MSCE Clothing and Textiles study materials
MSCE Clothing and Textiles study resources

MSCE Clothing and Textiles key terms

MSCE Clothing and Textiles · Get comfortable with the vocabulary.

Staple fibre

A short natural or manufactured fibre measured in centimetres rather than metres, which must be twisted together with many similar fibres to form a yarn.

Related: Filament, Yarn twist
Filament

A fibre of indefinite or very long length, either produced naturally by silk worms or extruded through spinnerets, that can form a yarn with little or no twisting.

Related: Staple fibre, Spinneret
Spinneret

A metal plate pierced with fine holes through which a dissolved or melted polymer is forced to produce manufactured filaments of controlled thickness.

Related: Filament, Regenerated fibre
Regenerated fibre

A manufactured fibre made by dissolving a naturally occurring polymer, such as wood cellulose, and extruding it into new filament form, for example viscose rayon.

Related: Spinneret, Synthetic fibre
Synthetic fibre

A manufactured fibre built from polymers synthesised from chemicals rather than from natural raw material, such as polyester, nylon or acrylic.

Related: Regenerated fibre, Thermoplastic fibre
Yarn count

A number expressing the thickness or linear density of a yarn, either as mass per fixed length or length per fixed mass depending on the counting system used.

Related: Tex, Yarn twist
Tex

A direct yarn numbering system giving the mass in grams of one thousand metres of yarn, so a higher tex value means a thicker yarn.

Related: Yarn count
Yarn twist

The spiral turns inserted into fibres or filaments as they are spun, holding them together and influencing yarn strength, smoothness and handle.

Related: Staple fibre, Ply yarn
Ply yarn

A yarn formed by twisting two or more single yarns together, giving greater strength, evenness and resistance to abrasion than a single yarn.

Related: Yarn twist, Warp and weft
Warp and weft

The two thread systems of a woven fabric: warp threads run lengthwise under tension, while weft threads cross them from selvedge to selvedge.

Related: Selvedge, Ply yarn
Selvedge

The firmly finished lengthwise edge of a woven fabric where the weft turns back, which prevents fraying and shows the fabric's straight grain.

Related: Warp and weft, Grain line
Knit structure

A fabric built from interlocking loops of yarn rather than crossing threads, giving stretch and elasticity, as in single jersey or rib.

Related: Warp and weft
Hygroscopic

Describing a fibre that absorbs moisture from the air and from the body, such as cotton or wool, improving comfort but slowing drying.

Related: Moisture regain, Thermoplastic fibre
Moisture regain

The percentage of moisture a dry fibre absorbs from a standard humid atmosphere, used to compare absorbency between fibre types.

Related: Hygroscopic
Thermoplastic fibre

A fibre that softens and can be reshaped when heated and hardens again on cooling, which affects ironing temperature and heat-set pleating.

Related: Synthetic fibre, Heat setting
Heat setting

A controlled heat treatment applied to thermoplastic fabrics or yarns to fix their shape, such as permanent pleats or stable knit dimensions.

Related: Thermoplastic fibre
Colourfastness

The ability of a dyed or printed fabric to keep its colour when exposed to washing, light, rubbing, perspiration or dry cleaning.

Related: Mordant, Care label
Mordant

A substance applied to a fibre before or during dyeing that helps the dye bond to the fibre and improves the fastness of the resulting colour.

Related: Colourfastness
Mercerisation

A treatment of cotton with caustic soda under tension that swells the fibre, increasing lustre, strength and dye uptake.

Related: Calendering, Colourfastness
Calendering

A mechanical finish that passes fabric between heated rollers to flatten the surface, giving a smooth, glossy or embossed appearance.

Related: Mercerisation
Care label

A permanently attached label giving the manufacturer's recommended washing, bleaching, drying, ironing and dry-cleaning instructions for the garment.

Related: Colourfastness
Grain line

A marked arrow on a pattern piece showing how it should be aligned with the lengthwise grain or selvedge of the fabric during layout.

Related: Selvedge, Pattern grading
Pattern grading

The process of systematically increasing or decreasing a master pattern to produce a range of sizes while keeping the design proportions consistent.

Related: Grain line, Toile
Toile

A trial garment made in inexpensive fabric from a pattern to test fit, proportion and construction before cutting the final fabric.

Related: Pattern grading, Ease
Ease

The extra measurement built into a garment beyond the body measurement, allowing movement and creating the intended silhouette.

Related: Toile, Dart
Dart

A wedge of fabric stitched and tapered to remove excess fullness so that flat cloth follows the curves of the body.

Related: Ease, Seam allowance
Seam allowance

The strip of fabric between the stitching line and the raw edge, kept inside the garment and usually pressed open or neatened.

Related: Dart, Overlocker
Overlocker

A machine that trims the seam edge and wraps it in interlocking threads in one operation, neatening and often joining stretch fabrics.

Related: Seam allowance
Stay stitching

A line of stitching worked just inside a seam line on a curved or bias edge to stop it stretching out of shape before assembly.

Related: Bias
Bias

The diagonal direction of a woven fabric at 45 degrees to the warp and weft, which stretches easily and is used for draping and binding curves.

Related: Grain line, Stay stitching
Colour wheel

A circular arrangement of hues used to identify relationships such as complementary, analogous and triadic schemes when planning a design.

Related: Value and hue
Value and hue

Two dimensions of colour: hue is the family name such as red or blue, while value describes how light or dark that colour is.

Related: Colour wheel
Croquis

A quick fashion sketch of an elongated figure used as a base for developing garment designs and illustrating fabric and detail.

Related: Technical drawing
Technical drawing

A flat, to-scale outline of a garment showing seams, darts, fastenings and topstitching, used as a working specification rather than an illustration.

Related: Croquis
Costing sheet

A record breaking down fabric, trims, labour and overheads to calculate the total cost of producing one garment and set a selling price.

Related: Markup, Sample
Markup

The amount added to production cost to arrive at a selling price, usually expressed as a percentage of cost or of retail price.

Related: Costing sheet
Sample

A first full garment made to the specification so buyers can assess fit, finish and cost before bulk production is approved.

Related: Costing sheet, Toile
Risk assessment

A written review identifying hazards in a workshop, judging how likely and how serious each is, and recording the controls put in place.

Related: Material safety data sheet
Material safety data sheet

A supplier document listing the hazards, safe handling, storage and first-aid measures for a chemical such as a dye or solvent.

Related: Risk assessment
Portfolio

An organised collection of a candidate's design work, samples and finished projects with annotation, used to evidence skills and development over the course.

Related: Sample, Toile