NABTEB Cosmetology cheat sheet

Disinfection kills most pathogenic organisms on surfaces but does not reliably destroy bacterial spores; sterilisation (autoclave, 121 °C at 15 psi for 15–20 min) does.

Standard salon disinfectant contact times: quaternary ammonium compounds 10 min, 70% isopropyl alcohol 10 min, 5.25% sodium hypochlorite diluted 1:10 for blood spills 10 min.

Blood and body-fluid spill protocol: wear gloves, absorb with disposable towel, flood with 1:10 bleach for 10 min, bag waste as biohazard, wash hands.

Material porosity rule: porous items (towels, emery boards, wooden spatulas) cannot be disinfected reliably and must be single-use or discarded; only hard non-porous tools are disinfectable.

Hand washing with soap and running water for at least 20 seconds is required before and after each client; alcohol gel is not a substitute when hands are visibly soiled.

Salon ventilation standard: local exhaust at manicure stations and adequate general ventilation to keep airborne vapour and dust below occupational exposure limits; methyl methacrylate monomer is a recognised sensitiser.

Hepatitis B, hepatitis C and HIV are the key bloodborne pathogens in barbering and nail work; hepatitis B survives on dry surfaces for at least 7 days.

Electrical safety: RCD (earth-leakage) protection on salon circuits, no water near sockets, and portable appliance testing at intervals set by the manufacturer or local regulation.

Cutting shears are sized in inches (4.5–7 in); the blade length equals the cutting edge, and convex-edge shears are for slide cutting, bevel-edge for blunt cutting.

Thinning shears have one cutting blade and one comb blade; a 44-tooth model removes roughly 40–50% of hair in the section, a 28-tooth model about 25–30%.

Clipper blade sizes follow the rule: higher number = shorter cut. A No. 1 blade leaves 1/8 in (about 3 mm), No. 2 leaves 1/4 in, No. 0 leaves 1/16 in.

Guard sizes on detachable clipper blades: No. 0 = 1/16 in, No. 1 = 1/8 in, No. 2 = 1/4 in, No. 3 = 3/8 in, No. 4 = 1/2 in of hair left.

Thermal styling tools: curling irons and flat irons operate 120–230 °C; fine, damaged or chemically relaxed hair should be held at the lower end to avoid protein denaturation and cuticle cracking.

Blade care: oil clipper blades before and after each use with clipper oil, brush out hair, and never use water or disinfectant immersion on carbon-steel blades because they rust.

Implements are disinfected after every client; shears are cleaned with a blade wash or alcohol wipe, dried, oiled at the pivot, and stored closed.

UV cabinets are not a recognised substitute for chemical disinfection of implements; they are storage only.

Hair is about 90% keratin protein; the cortex holds melanin and moisture, the medulla is absent in fine hair, and the cuticle has 6–10 overlapping layers.

pH scale: hair and scalp sit at pH 4.5–5.5; shampoo is typically pH 4.5–6.5; alkaline chemical relaxers run pH 9–14; acid-balanced products close the cuticle.

The isoelectric point of hair is about pH 3.67; below it the fibre has minimum swelling and maximum tensile strength.

Normal hair wet tensile strength is about 1.2–1.5 g/denier; wet hair stretches 30–50% before breaking, dry hair only 20–30%.

Chemical relaxer strength: no-lye (calcium hydroxide + guanidine) is milder for sensitive scalp; lye (sodium hydroxide) gives smoother straightening and is faster.

Hydrogen peroxide developer volumes: 10 vol = 3%, 20 vol = 6%, 30 vol = 9%, 40 vol = 12%; 20 vol lifts 1–2 levels, 30 vol 2–3, 40 vol 3–4.

Colour wheel: yellow neutralises violet, blue neutralises orange, red neutralises green; complementary colours sit opposite each other.

Shampooing sequence: wet, emulsify shampoo in palm, massage scalp with fingertips (not nails), rinse until water runs clear, then condition mid-lengths to ends.

Fade families: low fade (starts at the ear/nape), mid fade (starts at the temple), high fade (starts above the parietal ridge), and bald fade (skin at the bottom).

Clipper-over-comb technique: comb holds hair out from the scalp and the clipper cuts against the comb teeth; used to blend from short to longer lengths.

Guard and blade numbering rule: the smaller the number, the shorter the hair left; clipper guards and blade sizes are not interchangeable between brands.

Straight-razor shaving: the blade is held at about 30° to the skin, stretched skin gives a closer shave, and the razor is stropped before use to realign the edge.

Hot towel preparation softens the beard by hydrating keratin and relaxing the piloerector muscles; the towel is applied for 3–5 minutes before lathering.

Beard shapes: full beard, goatee, Van Dyke (moustache plus separate chin beard), Balbo (connected moustache and chin, no sideburns), chinstrap, and mutton chop.

Shaving against the grain gives the closest result but raises the risk of ingrown hairs and razor burn; with-the-grain is the safe first pass.

Aftershave with alcohol is astringent and can sting freshly shaved skin; alcohol-free balms suit sensitive or dry skin.

Nail plate composition: about 80% keratin, 15–20% water, plus lipids and minerals; the nail plate is 0.3–0.5 mm thick and grows about 3 mm (1/8 in) per month.

Nail anatomy: matrix (growth area), lunula (visible whitish half-moon), eponychium (living cuticle), hyponychium (seal under the free edge), nail bed, and lateral nail folds.

Fingernails grow faster than toenails; toenails take 9–12 months to replace fully, fingernails 4–6 months.

Nail shapes: square, squoval, oval, almond, stiletto, coffin/ballerina, and round; the shape is chosen by nail-bed width and length.

Acrylic (liquid-and-powder) ratio: about 1.5 parts powder to 1 part monomer by volume; a wet ratio shrinks and lifts, a dry ratio is brittle.

Gel polish curing: UV lamps cure in 2–3 minutes, LED lamps in 30–60 seconds; the photoinitiator responds to the lamp wavelength, so gel and lamp must match.

Nail disorders to refer out: paronychia (bacterial/fungal fold infection), onychomycosis (fungal plate), onycholysis (plate separation), and green Pseudomonas staining.

Pedicure water temperature is 37–40 °C; implements are disinfected between clients, and single-use files and buffers are discarded after each client.

Skin layers: epidermis (stratum corneum, granulosum, spinosum, basale), dermis (collagen, elastin, capillaries), and hypodermis (fat).

Skin types: normal, dry, oily, combination, and sensitive; Fitzpatrick phototypes I–VI classify sun response and guide treatment intensity.

Cleansing, exfoliation, extraction, massage, mask, and moisturiser form the standard facial sequence; extractions follow softening with warm steam for 5–10 minutes.

Facial massage movements: effleurage (gliding), petrissage (kneading), tapotement (tapping), friction, and vibration; all work upward and outward.

Make-up colour correction: green cancels redness, peach/orange cancels blue-grey, yellow cancels purple, lavender cancels sallow yellow tones.

Foundation shade is matched at the jawline in natural light; undertone is cool (pink/blue), warm (yellow/gold), or neutral.

Alpha hydroxy acids (glycolic, lactic) exfoliate at pH 3–4; beta hydroxy acid (salicylic) is lipid-soluble and suited to oily, acne-prone skin.

Sunscreen: SPF 30 blocks about 97% of UVB, SPF 50 about 98%; broad-spectrum means UVA and UVB protection.

Human hair has about 100,000–150,000 strands on the scalp; the growth cycle is anagen (2–7 years), catagen (2–3 weeks), and telogen (about 3 months).

The three main skin layers, the three hair layers (cuticle, cortex, medulla), and the nail plate are all keratin-based structures; keratin is a fibrous protein with disulfide, hydrogen, salt, and peptide bonds.

Chemical bonds: disulfide bonds are broken by relaxers and perms; hydrogen bonds are broken by water and reset by heat; salt bonds respond to pH change.

A pH of 7 is neutral; each whole unit is a tenfold change in hydrogen-ion concentration.

Emulsions combine oil and water with an emulsifier; oil-in-water (O/W) lotions are light and non-greasy, water-in-oil (W/O) creams are richer.

Surfactants have a hydrophilic head and a lipophilic tail; the tail lifts oil and the head holds it in water so it rinses away.

The skin is the body's largest organ; it synthesises vitamin D, regulates temperature, and acts as a barrier via the acid mantle.

Cosmetic product label rules: ingredients are listed in descending order of concentration, with the first five typically making up most of the formula.

Service pricing formula: price = direct material cost + labour cost + allocated overhead + target profit margin; labour cost uses the stylist's hourly rate times service time.

Retail product pricing typically uses keystone (double the wholesale cost) or a 2.5–3× markup for professional lines.

Client consultation record: name, contact, patch-test date, formula (product, developer, timing), and any allergies; retain for the period required by local law.

Patch test for oxidative colour: apply a small amount behind the ear or inner elbow 48 hours before the first application; a positive reaction (redness, swelling, itching) cancels the service.

Business structures: sole proprietorship, partnership, limited liability company, and corporation; registration, tax, and licensing requirements are set by local law.

Ethics: informed consent, confidentiality of client records, honest product claims, no hidden charges, and referral of medical conditions to a doctor.

Client care: greet, consult, confirm expectations, explain aftercare, and rebook; complaints are handled with listening, acknowledgement, remedy, and a written record.

Salon station setup: trolley on the working side, tools laid out in order of use, clean towel on the client, and waste bin within reach.

Gowning and protection: neck strip plus cape for hair services; gloves for colour, relaxers, and nail work; apron or tunic kept clean and changed when soiled.

Sectioning and parting: hair is divided into four quadrants, then subsections no wider than the tool being used; clean partings control tension and balance.

Draping sequence: towel around the neck, neck strip, then cape over the towel so no fabric touches bare skin.

Client safety checks before any service: allergy history, scalp or skin lesions, recent chemical services, and patch-test status.

Professional conduct: punctuality, no eating or phone use on the salon floor, no diagnosis of skin or scalp disease, and no service outside the scope of training.

Waste segregation: sharps in a rigid sharps container, chemical waste per local regulation, and general waste bagged and removed at the end of the shift.

Hand-over and record keeping: note the service, products, timings, and any reactions in the client record at the end of the appointment.

Material Safety Data Sheet (SDS) sections cover identification, hazards, first aid, firefighting, accidental release, handling, exposure controls, physical properties, stability, toxicology, disposal, transport, and regulation.

Personal protective equipment hierarchy: elimination, substitution, engineering controls, administrative controls, then PPE as the last line of defence.

Chemical storage: oxidisers (peroxide) separated from flammables and from acids; containers kept closed, labelled, and off the floor.

First aid for chemical splash in the eye: irrigate with clean water for at least 15 minutes and seek medical help; do not neutralise with another chemical.

Salon fire safety: CO2 extinguisher for electrical fires, water for paper and fabric, never water on live electrical equipment.

Occupational skin disease in hairdressers is most often irritant or allergic contact dermatitis from wet work, shampoos, and colour; gloves and moisturiser reduce risk.

Manual handling: keep the client at a height that avoids stooping, adjust the chair, and take breaks from repetitive cutting and blow-drying to prevent musculoskeletal injury.

Waste and environmental rules: leftover colour, peroxide, and acetone are not poured down the drain; they go to licensed chemical waste collection.

Disinfection records should show date, product, dilution, contact time, and the person responsible; these are the evidence base for inspection.

Sharps and blood-exposure incidents are logged with the date, the person involved, the exposure route, and the action taken.

Sterilisation monitoring uses biological indicators (spore tests) and chemical indicator strips; a steriliser without monitoring is not verified.

Local licensing usually requires a current certificate of registration, a fire certificate, and evidence of staff training in infection control.

Client records with personal data are protected under data-protection law; keep only what is needed and store securely.

Insurance: public liability and professional indemnity cover protect against client injury and claims arising from services.

Staff immunisation against hepatitis B is recommended for anyone exposed to blood or body fluids at work.

Inspection readiness: checklists, dated cleaning schedules, and labelled chemical containers are the usual items checked on a salon visit.

Ammonia in colour and bleach is an irritant; keep the mixing area ventilated and never mix in a closed room.

Persulfate bleach powders are respiratory sensitisers; measure with a scoop, avoid raising dust, and wear a mask when mixing large batches.

Acetone and other solvents are flammable; keep away from open flame and hot tools, and store in a closed metal cabinet.

Methyl methacrylate (MMA) monomer is banned in many jurisdictions for nail enhancements because of sensitisation; use ethyl methacrylate (EMA) products instead.

Formaldehyde in some keratin treatments is a carcinogen and sensitiser; products must be used per label and only with adequate extraction.

Nail dust from filing is a respiratory irritant; use a local exhaust ventilation unit at the table and a dust mask if needed.

Hot tools cause contact burns; test the temperature on a heat-resistant surface and keep cords away from water and walkways.

Electrical equipment near water: use socket covers, RCD protection, and never operate a plugged-in appliance with wet hands.

Two-tier decontamination: cleaning removes visible soil, then disinfection or sterilisation destroys pathogens; skipping cleaning reduces disinfectant efficacy.

Disinfectant choice depends on the organism: quaternary ammonium for general surfaces, bleach for blood spills, glutaraldehyde for heat-sensitive semi-critical items.

Single-use items include emery boards, orange sticks, cotton pads, spatulas, and razor blades; they are never reused between clients.

Reusable tools are washed with soap and water, dried, then immersed in disinfectant for the full contact time, then rinsed and dried before storage.

Towels and capes are laundered at high temperature (at least 60 °C) with detergent; soiled linen is bagged separately.

Foot spas are drained, cleaned, and disinfected after each client; the internal pipework is flushed per manufacturer instructions to prevent biofilm.

Salon hand-washing stations need soap, running water, and disposable towels; shared cloth towels are not acceptable.

Personal hygiene: clean uniform, tied-back hair, short nails, no jewellery on hands during services, and no eating in the service area.

Neutral working posture: feet flat, elbows near 90°, wrists straight, and the client at a height that avoids bending the back.

Repetitive strain in hairdressing comes from scissors work, blow-drying, and nail filing; rotate tasks and stretch between clients.

Anti-fatigue mats and adjustable chairs reduce standing and seated strain during long services.

Noise from dryers and clippers should be kept below the level at which conversation is difficult; hearing protection is used where noise is sustained.

Lighting should be bright and shadow-free at the station; poor light increases eye strain and cutting errors.

Hydration, breaks, and hand care prevent occupational dermatitis and fatigue in a full appointment book.

Ventilation and extraction remove fumes, dust, and heat; a stuffy salon is a sign the extraction is inadequate.

Incident reporting: near misses, burns, cuts, and slips are recorded so the cause can be fixed, not just the symptom.

Informed consent is obtained before chemical services, and the client is told the realistic result, the risks, and the aftercare.

Patch testing is documented; a test done on one visit does not cover a different brand or formula used later.

Contraindications to chemical services: open scalp lesions, recent bleach or relaxer, a positive patch test, and a history of severe reaction.

Client allergy history is taken at every visit, not only the first, because sensitisation can develop after years of use.

Metal and electrical equipment is kept away from the client's face and neck; hot tools are never left on the trolley edge.

Slips and trips: spills are wiped immediately, floors kept dry, and walkways free of cords and bags.

Client confidentiality covers medical information, photographs, and service records; images are used only with written permission.

Referral rule: a suspicious mole, persistent scalp sore, or nail discolouration is referred to a medical professional, not treated in the salon.

Emergency action plan: raise the alarm, evacuate by the nearest exit, assemble at the meeting point, and account for staff and clients.

Fire extinguisher PASS: Pull the pin, Aim at the base, Squeeze the handle, Sweep side to side.

Chemical burn on skin: remove contaminated clothing, flush with cool running water for at least 15 minutes, and seek medical advice.

Fainting client: lay flat, raise the legs, loosen tight clothing, and ensure fresh air; do not give food or drink until conscious.

Allergic reaction with breathing difficulty is an emergency: call emergency services and follow the client's own action plan if one exists.

Cuts from blades or shears: apply pressure with a clean dressing, elevate, and cover; report and record the incident.

Electrical shock: switch off the supply before touching the casualty, then call for help.

First-aid kit contents: sterile dressings, adhesive plasters, eye wash, disposable gloves, burn gel, and a current first-aider list.

New staff are inducted on infection control, chemical handling, fire procedure, and emergency response before working unsupervised.

Competence is assessed by observation against a checklist, then recorded with the date and the assessor's name.

Refresher training is scheduled at intervals set by local regulation or the product manufacturer; records are kept.

Supervision of trainees is continuous until the trainee is signed off for the specific service.

Manufacturer instructions for mixing, contact time, and storage are followed exactly; improvisation voids the product warranty and safety data.

Safety signage (no smoking, fire exit, eye-wash point) is displayed and kept legible.

Staff are trained to refuse a service outside their competence and to refer the client on.

Audits of hand hygiene, disinfection, and chemical storage are done at planned intervals and the results are acted on.

Product shelf life after opening is shown by the PAO symbol (an open jar with a number of months); expired product is discarded.

Containers are kept closed, labelled with the contents and date, and never decanted into unlabelled bottles.

Bleach and colour are mixed in a well-ventilated area, with the correct ratio, in a clean non-metallic bowl.

Leftover mixed colour and peroxide are treated as chemical waste and not returned to the original container.

Aerosol sprays are used away from the face and flame, with the salon ventilated.

Water quality matters for shampooing and foot spas; filters and pipework are cleaned on a schedule.

Waste segregation at source: general, recyclable, chemical, and clinical/biohazard streams are kept separate.

Environmental policy: reduce single-use plastics where safe, use concentrated products, and follow local disposal rules.

Five-step risk assessment: identify the hazard, decide who may be harmed and how, evaluate the risk and controls, record the findings, and review and update.

Risk rating = likelihood × severity; controls are applied to bring the rating down to an acceptable level.

Hazard types in a salon: chemical, biological, physical, ergonomic, electrical, fire, and psychosocial.

Control measures are ranked: eliminate, substitute, engineer, administrate, then PPE.

Risk assessments are reviewed after an incident, a change of product, or a change of premises.

Young workers, pregnant staff, and clients with allergies may need specific additional controls.

Records of assessments and reviews are kept for inspection.

A written assessment is only useful if staff are trained on it and it is actually followed.

A salon inspection typically checks hand-wash facilities, disinfection records, chemical storage, waste disposal, and staff training.

A cleaning schedule names the area, the frequency, the product, and the person responsible; it is signed and dated.

Colour-coded cleaning cloths prevent cross-contamination between toilet, general, and food areas.

Surfaces are cleaned before disinfection; visible soil blocks the disinfectant from reaching the organism.

High-touch points (door handles, chair arms, taps, card machine) are cleaned more often than floors and walls.

A written non-compliance log records what was found, what was done, and when it was closed out.

Client complaints about hygiene are investigated and the outcome is recorded.

Good hygiene is demonstrated, not just documented: the station, the tools, and the staff are the evidence.

Employers have a duty of care to staff and clients: safe premises, safe systems of work, training, and supervision.

Employees have a duty to take reasonable care of themselves and others and to report hazards.

COSHH-type rules require an assessment of hazardous substances used at work and access to safety data sheets.

RIDDOR-type rules require reporting of specified injuries, occupational diseases, and dangerous occurrences.

Public liability insurance is not a substitute for safe practice; it covers claims after the event.

Licensing conditions for the premises are displayed and complied with.

Records of training, accidents, and risk assessments are retained for the period set by local law.

Failure to comply can lead to enforcement action, prohibition of the activity, or prosecution.

Chemical waste (colour, peroxide, acetone, monomer) goes to licensed collection, not the drain.

Aerosol cans are punctured only by licensed waste contractors, never on site.

Recycling of cardboard, glass, and plastics is separated at the point of generation.

Energy use is reduced by switching off tools and lights when not in use and by maintaining equipment.

Water use is reduced by fixing leaks and using efficient foot-spa filling.

Single-use items are replaced with reusable, disinfectable alternatives only where infection control allows.

Suppliers are chosen with take-back schemes for empty containers where available.

Sustainability targets are recorded and reviewed alongside safety targets.

Safety data sheets are accessible to all staff at the point of use, not locked in an office.

Hazard labels on decanted containers show the product name, the hazard symbol, and the date decanted.

Staff are briefed on a new product before its first use, including mixing, contact time, and first aid.

Clients are warned about the smell, heat, and aftercare of chemical services before the service starts.

Emergency contact numbers are displayed at the reception and in the staff area.

Signage for fire exits, eye wash, and first aid is unobstructed and lit.

Incident lessons are shared at team meetings so the same mistake is not repeated.

Clear communication is a control measure: an uninformed client cannot give valid consent.

Quality assurance checks that the service meets the agreed standard, not just that it was completed.

Client feedback is collected, reviewed, and used to change practice.

Internal audits sample client records, disinfection logs, and staff training files.

Corrective action is recorded with an owner and a due date.

Supplier approval includes checks on product safety data and traceability.

Complaints are trended to find the underlying cause.

Continuous improvement is planned, not accidental: set a target, measure it, and review.

Accreditation schemes require evidence of all of the above, kept current.

Work only within your training and licence; refer medical, legal, and financial questions to the appropriate professional.

Do not diagnose skin, scalp, or nail disease; describe what you see and refer.

Do not promise a result that the hair or skin cannot support.

Respect the client's right to refuse a service or to stop mid-service.

Keep personal opinions and conflicts out of the service.

Do not disclose client information to third parties without consent.

Declare any conflict of interest when recommending products.

Maintain professional boundaries in conversation and physical contact.

Client consultation cards record the service, formula, timings, and any reaction.

Patch-test records show the date, product, and result.

Disinfection logs show the date, product, dilution, contact time, and initials.

Accident records show the date, time, people involved, injury, and action taken.

Training records show the course, date, and assessor.

Risk assessments show the review date and the reviewer.

Records are legible, signed, dated, and stored securely.

Records are kept for the period required by local law and then securely destroyed.