NSSCO Fashion and Fabrics 6153 flashcards

32 cards. Read the term and the definition here. The deck at the top of this page is optional.

Staple versus filament fibre

Staple fibres are short lengths such as cotton and wool that must be spun into yarn. Filament fibres are continuous strands such as silk and polyester filament and can be used directly.

Plain weave

The simplest weave where each weft yarn passes over one warp yarn and under the next. It is strong, firm and the least lustrous of the basic weaves.

Bias grain

The direction at 45 degrees to the selvedge and the lengthwise grain. Fabric stretches most on the bias, so bias-cut garments drape and need time to drop before hemming.

S-twist and Z-twist

The direction of yarn twist. S-twist spirals like the middle of the letter S; Z-twist spirals like the middle of Z. More twist gives a stronger, leaner yarn.

Mercerising

A finish applied to cotton under tension with caustic soda. It increases lustre, strength and dye uptake, giving a smoother, shinier cotton fabric.

Sanforising

A mechanical shrinking process applied to cotton fabric before sale. It reduces residual shrinkage so garments keep their size after washing.

Care label iron symbol

An iron shape with one dot means cool, two dots medium, three dots hot. A cross through the iron means do not iron, which applies to some synthetics and pile fabrics.

Colourfastness

The ability of a dyed fabric to keep its colour when washed, rubbed or exposed to light. Poor colourfastness causes dye to bleed onto lighter fabrics.

Wearing ease

The extra room added to a garment beyond body measurements so the wearer can move and breathe. It is separate from design ease, which creates the style silhouette.

Full bust adjustment

A pattern alteration that adds width and length over the bust by slashing the bodice and spreading it, then redrawing the darts so the garment fits a larger bust cup.

Toile

A trial garment sewn in inexpensive fabric to test fit and design before cutting the final fabric. Fitting changes are marked on the toile and transferred to the paper pattern.

Grain line on a pattern

A long arrow printed on each pattern piece. It must be placed parallel to the selvedge so the garment hangs correctly and does not twist.

Staystitching

A row of straight stitching worked just inside the seam line on curved edges such as necklines. It stabilises the fabric and prevents stretching during construction.

French seam

A seam that encloses the raw edges inside a double row of stitching. It is neat and strong, making it suitable for sheer or lightweight fabrics.

Clipping and notching

Clipping cuts into the seam allowance on inward curves; notching cuts small wedges out of the allowance on outward curves. Both let the seam lie flat when turned.

Seam allowance

The distance between the stitching line and the raw edge of the fabric. It is marked on the pattern and is commonly 1.5 cm for most garment seams.

Ballpoint needle

A sewing machine needle with a rounded point that pushes between knit loops instead of cutting them. It prevents laddering and dropped stitches in jersey fabrics.

Stitch tension

The balance between upper and lower thread tension. Correct tension locks the stitch in the middle of the fabric; loops underneath mean the upper thread needs rethreading or adjusting.

Tailor's ham

A firmly stuffed cushion shaped for pressing curved seams such as darts, shoulders and hips. Pressing over it preserves the shape of the garment.

Machine lint cleaning

Removing dust and fibre from the bobbin area and feed dogs. Regular cleaning prevents skipped stitches, jamming and overheating and is part of routine maintenance.

Complementary colour scheme

A scheme using two colours opposite each other on the colour wheel, such as red and green. It gives strong contrast and should be balanced by varying the amounts used.

Elements of design

Line, shape, colour, texture and space. These are the basic visual tools a designer combines, while balance, rhythm, proportion and emphasis are the principles applied to them.

Vertical lines in dress

Lines running up and down a garment, such as princess seams or long lapels. They draw the eye upward and create an impression of height and slimness.

Fashion cycle

The stages a style passes through: introduction, rise, peak, decline and obsolescence. Classics stay accepted across cycles while fads pass quickly.

The 3 Rs of textiles

Reduce by buying less and choosing quality, reuse by restyling and repairing garments, and recycle by returning textiles for fibre recovery rather than landfill.

Microfibre shedding

Tiny synthetic fibres released from fabrics such as polyester during washing. They pass through filters into waterways, so washing less often and using a filter bag helps.

OEKO-TEX certification

An independent certification showing that a textile product has been tested for harmful substances and meets limit values for chemicals hazardous to health.

Break-even point

The number of units a business must sell to cover all costs. It is calculated as fixed costs divided by selling price per unit minus variable cost per unit.

Cost-plus pricing

A pricing method where a mark-up is added to the total cost of materials, labour and overheads. It guarantees a profit margin if costs are calculated accurately.

Consumer rights on purchase

Goods must be of satisfactory quality, fit for their purpose and match their description. Receipts and care labels should be kept as proof of purchase.

Portfolio evidence

A record of project work including mood board, design sketches, fabric samples, toile, construction samples, final photographs and an evaluation linked to the brief.

Project evaluation

A written review of the finished project stating what worked, what did not, and what would be changed, with reference to the brief and construction decisions.