Garment Construction Techniques and Equipment
What the domain tests
Garment Construction Techniques and Equipment tests seams, stitches, hems, facings, interfacing, closures and machine settings. Expect questions that diagnose a construction fault from its appearance.
Seams and stitches
Plain seam, French seam, flat-fell seam and overlocked seam suit different fabrics and positions. Straight stitch is for wovens; zigzag or overlock adds stretch on knits. A balanced stitch has matched top and bobbin tension. Needle size must suit fabric weight: fine needle for chiffon, stronger needle for denim. Interfacing supports collars, cuffs and button stands.
Worked example
A sheer polyester blouse needs a French seam at the side seam with a 1.5 cm total allowance. Stitch wrong sides together at 6 mm, trim to 3 mm, press, turn right sides together and stitch 6 mm. Reasoning: the raw edges are enclosed inside the second seam, so no overlocking shows through. The first row must be trimmed close enough to avoid bulk but not so close that it frays out. Press each stage; test on a scrap first.
Equipment
Shears cut fabric only; pinking shears reduce fraying; seam ripper removes stitches; tailor’s chalk marks; tracing wheel transfers markings. Irons press seams open or to one side according to the finish. Regular cleaning and correct storage protect cutting tools.
Traps
Do not use a straight stitch on a stretch knit without stretch; do not use a blunt or wrong-sized needle; do not ignore tension when stitches loop; do not press over pins; do not cut with paper scissors; do not trim a seam before checking fit.