MSCE Clothing and Textiles flashcards

32 cards. Read the term and the definition here. The deck at the top of this page is optional.

Tex yarn count

Weight in grams of 1000 metres of yarn. A higher tex number means a coarser, heavier yarn; a lower tex means a finer yarn.

S-twist versus Z-twist

S-twist yarns spiral in the direction of the letter S when held vertically; Z-twist yarns spiral the opposite way. Ply yarns usually combine opposing twists for balance.

Plain weave characteristics

Each warp end passes alternately over and under each weft pick. It gives the maximum interlacing, so the fabric is strong, stable and relatively firm but creases easily.

Moisture regain definition

The percentage of moisture a dry fibre absorbs from standard atmosphere (20°C, 65% RH) expressed as a percentage of its oven-dry weight. Wool is high, polyester very low.

Thermoplastic fibre behaviour

Synthetic fibres such as polyester and nylon soften and can be reshaped with heat. This allows heat-setting and permanent pleating but risks ironing shine and melting.

Grey scale for colourfastness

A five-step reference scale used to grade colour change and staining after a fastness test. Grade 5 means negligible change; grade 1 means severe change.

Sanforising

A compressive shrinkage finish that mechanically compresses cotton fabric against a rubber blanket to reduce residual shrinkage, typically to about one percent.

Mercerisation

Treating cotton with strong sodium hydroxide under tension. It swells the fibre, increases lustre, strength and dye uptake, and removes immature fibre appearance.

Care label iron symbols

Iron symbols carry dots for temperature: one dot 110°C, two dots 150°C, three dots 200°C. A crossed-out iron means do not iron.

Wearing ease definition

The extra measurement built into a pattern beyond body measurements so the wearer can move and breathe. It excludes design ease added purely for silhouette.

Dart manipulation principle

A bust or waist dart can be rotated to any position around its apex without changing fit. Slash-and-spread adds fullness; pivot transfer relocates the dart.

Grainline on a pattern

An arrow printed on the pattern piece showing how it must align with the lengthwise grain or fold. Correct alignment prevents twisting and poor hang.

Sway back adjustment

A horizontal wedge is pinned out at centre back below the shoulder blades and tapered to nothing at the side seam, removing excess length over a hollow lower back.

Full bust adjustment

A slash is made vertically through the bust dart and horizontally across the apex. The pattern is spread for extra cup volume and the side seam shortened accordingly.

Trouser drag lines

Diagonal wrinkles radiating from the crotch towards the hip usually indicate insufficient seat depth or a tight crotch curve, requiring a deeper back rise.

Lockstitch 301

A two-thread straight stitch formed by a needle thread and bobbin thread interlocking in the fabric. It is the standard seam for woven garments.

Ballpoint needle use

A needle with a rounded point that pushes between knit loops rather than cutting them. It prevents laddering and holes in jersey and other knits.

French seam

A seam enclosing raw edges inside a folded pocket of fabric, sewn twice. It gives a clean finish on lightweight and sheer fabrics but adds bulk.

Complementary colour scheme

Two hues opposite each other on the colour wheel, such as red and green. The pairing gives maximum contrast and is used for emphasis and drama.

Metamerism in colour matching

Two samples that appear to match under one light source but differ under another. It arises from different dye spectra and must be checked under several illuminants.

Cost per wear

Purchase price divided by the number of times the garment is worn. It compares true value between a cheap garment worn rarely and a costly one worn often.

Fibre content labelling

Regulated declaration of fibre percentages on the care label. Generic fibre names must be used, and small tolerance allowances apply to the stated percentages.

Break-even units formula

Fixed costs divided by the contribution per unit, which is unit price minus unit variable cost. The result is the number of units needed to cover all fixed costs.

Margin versus markup

Margin is profit as a percentage of selling price; markup is profit as a percentage of cost. A 50% markup equals roughly a 33% margin.

OEKO-TEX Standard 100

An independent certification limiting harmful substances in textiles, including formaldehyde, azo dyes and heavy metals. Limits are strictest for baby articles.

Effluent treatment in dyeing

Wastewater from dyeing carries dyes, salts and alkalis. It is treated by biological oxidation, filtration and colour removal before discharge to protect watercourses.

Toile in project work

A trial garment made in calico or similar fabric to test fit and construction before cutting the final fabric. Corrections are transferred back to the pattern.

Four-point fabric inspection

A system assigning penalty points to defects according to their length. A roll is accepted if points per 100 square yards stay below the agreed limit.

Reactive dye bonding

Reactive dyes form covalent bonds with cellulose fibres, giving good wash fastness. Unfixed dye must be soaped off or fastness to washing will fail.

Sleeve cap ease

The extra length of the sleeve cap over the armhole seam, usually two to four centimetres. It is distributed between notches and shrunk out with steam.

Buttonhole length rule

Buttonhole length equals the button diameter plus its thickness plus two to three millimetres. Measure the actual button rather than assuming a standard size.

Marker efficiency

The percentage of fabric used by the pattern pieces in a cutting marker. Good markers reach eighty to eighty-five percent; prints and plaids reduce it.