair follicles.

Hypodermis (subcutaneous) is adipose and connective tissue; it insulates, cushions, and anchors skin to underlying structures.

Epidermis is avascular; it is nourished by diffusion from dermal capillaries, which is why surface injuries heal without scarring.

Melanocytes in the basal layer produce melanin transferred to keratinocytes via melanosomes; melanin absorbs UV and determines skin and hair color.

Sebaceous glands secrete sebum, are largest on the face, scalp, and upper back, and are stimulated by androgens; eccrine sweat glands regulate temperature.

Skin barrier (acid mantle) sits near pH 4.5–5.5 and depends on corneocytes, intercellular lipids, and natural moisturizing factor.

Sensory receptors: Meissner corpuscles (light touch), Pacinian corpuscles (pressure/vibration), free nerve endings (pain, temperature).

Fitzpatrick phototypes I–VI predict UV response: I always burns/never tans; VI rarely burns; higher types carry greater risk of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.

Baumann/classic typing combines four axes: oily vs. dry, sensitive vs. resistant, pigmented vs. nonpigmented, wrinkled vs. tight.

Skin analysis sequence: cleanse, observe under magnification and good light, palpate for texture and oiliness, then assess pores, hydration, and lesions.

Oily skin shows enlarged pores, shine across the T-zone or whole face, and comedones; dry skin shows flaking, tightness, and fine lines from lack of lipids.

Dehydrated skin lacks water (dull, tight, fine lines) and can coexist with oily skin - dehydration is a condition, not a skin type.

Sensitive skin reacts with erythema, stinging, or burning to products; barrier impairment and rosacea are common causes and require patch testing.

Lesion vocabulary: primary lesions (macule, papule, pustule, vesicle, nodule, wheal) versus secondary (scale, crust, excoriation, scar, fissure).

Asymmetry, border irregularity, color variation, diameter >6 mm, and evolving change (ABCDE) are referral triggers for suspected melanoma.

Skin type can shift with age, hormones, season, and medication; re-analyze at each visit rather than relying on the prior record.

Intake form captures medications, allergies, pregnancy, skin conditions, recent cosmetic procedures, and prior reactions; consent is documented before service.

Absolute contraindications for facial and waxing services: active infection, open or weeping lesions, recent chemical peel or laser within the healing window, and known product allergy.

Isotretinoin (Accutane) use within the past 6–12 months contraindicates waxing and aggressive exfoliation because skin is fragile and heals poorly.

Pregnancy: avoid retinoids, high-percentage salicylic acid, and certain essential oils; many estheticians defer aggressive treatments and document the decision.

Retinoids, AHA/BHA, and recent dermabrasion thin the stratum corneum; waxing or strong exfoliation over these areas can strip skin - wait the recommended interval.

Medical referral triggers: changing moles, suspected skin cancer, cystic acne requiring prescription care, uncontrolled diabetes with slow healing, and active herpes outbreak.

Patch test 24–48 hours before first use of a new tint, wax, or chemical product; record the result in the client file.

Scope of practice: estheticians do not diagnose or prescribe; findings are described and referred, never labeled as a medical condition.

Consultation documentation includes what was discussed, products used, consent, and any refusal - contemporaneous notes protect both client and licensee.

Cleansing order: makeup removal (oil or micellar), then a pH-appropriate cleanser; double cleansing suits oily or makeup-heavy skin.

Surfactant chemistry: cleansers work because amphiphilic molecules lift oil and debris into water; harsh surfactants (high-foam sulfates) can strip the barrier.

Physical (mechanical) exfoliation uses scrubs, brushes, or enzymes; chemical exfoliation uses AHAs (glycolic, lactic) or BHAs (salicylic) to loosen corneocyte bonds.

AHA concentration and pH determine strength; professional peels are buffered, timed, and neutralized, and never applied over compromised skin.

Salicylic acid is lipid-soluble, penetrates pores, and suits oily/acne-prone skin; avoid in aspirin allergy and pregnancy at high percentages.

Extraction is performed only on visible comedones after softening with warm steam or compresses; pustules and inflamed lesions are not extracted.

Facial massage and mask steps follow extractions; masks are chosen by function - clay for oil control, hydrating gels for dehydration, calming masks for sensitivity.

Treatment room setup: sanitized bed, clean linens per client, covered trolley, labeled products, and a timer for peel and mask steps.

Post-treatment care includes sun protection, barrier moisturizer, and instructions to avoid heat, exfoliation, and retinoids for 24–48 hours.

Effleurage: gliding strokes following muscle and lymph direction; used to open and close a facial massage and to spread product.

Petrissage: kneading and compression of muscle and soft tissue; applied to the jaw, cheeks, and temples with light pressure on the face.

Tapotement: rhythmic tapping or percussion with fingertips; stimulates circulation and is avoided on sensitive or couperose skin.

Friction and vibration: small circular or oscillating movements that warm tissue and release tension; vibration is brief and light on the face.

Lymphatic drainage uses light, directional strokes toward cervical nodes (preauricular, submandibular, supraclavicular) to reduce puffiness.

Direction of facial massage is generally upward and outward along muscle fiber direction; pressure is always toward the origin of the muscle, never dragging skin down.

Contraindications for massage: acute inflammation, active acne cysts, recent surgery, thrombosis, uncontrolled hypertension, and skin infection.

Pressure calibration: facial tissue tolerates far less force than the back; the esthetician monitors client feedback and visible erythema throughout.

Hand hygiene and warmed product precede contact; massage is performed with clean hands and no jewelry that could scratch skin.

Hair growth cycle: anagen (active growth, best waxing target), catagen (transition), telogen (resting); hair must be at least ¼ inch (about 6 mm) for wax to grip.

Wax temperature must be tested on the inner wrist or back of the hand before application; overheated wax causes burns and hyperpigmentation.

Hard wax is applied thick and removed without strips - suited to sensitive areas; soft wax requires strips and is used on larger areas.

Wax is applied in the direction of hair growth and removed against it, holding skin taut to reduce trauma.

Contraindications: isotretinoin use, recent chemical peel or laser, active infection, sunburn, varicose veins over the area, and use of blood thinners (physician clearance).

Double-dipping a spatula contaminates the wax pot; use a fresh applicator each time or dispense single-use wax.

Post-wax care: soothing lotion, no heat, sun, friction, or tight clothing for 24 hours; exfoliate after 48 hours to prevent ingrowth.

Ingrown hair prevention includes regular gentle exfoliation and moisturizing; do not pick or squeeze ingrown hairs.

Tweezing suits small areas and isolated hairs; threading and sugaring are alternatives that also remove hair at the root.

Color wheel relationships: complementary colors sit opposite and neutralize; analogous colors sit adjacent and harmonize.

Undertone correction: green neutralizes redness, peach/orange corrects blue-purple bruising or dark circles, yellow brightens sallow tones, lavender corrects yellow.

Foundation shade matching is done on the jawline in natural light; test 2–3 shades and check the blend line, not the hand.

Fitzpatrick type guides foundation range and pigment selection; deeper skin needs richer, less ashy pigments to avoid a gray cast.

Face shapes and contouring: highlight raises, contour recedes; oval is balanced, round benefits from length at the sides, square from softening at the jaw.

Eyeshadow placement follows lid, crease, and brow bone; blending transitions prevent harsh lines and visible edges.

Lip and cheek color should harmonize with undertone - cool undertones suit blue-based pinks and berries, warm undertones suit coral and peach.

Sanitation in makeup: never double-dip mascara wands, sharpen pencils before use, and use disposable applicators or spatulas for creams.

Brow mapping uses three points: inner brow at the nostril line, arch at the iris line, tail at the outer corner of the eye.

pH scale 0–14: acids below 7, bases above 7; skin-friendly products sit near pH 4.5–5.5 to preserve the acid mantle.

Emulsion types: oil-in-water (light, quickly absorbed) versus water-in-oil (richer, occlusive); emulsifiers bridge the two phases.

Humectants (glycerin, hyaluronic acid, sorbitol) draw water; emollients (oils, esters, fatty alcohols) soften; occlusives (petrolatum, dimethicone) seal water in.

Antioxidants (vitamin C, vitamin E, ferulic acid) neutralize free radicals; vitamin C also inhibits tyrosinase for brightening but is unstable at high pH and in light.

Retinoids accelerate cell turnover and stimulate collagen; they cause photosensitivity and irritation, so use is paired with sunscreen and gradual introduction.

AHA exfoliation depends on molecule size, concentration, and pH: glycolic (smallest) penetrates fastest; lactic is gentler and more hydrating.

Sunscreen terms: SPF measures UVB protection; broad-spectrum covers UVA; PA or Boots Star ratings describe UVA. Reapply every two hours outdoors.

Fragrance and essential oils are common sensitizers; patch testing and fragrance-free options reduce reaction risk.

Preservatives (parabens, phenoxyethanol, benzyl alcohol) prevent microbial growth in water-containing products; anhydrous products need fewer preservatives.

Maine licenses estheticians through the State Board of Barbering and Cosmetology; practice without a current license is prohibited.

License renewal and continuing education requirements are set by Board rule; verify current cycle and hour requirements on the Board's official site before relying on them.

Scope of practice: estheticians cleanse, treat, and beautify skin and apply makeup; they do not diagnose, prescribe, or perform medical procedures.

Display of license and posting of required consumer information are conditions of lawful practice in a licensed establishment.

Sanitation standards for establishments and schools are set by Board rule, including disinfection protocols, waste handling, and handwashing facilities.

Advertising and title use must be truthful; claiming certification or affiliation that does not exist is a violation of professional ethics.

Confidentiality: client records, health information, and photographs are not disclosed without written consent.

Informed consent and refusal documentation: explain risks, obtain consent, and record any service declined for contraindication.

Professional boundaries: no service while impaired, no treatment outside training, and referral to a physician when findings exceed scope.