Sustainability, ethics and the fashion/textile industry
Impacts across the life cycle
Cotton can be water- and pesticide-intensive; polyester is fossil-based and sheds microplastics in washing; viscose has been linked to deforestation; dyeing uses large volumes of water. The use phase often dominates energy use through washing and tumble drying, and disposal sends valuable fibre to landfill or incineration.
Certifications and tools
GOTS covers organic cotton and processing; Oeko-Tex Standard 100 tests for harmful substances; bluesign addresses resource use in mills; Fairtrade supports producer premiums; B Corp and Cradle to Cradle indicate broader social or circular commitments. These labels are not interchangeable, and a logo alone does not prove a supply chain is clean.
Ethics and circularity
Fair wages, safe factories, no child or forced labour, and transparency about suppliers are core. The Rana Plaza collapse in 2013 exposed unsafe garment factories. Circular design means durability, repairability, mono-material construction, recycled content, take-back and resale. Legislation is moving towards extended producer responsibility and digital product passports.
Worked example: a school shirt - organic cotton has lower pesticide impact but high water use; polyester is durable and cheap but sheds microplastics; a cotton/polyester blend is hard to recycle. Choosing a single-fibre, durable, repairable cotton shirt with GOTS and Oeko-Tex claims, and a care label recommending low-temperature washing, is defensible.
Traps: assuming 'natural' means sustainable; claiming 'biodegradable' without conditions; accepting greenwashing slogans; ignoring the use phase.