MT Barber cheat sheet

Define the ladder of decontamination: cleaning removes visible debris; disinfection kills most pathogens on surfaces; sterilization destroys all microbial life including bacterial spores.

EPA-registered hospital-grade disinfectant with tuberculocidal claim is the benchmark for blood-contaminated implements; immersion time follows the manufacturer's label, commonly 10 minutes.

Implements that cut or penetrate skin (shears, razors, blades, nail nippers) are single-use or must be cleaned then sterilized by autoclave (steam under pressure, typically 250°F/121°C), dry heat, or chemical sterilant.

Standard Precautions treat all blood and body fluids as infectious; gloves are required whenever contact with blood, broken skin, or mucous membranes is possible.

Blood spill protocol: wear gloves, absorb with disposable towel, clean with detergent, disinfect with an EPA-registered tuberculocidal product at label dilution, and discard materials in a sealed bag.

Wet sanitizer jars must be covered, changed at least daily or per label, and never stored with implements sitting in visible debris; test strips verify quat or bleach concentration.

Handwashing is the single most effective control measure: soap and running water for at least 20 seconds, or an alcohol-based hand rub when hands are not visibly soiled.

Dispose of single-use blades, wax strips, and porous items in a covered waste container; porous items that contact blood cannot be disinfected and are discarded.

Hair shaft layers: cuticle (outer protective scales), cortex (bulk, contains melanin and disulfide bonds), medulla (central core, may be absent in fine hair).

Growth cycle: anagen (active growth, 2–7 years), catagen (transition, ~2–3 weeks), telogen (rest, ~3 months); normal shedding is roughly 50–100 hairs daily.

Scalp conditions: pityriasis (dry flaking), seborrheic dermatitis (oily yellow scales), tinea capitis (fungal, contagious - refer out), pediculosis (lice - refer out).

Contraindications to scalp massage or chemical service: open lesions, abrasions, recent chemical burn, active infection, or undiagnosed inflammation.

Hair porosity governs product uptake: high porosity absorbs and releases moisture quickly; low porosity resists penetration and needs heat or longer processing.

Elasticity test: wet a strand and stretch; normal hair extends about 50% before breaking, low elasticity indicates damage and limits lightening.

Scalp massage techniques (effleurage, petrissage, tapotement) increase circulation; tapotement is contraindicated on thin or sensitive scalps.

Shampoo surfactant types: anionic (strongest cleansing, salon shampoos), nonionic (mild, good for damaged hair), cationic (conditioning, low cleansing), amphoteric (mild, combines with anionics).

pH reference: hair and scalp near pH 4.5–5.5; alkaline shampoos swell the cuticle and raise porosity, acidic rinses flatten the cuticle.

Water temperature for shampooing is warm, not hot; hot water strips sebum and increases color fade.

Conditioners work by cationic surfactants bonding to negatively charged damaged hair, smoothing the cuticle and reducing static and friction.

Protein treatments fill gaps in porous hair temporarily; they do not repair bonds, and overuse causes stiffness and breakage.

Deep conditioning requires heat or time to lift the cuticle; rinse thoroughly to avoid buildup and limpness.

Contraindication rule: do not shampoo before a chemical service if the formula requires scalp oils for protection, and never shampoo over undiagnosed scalp lesions.

Guide types: stationary guide (no elevation, produces a solid line), traveling guide (moves with each cut), and combination guide (blends the two).

Elevation controls graduation: 0° is a blunt/solid line, 45° is graduation, 90° is uniform layering, and 180° is long layering.

Tapering is a gradual decrease in length toward the hairline and neckline; a fade is a taper that blends to skin (bald fade) or near-skin.

Clipper guard numbers correspond to blade length: #1 ≈ 1/8 in, #2 ≈ 1/4 in, #3 ≈ 3/8 in, #4 ≈ 1/2 in; detachable blades are sized by number (000, 0A, 1, 1A).

Blade-to-skin contact angle: keep the blade flat and parallel to the scalp for even cutting; tilting the corner digs and creates lines.

Sectioning order for a taper: establish the perimeter line, cut the top and crown, then blend sides and back from longest to shortest.

Cross-checking (cutting against the grain of the previous section) reveals unevenness before finishing.

Shaving lather softens the cuticle and holds water; apply warm, moist towel for 1–2 minutes before lathering to soften the beard.

Shave with the grain (in the direction of hair growth) to reduce razor burn and ingrown hairs; against-the-grain passes increase irritation risk.

Hold a straight razor at roughly a 30° angle to the skin; stretch the skin taut and use short, gliding strokes.

Contraindications for shaving: moles, warts, inflamed or broken skin, recent chemical peel, sunburn, and active acne lesions.

Beard design follows face shape: fuller sides balance a long face, shorter sides slim a round face; define cheek and necklines with the natural growth pattern.

Freehand clipper outlining uses the corner of the blade with light pressure; never dig the blade corner into the skin.

After-shave products should be soothing and alcohol-free for sensitive skin; astringents tighten pores and can sting freshly shaved skin.

Hair color law of color: primary (red, yellow, blue) combine into secondary (orange, green, violet); complementary colors neutralize each other on the color wheel.

Level system runs 1 (black) to 10 (lightest blonde); underlying pigment follows the pattern red-orange (levels 1–3), orange (4–5), gold (6–7), yellow (8–9), pale yellow (10).

Developer volumes: 10 vol (3%) deposit only, 20 vol (6%) standard lift, 30 vol (9%) more lift, 40 vol (12%) maximum lift with highest damage risk.

Lightening (bleach) removes melanin; it cannot be reversed, and overlapping applications cause breakage.

Relaxers: sodium hydroxide (lye, pH ~12–14) and guanidine (no-lye) both break disulfide bonds; neutralization rebuilds bonds and lowers pH.

Permanent wave process: thio relaxes disulfide bonds, curlers set the shape, neutralizer (hydrogen peroxide or sodium bromate) re-forms bonds.

Strand test before every chemical service determines processing time, formula strength, and whether the hair can tolerate the service.

Skin layers: epidermis (outer, avascular), dermis (contains nerves, glands, capillaries), subcutaneous (fat, insulation).

Appendages of the skin include hair follicles, sebaceous glands, sudoriferous (sweat) glands, and nails.

Bones of the skull and face relevant to barbering: frontal, parietal, temporal, occipital, zygomatic, maxilla, mandible.

Muscles of mastication and expression: frontalis, temporalis, masseter, orbicularis oculi, orbicularis oris, platysma.

Contagious conditions requiring referral: tinea (ringworm), impetigo, pediculosis, scabies, herpes simplex, and verruca (warts).

Noncontagious conditions: seborrheic dermatitis, psoriasis, eczema, and acne - service may proceed only if skin is not broken or inflamed.

Bloodborne pathogens of concern in the shop: hepatitis B and C, HIV; hepatitis B is the most easily transmitted and is vaccine-preventable.

Licensure is state-specific: barber license, barber instructor license, and shop license are issued by the state board of barbering or cosmetology.

Scope of practice differs by state; some states separate barber and cosmetology licenses and restrict services accordingly.

Sanitation standards are set by state rule, often adopting OSHA bloodborne pathogen standards for shops with employees.

Continuing education hours, renewal cycles (commonly annual or biennial), and late fees are set by the state board.

Display requirements: license posted at the work station and shop license posted in a visible area.

Client records, including chemical service records, may be required to be retained for a set period per state rule.

Violations (unsanitary practice, unlicensed activity, exceeding scope) can result in fines, suspension, or revocation; verify current rules with the state board.

Informed consent: explain the service, risks, and alternatives, and document the client's agreement before chemical or skin services.

Client consultation includes medical history, medications (e.g., isotretinoin, blood thinners), allergies, and prior chemical services.

Confidentiality: client information and records are not shared without consent; discuss services only with the client.

OSHA Hazard Communication Standard requires Safety Data Sheets (SDS) for every chemical product in the shop and employee training.

Shop management basics: inventory control, appointment scheduling, pricing that covers product and labor cost, and written sanitation logs.

Professional boundaries: refuse services that exceed scope of practice or are unsafe, and refer to a physician when a condition is outside barbering.

Emergency readiness: know the location of the first-aid kit, eyewash, and fire extinguisher, and post emergency numbers.