MATSEC SEC Fashion and Textiles key terms

A short natural fibre, such as cotton or wool, measured in centimetres rather than metres. Staple length affects how smoothly the fibre spins and how strong and soft the finished yarn becomes.

A fibre of continuous, indefinite length, either natural like silk or manufactured like polyester. Filaments give smooth, strong yarns and can be cut into short lengths to imitate staple fibres.

A manufactured fibre made by dissolving a natural raw material, usually wood pulp or cotton linters, and extruding it into filaments. Viscose and lyocell are examples; the polymer chemistry is natural but the production process is industrial.

A manufactured fibre built from polymers made by chemical synthesis, typically from petroleum. Polyester, nylon and acrylic are common examples, valued for strength and quick drying but criticised for microplastic shedding.

The number of turns per unit length inserted into fibres as they are spun into yarn. Low twist gives soft, lofty yarns for knitwear; high twist gives strong, smooth yarns and can make fabric prone to snagging.

The two yarn systems in woven fabric. Warp yarns run lengthwise, parallel to the selvedge, and are usually stronger and more tightly twisted; weft yarns run across the width and interlace with the warp.

The firmly finished lengthwise edge of a woven fabric, formed where the weft turns back. It prevents fraying and marks the straight grain, so patterns are usually laid parallel to it.

The direction at 45 degrees to the warp and weft threads. Bias-cut fabric stretches and drapes fluidly, which suits cowl necks and slip dresses but makes seams prone to distortion during sewing.

A single-knit fabric in which loops interlock on one side, giving stretch across the width and a tendency to curl at the edges. T-shirts and lightweight dresses are typical products.

A finish that treats cotton yarn or fabric under tension with caustic soda. It increases lustre and strength and improves dye uptake, giving a smoother, more reflective surface.

A mechanical finish that passes fabric between heated rollers under pressure to flatten the surface. It produces a smooth, slightly glossy handle, as on chintz, but the effect is not permanent.

A dye that forms a chemical bond with cellulose fibres such as cotton, giving excellent wash fastness and bright shades. It needs alkali and salt in the dyebath and thorough rinsing afterwards.

A substance, often a metal salt, applied to fibre before dyeing so the dye attaches and stays fixed. It is essential for many natural dyes and can shift the resulting colour shade.

The resistance of a dyed textile to fading or bleeding when exposed to washing, light, rubbing or perspiration. It is tested by comparing dyed samples against standard grey scales.

A written statement setting out the client, target market, purpose, budget and constraints of a design task. It guides research and provides criteria against which the final garment is evaluated.

A visual collection of images, fabric swatches and colour samples that communicates the feeling and direction of a design idea. It supports colour palette and styling decisions early in the design process.

A drawing that communicates a garment design through pose, proportion and rendering of fabric and detail. Exaggerated figures are common, but flats are used when technical accuracy matters.

A flat, to-scale technical drawing of a garment showing seams, topstitching, closures and proportions, usually with measurements and notes. It communicates construction details precisely to pattern cutters and manufacturers.

A basic, close-fitting pattern for a bodice, sleeve or skirt, made to standard measurements and with no design features. Blocks are adapted, by slashing or dart manipulation, into final garment patterns.

A trial garment made in cheap fabric such as calico to test the fit and construction of a pattern before cutting the final fabric. Alterations marked on the toile are transferred back to the pattern.

The technique of moving a dart from one position to another, or converting it into seams, gathers or tucks, by pivoting or slashing the pattern. It shapes flat fabric to the curves of the body.

A marked arrow on a pattern piece showing how it should be aligned with the fabric's lengthwise grain. Correct placement prevents twisting and distortion in the finished garment.

The extra width of fabric beyond the stitching line, usually 1 to 1.5 cm on commercial patterns, that allows a seam to be sewn and finished. It is removed or added when adapting patterns.

A neat enclosed seam made by sewing the wrong sides together, trimming, then sewing the right sides together to hide the raw edges. It suits fine, sheer fabrics and is strong in washing.

A machine that trims the seam allowance and encases the raw edge in an interlocking stitch in one operation. It is used for neatening knits and woven edges and can also join seams on stretch fabrics.

A supporting fabric, either sew-in or fusible, applied to areas such as collars, cuffs and waistbands to add firmness and stop them stretching. It must match the weight and care of the outer fabric.

The extra room built into a garment beyond body measurements so the wearer can move and breathe. Design ease creates the silhouette, while wearing ease is the minimum needed for comfort.

The organised body of evidence a candidate submits, including research, design development, samples, pattern work, construction photographs and evaluation. It should show the design process from brief to finished outcome.

A permanent label giving washing, bleaching, drying and ironing instructions plus fibre content and country of origin. It must remain legible for the life of the garment and informs the consumer's care decisions.

The stated percentage by weight of each fibre in a textile product. It is a legal labelling requirement and predicts properties such as warmth, absorbency and how the item should be cleaned.

A written evaluation of hazards in the workshop or studio, identifying who might be harmed, how likely and how severe, and the control measures taken. Sewing machines, irons and rotary cutters are common subjects.

Items worn to reduce injury risk, such as finger guards, goggles when handling dyes, and closed shoes in the workshop. It supplements safe practice but does not replace guarding and good housekeeping.

A wheel-bladed cutting tool used with a self-healing mat and ruler to cut fabric accurately. The blade is extremely sharp, so the guard must be closed after every cut and fingers kept clear.

A system in which materials are kept in use through reuse, repair, remaking and recycling instead of being discarded after one life. In fashion it challenges the take-make-dispose model of fast production.

Creating a new, higher-value product from existing garments or textile waste, such as remaking a shirt into a dress. It avoids the energy and water of new fibre production and keeps textiles out of landfill.

A business model of rapidly producing cheap, trend-led clothing in short cycles to encourage frequent purchase. It raises concerns about worker pay, textile waste, water use and garment quality.

A fibre finer than about one decitex, or a fabric woven from such fibres, giving a dense, soft handle. Synthetic microfibres shed in washing and contribute to microplastic pollution in waterways.