Cutting, Marking and Garment Construction Techniques
What the exam tests
This domain tests safe, accurate cutting and construction: preparing fabric, laying out pattern pieces on grain, transferring markings, cutting cleanly, and assembling with suitable seams, darts, facings and hems.
Layout and marking rules
- Pre-shrink and press fabric before laying out. Straighten the crosswise grain by pulling a thread.
- Place pattern pieces with the grainline parallel to the selvedge. On nap or one-way prints, all pieces must run the same way.
- Use pins within seam allowances, not through the cutting line. Mark darts, notches and buttonholes with tailor’s tacks or chalk that brushes off.
- Cut with long, smooth shears strokes; do not lift the fabric. Notch outward, clip inward only where a seam needs to spread.
Construction
Darts give shape; stitch from the wide end to the point and tie ends. Seams: plain for firm fabrics, French for sheer, flat-fell for jeans. Stay-stitch curves before clipping. Interface facings and collars to prevent stretching. Press as you sew: press seams open or to one side, never drag the iron.
Worked example
A striped cotton shirt has a one-way design and a nap-like directional stripe. Lay all pattern pieces in the same direction, with the grainline parallel to the selvedge. If you flip the collar, the stripes will run opposite to the body. Cut the yoke on the crosswise grain only if the pattern says so, and match stripes at the centre front and pocket.
Traps
Ignoring grainline causes twisting and poor hang. Do not cut notches inward on a tight curve; clip later. Do not skip pressing, and do not use a French seam on a thick, bulky fabric.