NaTIS Code 1 Learner key terms

The gap in time and space between your motorcycle and the vehicle ahead. It gives you room to stop or swerve if that vehicle brakes suddenly.

A simple way to check following distance: pick a fixed point ahead and count at least two seconds after the vehicle in front passes it before you reach it.

Passing another road user travelling in the same direction. On a motorcycle, overtake only when you can see far enough ahead, it is legal, and you can return safely.

The priority to move first at an intersection or crossing, set by traffic signs, signals and rules. Having right of way never removes the need to check for others.

To let other traffic go first. Slow down, be ready to stop, and proceed only when the way is clear and it is safe to do so.

A circular intersection where traffic travels in one direction around a central island. Entering riders yield to vehicles already circulating unless signs or signals say otherwise.

An intersection where every approach has a stop sign. The first vehicle to stop is usually the first to go; if two stop together, yield to the right.

The maximum speed the law allows on a particular road or in an area. Ride below it when visibility, traffic, weather or road surface makes the limit unsafe.

Lines, words, arrows and symbols painted on the road surface. They guide, warn and control traffic, and they have the same authority as signs.

A continuous painted line that you should not cross. A solid barrier line separates traffic and often means overtaking is prohibited or dangerous.

A dashed painted line that separates lanes or marks the edge of a road. You may cross it only when it is safe and legal to do so.

A solid white line across your lane at an intersection or crossing. Stop before it at a stop sign or red light, not on or past it.

A sign that gives an instruction or prohibition, such as a speed limit, stop, no entry or compulsory direction. You must obey it.

A sign that alerts you to a hazard ahead, such as a sharp bend, steep hill, slippery road or pedestrian crossing. Slow down and be ready to react.

An electric signal with red, amber and green lights that controls traffic at intersections or crossings. Obey the light colour and any arrows shown.

A marked part of the road set aside for people on foot. Approach at a safe speed, check both sides and give way to pedestrians using it.

At speeds above walking pace, push the handlebar on the side you want to turn. The motorcycle leans and turns that way, even though it feels counter-intuitive.

The left-hand lever that connects and disconnects engine power to the rear wheel. Use it smoothly when pulling away, changing gear and riding slowly.

The small range of clutch lever movement where the clutch starts to bite and power begins reaching the rear wheel. It is useful for slow, controlled riding.

The brake operated by the right-hand lever. It gives most of the stopping power, so apply it progressively rather than grabbing it suddenly.

The brake operated by the right foot pedal. It helps at low speed and adds stability, but it provides less stopping power than the front brake.

The left-foot lever used to select gears. Change down before a corner, stop or steep descent so you are in the right gear when you need power.

Slowing down by closing the throttle and letting the engine's compression resist the rear wheel, often in a lower gear, without using the brakes.

Stopping as quickly and safely as you can. Keep the motorcycle straight, use both brakes progressively and avoid locking a wheel.

How far the motorcycle tilts into a turn. More lean means more grip is needed, so reduce speed and lean on wet, gravelly or uneven roads.

The path you choose through a bend. A wider entry, a closer apex and a wider exit can improve your view and keep the curve smoother.

Balancing and steering a motorcycle at walking pace using the clutch friction zone, gentle throttle and rear brake. Keep your eyes up and turn your head.

A quick look over your shoulder to see what mirrors miss. Do it before changing lanes, turning or joining traffic, and keep it brief.

The area beside and behind the motorcycle that mirrors do not show. A head check is needed before you move sideways into that space.

Riding so that you anticipate mistakes by others and avoid crashes before they happen. Stay visible, keep space, scan ahead and have an escape plan.

Noticing and predicting dangerous situations early, such as a car pulling out or gravel on a bend, so you have time to react safely.

Staring at a hazard so that your motorcycle tends to steer toward it. Instead, look where you want to go and the bike will follow.

The distance your motorcycle travels from the moment you see a hazard until it stops. It includes reaction distance plus braking distance and grows quickly with speed.

When tyres ride on a layer of water instead of the road, so grip and steering are lost. Slow down in heavy rain and avoid standing water.

A loss of grip where the tyres slide instead of rolling. Harsh braking, sudden steering or too much throttle can cause one, especially on wet or loose surfaces.

How easily other road users can see you. Use your headlight, wear bright or reflective clothing and position yourself where drivers are likely to look.

Protective headgear that covers the skull and is fastened under the chin. It must fit properly and be worn by both rider and passenger.

A quick check before riding: tyres, brakes, chain, lights, controls and fuel. It catches problems while you are still parked and safe.

The depth of the grooves in a tyre. Worn tread clears less water and grips poorly, so check it regularly and replace tyres before they are bald.

Tiredness that slows reactions, worsens judgment and can make you fall asleep. Stop, rest and drink water rather than trying to ride through it.