MATSEC SEC Fashion and Textiles cheat sheet

Fibre classification: natural (cotton, linen, wool, silk) vs manufactured (regenerated: viscose, acetate; synthetic: polyester, nylon, acrylic).

Yarn count systems: cotton count (Ne) = number of 840-yard hanks per pound; denier = grams per 9,000 metres; tex = grams per 1,000 metres.

Staple fibres are short (cotton ~2.5 cm, wool 5–30 cm) and spun into yarns; filament fibres are continuous and can be textured for bulk.

Weave structures: plain (1/1) interlacing gives maximum stability; twill (2/1, 3/1) produces diagonal lines and is denser; satin (4/1 or more) floats give lustre and low abrasion resistance.

Knitted fabrics: weft knit (single jersey) stretches widthwise and curls at edges; warp knit (tricot) is more stable and less elastic.

Non-woven fabrics are bonded by heat, chemical or mechanical means; they have no yarn structure and are used for interfacing and disposables.

Fabric weight is expressed in g/m² (GSM); typical cotton shirting 100–150 g/m², denim 300–450 g/m².

Fibre identification tests: burn test (cellulosic burns like paper, protein smells of burnt hair, synthetic melts), microscopic view, and solubility in solvents.

Colouration methods: dyeing (fibre, yarn, piece or garment) gives penetration; printing (direct, discharge, resist) applies colour locally to the surface.

Dye–fibre affinity: reactive dyes form covalent bonds with cellulose; acid dyes bond to wool and silk; disperse dyes are used for polyester under high temperature/pressure.

Colourfastness tests measure resistance to washing, light, rubbing (crocking) and perspiration; ratings use grey scales 1 (poor) to 5 (excellent).

Mechanical finishes include calendering (glazing), raising (brushing), and sanforising (compressive shrinkage to control cotton shrinkage to about 1%).

Chemical finishes include mercerising (caustic soda improves lustre and dye uptake), easy-care resin (reduces creasing), and flame retardancy.

Fabric properties: absorbency, breathability, thermal insulation, elasticity, drape, and abrasion resistance; these determine end-use suitability.

Shrinkage occurs in cellulosic fabrics due to relaxation of built-in strains; pre-shrink by washing or choose sanforised fabric.

Pilling results from loose fibres tangling on the surface; it is reduced by singeing, cropping, or using longer-staple fibres.

Design cycle: brief → research → design development (sketches, samples) → final design → production → evaluation.

Mood boards communicate colour, texture, and theme; they should include annotated images and fabric swatches.

Fashion illustration proportions: croquis typically 9 heads tall; exaggerate legs and neck for stylised figures.

Technical flats (working drawings) are to scale, show seams, topstitching, and closures, and are used for specification sheets.

Colour theory: complementary colours sit opposite on the colour wheel and create high contrast; analogous colours are adjacent and harmonious.

Target market research includes age, gender, lifestyle, income, and occasion; this informs price point and fabric choice.

Design development uses toiles (muslins) to test fit and proportion before cutting final fabric.

Pattern drafting methods: flat pattern (from block), draping on the stand, and reverse engineering from existing garment.

Seam allowance standard: 1.5 cm on most seams, 1 cm on necklines and armholes, 4–5 cm on hems.

Dart manipulation: a dart can be moved to any edge by pivoting around the bust point; the total intake remains constant.

Grainline must be parallel to the centre front/back; fabric is cut on the straight grain unless bias drape is required.

Fitting checks: balance (garment hangs level), ease (movement), and drag lines (indicate tightness or poor grain).

Construction sequence: staystitch, interface, darts, seams, closures, collars, sleeves, hems, pressing at each stage.

Types of seams: plain (pressed open), French (enclosed, for light fabrics), overlock (for knits), flat-fell (for denim).

Portfolio evidence: design brief, research pages, technical flats, pattern pieces, toiles, construction photos, and evaluation.

Annotation should explain decisions (fabric choice, seam type) and link to research, not just describe the step.

Health and safety in the workshop: keep floor clear, use a thimble, never sew over pins, unplug equipment after use.

Time plan for making: allocate sessions for cutting, sewing, pressing, and finishing; include quality control checks.

Quality standards: even seam allowance, matched patterns at seams, secure stitching, clean pressing, no loose threads.

Evaluation criteria: fit, finish, durability, aesthetics, and how well the garment meets the brief.

Photograph work in progress and final garment on a mannequin or model for the portfolio.

Care label symbols (ISO 3758): washtub with temperature, triangle for bleach, square with circle for tumble dry, iron with dots, circle for dry clean.

Fibre content and country of origin must be stated on labels in many jurisdictions; check local regulations.

Washing temperature affects shrinkage and colour loss; follow the highest temperature allowed by the most delicate fibre.

Dry cleaning uses solvent; symbol P allows any solvent, F allows petroleum-based only.

Ironing temperatures: 1 dot (110°C) for acrylic/nylon, 2 dots (150°C) for wool/polyester blends, 3 dots (200°C) for cotton/linen.

Care instructions should be tested according to standard procedures before attaching labels.

Consumer rights: goods must be fit for purpose, as described, and of satisfactory quality.

Risk assessment: identify hazards (sharp tools, electricity, chemicals), assess likelihood and severity, and implement controls.

Machine safety: keep fingers away from the needle, use the guard, switch off when threading or changing needles.

Iron safety: use a stand, never leave unattended, be aware of steam burns and electrical cords.

Cutting tools: keep blades sharp, cut away from the body, and store scissors closed.

Personal protective equipment: thimble, safety glasses when using a hammer or drill, gloves for dyes.

Ventilation is required when using solvent-based adhesives, dyes, or spray finishes.

First aid: know the location of the first aid kit and report all accidents.

The three pillars of sustainability: environmental, social, and economic.

Circular fashion: design for durability, repairability, and recyclability; reduce waste through zero-waste pattern cutting.

Ethical issues: fair wages, safe working conditions, no child labour, and transparency in supply chains.

Environmental impacts: water use (cotton ~10,000 L/kg), pesticide use, microfibre pollution from synthetic fabrics.

Certifications: GOTS (organic cotton), Fairtrade, OEKO-TEX (harmful substances), and B Corp for overall social/environmental performance.

Slow fashion advocates quality over quantity, local production, and timeless design.

Consumer responsibility: wash less, repair, recycle, and choose sustainable fibres.