NH Cosmetology flashcards
NH Cosmetology · Build recall with a focused review session.
32 cards. Read the term and the definition here. The deck at the top of this page is optional.
- Cortex
- Middle layer of the hair shaft that contains melanin and the disulfide bonds; it provides strength, elasticity, and most of the hair's color and chemical response.
- Cuticle layer
- Outer overlapping scale layer of the hair shaft that protects the cortex; when intact it resists chemicals, and when lifted it allows color and wave solutions to enter.
- Disulfide bond
- Strong side bond between sulfur atoms in the cortex; broken by relaxers and permanent wave solutions and re-formed during neutralization to lock in the new shape.
- Porosity test
- Assessment of how readily hair absorbs and retains moisture; low porosity resists penetration, high porosity absorbs quickly but loses moisture and needs gentler products.
- Elasticity test
- Stretch a wet strand to judge cortex strength; healthy hair stretches about half its length and returns, while poor elasticity warns against chemical services.
- Anagen phase
- Active growth stage of the hair cycle lasting two to seven years, during which the follicle produces new hair; most scalp hairs are in this phase.
- Solid form cut
- Cutting with zero elevation and natural fall so all hair lengths meet at one perimeter line; produces a heavy, blunt outline with maximum weight.
- Graduated cut
- Cut with stacked elevation so shorter layers build on longer ones; creates weight and volume near the perimeter, often seen in stacked bobs.
- Stationary guide
- A fixed section of hair that all other sections are cut to; keeps the length consistent and is used for solid and uniform layer cuts.
- Traveling guide
- A guide that moves forward as each section is cut; the previous section becomes the reference for the next, producing blended, layered lengths.
- Cross-checking
- Cutting a completed section again from a perpendicular direction to confirm balance, even weight, and symmetry before finishing the haircut.
- Face shape balance
- Matching volume and length to face shape; add width to long faces, height to round faces, and minimize width where the face is already wide.
- Developer volume
- Concentration of hydrogen peroxide in a color formula; 10 volume deposits only, 20 lifts one to two levels, and 30 to 40 lift more with greater damage.
- Color wheel neutralization
- Rule that opposite colors cancel; blue cancels orange, violet cancels yellow, and green cancels red, used to tone or correct unwanted warmth.
- Strand test
- Processing a small section of the client's hair with the intended formula to check timing, lift, and color result before applying to the full head.
- Patch test
- Applying a small amount of color or chemical product to skin 24 to 48 hours before service to detect an allergic reaction.
- Thio relaxer
- Relaxer with a pH around 9 to 10 that breaks disulfide bonds and is neutralized with an acid-balanced shampoo; used for normal hair texture.
- Hydroxide relaxer
- Strong alkaline relaxer (lye or no-lye) with pH 12 to 14 that straightens hair without a separate neutralizer; not compatible with thio products.
- Test curl
- Checking a small wound rod during a permanent wave to confirm the desired S-shape has formed; determines when to rinse and neutralize.
- Epidermis
- Outermost, avascular skin layer made of keratinized cells; it provides the barrier and is the layer most affected by cleansing and exfoliation.
- Dermis
- Middle skin layer containing nerves, blood vessels, glands, collagen, and elastin; it supplies nutrients and gives skin strength and elasticity.
- Skin types
- Classification as normal, dry, oily, combination, or sensitive based on sebum, moisture, pore size, and reactivity; guides product and treatment selection.
- Fitzpatrick scale
- Six-category scale of skin response to sun exposure; types I and II burn easily and need higher SPF and cautious light-based treatment settings.
- Humectant
- Ingredient such as glycerin that draws water into the skin or hair; supports hydration but needs an occlusive layer to prevent moisture loss.
- Extraction contraindication
- Active acne, inflammation, open lesions, or recent waxing; avoid extraction and massage in these areas and refer to a physician when uncertain.
- Nail matrix
- Growth area beneath the nail fold that produces the nail plate; damage here causes ridges, thinning, or permanent nail deformity.
- Lunula
- Pale half-moon at the base of the nail plate; it is the visible portion of the matrix and is not cut or pushed aggressively during manicure.
- Eponychium
- Living skin fold at the base of the nail that seals the nail bed; it must not be cut during manicure because breaking the seal invites infection.
- Onycholysis
- Separation of the nail plate from the nail bed, often from trauma, moisture, or aggressive filing; service is avoided over the affected area.
- Paronychia
- Bacterial or fungal inflammation of the tissue around the nail, with redness, swelling, and pain; it is a contraindication for nail services.
- Disinfection
- Use of an EPA-registered hospital-grade product to destroy most pathogens on nonporous implements; follow the label contact time, often ten minutes.
- Single-use items
- Porous tools such as files, buffers, and wooden sticks that cannot be properly disinfected; they are discarded after one client.