NSSCO Fashion and Fabrics 6153 key terms

The smallest hair-like unit from which yarns and fabrics are made. Fibres may be natural, such as cotton or wool, or manufactured, such as polyester, and their length and strength affect how the fabric behaves.

Short fibres measured in centimetres rather than metres, such as cotton, flax and wool. They must be twisted together to form a yarn, which is why staple fabrics pill and shed short fibres more than filament fabrics.

A very long continuous fibre, either natural like silk or manufactured like polyester, which can run the full length of a yarn. Filament yarns are smooth, strong and less likely to pill.

A continuous strand of twisted fibres or filaments suitable for knitting, weaving or sewing. The amount and direction of twist, and the thickness or count, determine the yarn's strength and texture.

The process of drawing out and twisting loose fibres into a continuous yarn. More twist gives a stronger, harder yarn; too little twist leaves a weak yarn that breaks easily during sewing.

The set of parallel lengthwise yarns held under tension on the loom during weaving. Warp yarns usually need more strength and twist than weft yarns because they bear the loom tension.

The crosswise yarns inserted over and under the warp during weaving, also called the filling. Weft direction runs from selvedge to selvedge and stretches less than the lengthwise grain.

The firmly woven self-finished edge running along both lengthwise sides of a woven fabric, which prevents fraying. It marks the lengthwise grain and is normally removed or hidden in a seam allowance.

A diagonal direction across a woven fabric at 45 degrees to the lengthwise and crosswise grains. Bias has the greatest stretch and is used for drape, cowl necks and bias binding.

The simplest interlacing in which each weft yarn passes alternately over and under one warp yarn. It is firm, stable and inexpensive, and is used for calico, poplin and most shirting fabrics.

A weave producing diagonal lines or ribs on the fabric surface because weft yarns float over two or more warp yarns. It is strong, drapes well and is used for denim and gabardine.

Fabric made by interlocking loops of yarn rather than interlacing straight threads. Knits stretch and recover, do not fray readily, and need stretch stitches and patterns designed for knit fabrics.

The amount a fabric contracts after washing or pressing, usually given as a percentage. Shrinkage must be allowed for by pre-shrinking fabric or adding extra length before cutting a garment.

Washing or steaming fabric before cutting so that most of its shrinkage happens before the garment is made. It prevents a finished garment from becoming too small after its first wash.

A permanent label inside a garment giving washing, drying, ironing and dry-cleaning instructions. Candidates must read it to choose suitable fabrics and to advise customers on correct aftercare.

The double-ended arrow printed on a pattern piece showing where it must be placed parallel to the lengthwise grain or selvedge. Ignoring it causes twisting, poor drape and garments that hang unevenly.

The symbols transferred from a paper pattern to fabric, including notches, darts, fold lines, buttonholes and grain lines. Accurate marking ensures pieces match and construction lines finish in the correct place.

A small mark cut into the seam allowance, or a pattern symbol, used to match two pieces accurately during sewing. Notches should be cut shallow so they do not weaken the seam.

Loose double thread stitches worked through pattern and fabric to transfer markings to both layers. They are ideal for delicate or dark fabrics that cannot be marked with chalk or pencil.

The strip of fabric between the stitching line and the raw edge, commonly 1.5 cm on commercial patterns. It must be added when drafting patterns and is trimmed, clipped or graded after stitching.

A small cut made into a seam allowance up to but not through the stitching line, allowing a curve to lie flat. Clipping is used on inward curves such as necklines and armholes.

Trimming the two layers of a seam allowance to different widths so the seam lies flat and bulk is reduced. The layer nearest the garment is usually trimmed wider than the facing layer.

A row of straight stitching worked just inside the seam line on a curved edge soon after cutting. It stabilises the edge and prevents it from stretching out of shape before the seam is sewn.

Temporary long stitches used to hold fabric layers or a seam in place before permanent machining. Tacking is removed after stitching and is useful on slippery, checked or very fine fabrics.

A wedge-shaped fold stitched to shape fabric around body curves such as the bust, waist or hips. Darts are marked accurately, stitched from the wide end to the point and pressed to one side.

Distributing a small amount of extra fabric along a seam so two edges of different lengths fit together smoothly, as at a sleeve head. Easing prevents puckers and is done without visible gathers.

Drawing up fabric on two rows of long machine stitches to create fullness, as in a gathered skirt or sleeve. The gathers are then distributed evenly and stitched to a flat piece.

Lifting and lowering the iron onto the fabric rather than sliding it, to set stitches and shape seams. Correct pressing opens seams flat and prevents stretched or shiny areas in the finished garment.

A small tool with a sharp curved blade and point used to cut and remove unwanted stitches without damaging the fabric. It is essential for correcting mistakes and for altering ready-made garments.

The removable needle that carries thread through the fabric. Its size and point type must match the fabric: fine needles for lightweight fabrics, heavy or ballpoint needles for denim and knits.

The distance between successive needle penetrations, set on the sewing machine. Short stitches suit fine fabrics and curves, longer stitches suit heavy fabrics and tacking.

The balance between upper and lower thread tightness on a sewing machine. Correct tension locks stitches inside the fabric; too tight upper tension pulls the bobbin thread to the surface.

The small spool that holds the lower thread inside the sewing machine. It must be wound evenly with the correct thread and inserted the right way round, or stitches loop and break.

A trial garment made in cheap fabric such as calico to test fit and design before cutting the final fabric. It allows adjustments to be marked and transferred back to the paper pattern.

Checking a garment or toile on the body to assess ease, balance, darts and seam positions. Adjustments are pinned and marked, then transferred to the pattern for a better final fit.

The extra room built into a garment beyond body measurements so the wearer can move and breathe. Wearing ease is essential; design ease is added for fashion effect such as a loose fit.

Changing a paper pattern to improve fit or design, for example lengthening a bodice or moving a dart. Alterations are made on the paper pattern, never only on the cut fabric.

A circular arrangement of colours showing primary, secondary and tertiary relationships. It helps candidates choose harmonious schemes such as complementary, analogous and monochromatic combinations for garments.

Pairs of colours opposite each other on the colour wheel, such as red and green or blue and orange. They create strong contrast and are used for emphasis, but can look harsh in equal amounts.

The lightness or darkness of a colour, independent of its hue. Value contrast between garment and skin or between fabric pieces affects how flattering and legible a design appears.

The surface quality of a fabric as seen or felt, such as smooth, ribbed, hairy or shiny. Texture affects drape, warmth and the visual weight of a design, and must suit the garment's purpose.

The way a fabric hangs and folds under its own weight. Soft fabrics drape closely to the body, while crisp fabrics hold shape, so drape must match the style of the pattern chosen.

The pleasing arrangement of design elements such as colour, line, shape and texture so that they work together. Harmony gives a garment unity and avoids a confused, cluttered appearance.

Items worn to reduce injury risk in the workroom, such as finger guards, thimbles, safety glasses and closed shoes. It must be used alongside safe habits, not as a substitute for them.

The rules and habits that prevent accidents in a sewing room, including tidy floors, guarded machines, unplugged irons and safe storage of pins and scissors. It protects the worker and the work.

Meeting present needs without harming the environment or exhausting resources for future generations. In textiles it includes choosing durable fabrics, reducing waste, reusing offcuts and mending garments.

Turning worn or unwanted garments and fabric scraps into new, higher-value products instead of discarding them. It reduces textile waste and can create unique saleable items for a small business.

Unwanted fabric, offcuts, thread and discarded clothing produced during making and consumption. Reducing waste through careful layout, reuse and recycling lowers cost and environmental impact.

Arranging pattern pieces on the fabric as closely as possible before cutting to use the least fabric. Good lay planning respects grain lines and nap, and reduces offcuts and production cost.

Working out the total cost of making a product, including materials, labour, overheads and a profit margin. Accurate costing allows a realistic selling price to be set and profit to be checked.

The amount a customer pays for a product. It must cover all production costs and the intended profit, while remaining acceptable to the target customer and competitive in the market.

The difference between the selling price and the total cost of a product, often expressed as a percentage of the selling price. It shows how much money the business keeps from each sale.

The particular group of customers a product is designed and marketed for, defined by age, income, lifestyle or location. Clear targeting guides design, price, fabric choice and promotion.

A person who identifies a market opportunity and organises resources, skills and risk to start and run a business. In fashion this may mean a small tailoring or dressmaking enterprise.

The legal protections buyers have, including safe goods, accurate information, fair prices and redress for faulty products. Sellers must give correct care and fibre information and honour guarantees.

An organised collection of a candidate's design work, samples, patterns and finished photographs showing progress and skills. It should include evidence of research, planning, evaluation and reflection.

A short written statement of the problem, target customer, purpose, budget and constraints for a project. It guides research and design decisions and is used later to evaluate the finished outcome.

A small stitched sample of a construction technique, mounted and labelled with its name and purpose. Seam samples provide evidence of practical skill and are usually included in the portfolio.

A small protective cap worn on the finger to push a hand needle through fabric without injury. It improves control and speed in hand sewing and is part of safe workshop practice.

Short sharpened metal fasteners used to hold fabric and pattern pieces in position temporarily. They should be placed inside seam lines, kept in a pin cushion and removed before machining.