MN Esthetician cheat sheet

Sanitation reduces the microorganism count to a safe level; disinfection destroys most pathogens on nonporous implements; sterilization destroys all microbial life including spores.

Implements that contact skin or blood are cleaned of debris, then immersed in an EPA-registered, hospital-grade disinfectant with a tuberculocidal claim for the label's full contact time.

Porous or absorbent items - cotton, gauze, wooden sticks, nail files, buffers, sponges, wax strips - are single-use and cannot be disinfected.

Blood or body-fluid spill: don gloves, absorb with disposable towels, clean with soap and water, then disinfect with an EPA-registered product labeled for bloodborne pathogens (or 1:10 bleach); seal waste in a bag.

Hands are washed with soap and water for at least 20 seconds before and after each client; sanitizer is not a substitute when hands are visibly soiled.

Electrical equipment is unplugged before cleaning; housings are wiped with disinfectant and never immersed, and cords are inspected for damage.

A Safety Data Sheet must be on file and accessible for every chemical product in the salon.

Quaternary ammonium disinfectants are mixed at the label dilution, must stay wet for the full contact time, and are replaced when visibly soiled or per label.

UV cabinets and towel warmers do not disinfect; they are storage only.

Epidermis layers from deepest to surface: stratum basale, stratum spinosum, stratum granulosum, stratum lucidum (palms and soles only), stratum corneum.

The dermis has a papillary and a reticular layer and contains collagen for strength, elastin for elasticity, glycosaminoglycans and hyaluronic acid for hydration, plus nerves, glands, follicles, and vessels.

Keratinocytes formed in the stratum basale reach the surface in roughly 28 days; turnover slows with age and sun damage.

Melanocytes in the basal layer produce melanin; people of all skin tones have similar melanocyte numbers, and differences come from melanin amount and activity.

The acid mantle sits near pH 4.5 to 5.5; barrier disruption raises surface pH and increases irritation and transepidermal water loss.

Sebaceous glands attach to hair follicles and secrete sebum; eccrine glands open directly to the skin surface for thermoregulation; apocrine glands open into follicles in axillae and groin.

Skin functions: protection, absorption, secretion, excretion, heat regulation, and sensation.

Facial bones include the frontal, zygomatic, maxilla, mandible, and nasal bones; the mandible is the only movable bone of the skull.

Muscles: frontalis raises the brow, orbicularis oculi closes the eye, orbicularis oris closes the lips, and masseter and temporalis perform mastication.

Skin types are normal, dry, oily, combination (oily T-zone with normal or dry cheeks), and sensitive; dehydration (lack of water) is separate from dryness (lack of oil).

Fitzpatrick I–III burn easily and tan little; IV–VI tan readily and carry a higher risk of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation after aggressive treatment.

Consultation order: intake and health history, visual and tactile analysis under magnification, treatment plan, informed consent, documentation.

Document each service: date, products used, percentage or strength, timing, skin response, home care, and any adverse reaction.

Modify or decline service with active infection, cold sores, open lesions, sunburn, recent peels or laser, recent waxing, or isotretinoin use.

Estheticians do not diagnose; lesions that are new, changing, bleeding, or asymmetric are referred to a physician without naming a condition.

Wood's lamp: violet-blue fluorescence suggests dehydration; yellow-brown suggests thickened or oily skin; coral-red may indicate bacterial porphyrins.

Patch test 24 to 48 hours before adhesives, tints, or unfamiliar products for any client with a history of reaction.

Standard facial order: cleanse, analyze, exfoliate, steam and extractions, massage, mask, tone, moisturize, sun protection.

Massage movements: effleurage (gliding), petrissage (kneading), tapotement (percussion), friction (rubbing), and vibration (shaking).

Strokes generally travel from muscle insertion toward origin, and lymph is directed toward the nearest nodes with pressure moving upward and outward on the face.

Facial massage is contraindicated with fever, acute inflammation, severe acne, recent surgery or fillers, thrombosis, or contagious disease.

Steam is held 8 to 12 inches from the face for about 5 to 10 minutes; longer exposure dehydrates skin and over-dilates capillaries.

Clay and mud masks absorb oil for oily skin; cream, gel, and sheet masks hydrate dry or sensitive skin; leave on 10 to 15 minutes.

Eye makeup is removed with a non-oily remover using downward strokes; never tug or stretch the eyelid.

Extractions follow softening with a warm compress or steam, target only lesions with a visible plug, and stay within the scope allowed by the state.

Waxing and tweezing are epilation (hair removed from the root); shaving and depilatory creams are depilation (surface only); electrolysis and laser provide permanent reduction.

Hair cycles through anagen (growth), catagen (transition), and telogen (rest); waxing catches anagen hairs, so regrowth appears in roughly 3 to 6 weeks.

Hair must be at least 1/4 inch (about 6 mm) long for wax to grip; longer hair is trimmed to that length first.

Apply wax in the direction of hair growth and remove the strip in the opposite direction while holding the skin taut.

Test wax temperature on your inner wrist before applying to the face; overheated wax burns thin facial skin.

Avoid waxing clients using isotretinoin (commonly within 6 to 12 months), topical retinoids, AHA or BHA products within 48 to 72 hours, or those with recent peels, laser, sunburn, or varicose veins.

Never double-dip applicators; use a fresh stick whenever product returns to the pot, and discard strips after one use.

After waxing, avoid heat, friction, tight clothing, and exfoliation for 24 to 48 hours; recommend daily SPF and gentle exfoliation after 48 hours to reduce ingrown hairs.

Lash extensions bond with cyanoacrylate adhesive that cures with moisture; typical working conditions are moderate temperature and roughly 45 to 60 percent relative humidity.

Isolate one natural lash per extension, place adhesive 1 to 2 mm from the eyelid, and never allow adhesive to contact skin.

Classic sets apply one extension per natural lash; volume sets apply 2 to 6 lighter extensions per natural lash.

Adhesive and tint require a patch test 24 to 48 hours before the first service.

Lash lifts use a silicone shield plus a reducing solution and a neutralizer; eyes stay closed and no solution may enter the eye.

Eyebrow mapping: inner brow aligns with the side of the nose, arch aligns with the outer edge of the iris, tail aligns with the outer corner of the eye.

Do not perform lash or brow services with conjunctivitis, styes, other eye infections, recent eye surgery, or known adhesive allergy.

Tweezers and lash tools are cleaned and disinfected between clients; mascara wands and lash brushes are single-use.

Primaries are red, yellow, and blue; secondaries are orange, green, and violet; tertiary colors mix a primary with an adjacent secondary.

Complementary colors sit opposite on the wheel and cancel each other: green neutralizes red, orange neutralizes blue, and violet neutralizes yellow.

Undertone clues: gold jewelry suits warm undertones, silver suits cool, both suit neutral; green veins suggest warm and blue-purple veins suggest cool.

Match foundation at the jawline in natural daylight (about 5000 to 6500 K), not under tungsten salon lighting.

Hue is the color name, value is lightness or darkness, and intensity is saturation.

Color schemes: monochromatic (one hue), analogous (adjacent hues), complementary (opposites), triadic (three evenly spaced hues).

Face shapes include oval, round, square, heart, diamond, and oblong; contour darkens to recede and highlight brings forward.

Application order: primer, foundation, concealer, powder, blush and bronzer, eye products, mascara, brows, lips.

Makeup sanitation: sharpen pencils, spatula product onto a palette, never double-dip, and disinfect brushes between clients.

AHAs (glycolic, lactic, malic, tartaric, citric) are water-soluble surface exfoliants; glycolic has the smallest molecule and penetrates fastest.

BHA (salicylic acid) is oil-soluble, penetrates pores, and suits oily or acne-prone skin; avoid it with an aspirin allergy.

Peel strength depends on acid type, concentration, pH, number of layers, and contact time; lower pH generally means more free acid and more exfoliation.

Estheticians perform superficial peels; medium and deep peels such as TCA and high-percentage phenol are medical procedures.

Stop retinoids about 3 to 7 days before a peel and avoid waxing, depilation, or mechanical exfoliation for 48 to 72 hours prior.

Do not peel clients who are pregnant, using isotretinoin, have active cold sores or infection, or had recent laser or surgery in the area.

Neutralize acid peels with the manufacturer's neutralizer or water per protocol; some peels are self-neutralizing.

Frosting indicates protein coagulation and deeper penetration; stop the service and follow the manufacturer's post-peel protocol.

Post-peel care: broad-spectrum SPF 30 or higher, gentle cleansing, no picking, and no heat or exfoliation for 48 to 72 hours.

Obtain and document informed consent before every service; it covers the procedure, expected results, risks, alternatives, and aftercare.

Client records are confidential and are disclosed only with written authorization or when required by law.

Stay within scope of practice: do not diagnose, prescribe, or treat disease; refer suspicious lesions or symptoms to a physician.

Decline service for contagious conditions politely and without disclosing the client's condition to anyone else.

Use open-ended questions and reflective listening, and confirm the client's understanding before the service begins.

Avoid guaranteeing outcomes; describe typical results and the variables such as home care, skin type, and lifestyle.

Handle complaints by listening, documenting facts, avoiding blame, and offering a remedy that matches salon policy.

With skin of color, choose gentler protocols because of the higher risk of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation and keloid scarring.

Minnesota Statutes chapter 155A and Minnesota Rules chapter 2105 govern esthetician licensing, salon licensing, sanitation, and practice standards, administered by the Board of Cosmetologist Examiners.

Both the individual practitioner and the salon must hold current licenses, and licenses must be available for inspection at the salon.

Services must stay within the esthetician scope; injectables, laser resurfacing, and deep medical peels require a medical license.

Establishments must maintain written disinfection procedures, a designated handwashing sink, and a covered waste container.

Booth renters must individually hold a license and are responsible for their own sanitation, records, and client services.

Keep a current service menu with prices and disclose charges to the client before the service begins.

Maintain client records including health history, consent, products used, and adverse reactions, following Board retention requirements.

Continuing education is required for license renewal; confirm current hour requirements with the Board before renewing.