Hair Cutting and Styling
This domain tests the geometry of cutting and the physics of styling. Questions cover elevation, guides, sectioning, tension, blunt and layered forms, wet versus dry cutting, and thermal and wet-set styling safety.
Cutting fundamentals
- Elevation controls shape: 0° builds a blunt, solid form; 45° creates graduation; 90° produces uniform layers; 180° creates long layers.
- A stationary guide stays fixed while subsequent sections follow it; a traveling guide moves with each section.
- Clean sectioning and consistent tension prevent uneven lines. Cut wet hair with awareness that it shrinks as it dries.
Styling fundamentals
- Wet sets use rollers or pin curls; roller diameter controls curl size, and base placement controls volume.
- Blow-drying with a round brush builds root lift; direct airflow down the strand smooths the cuticle.
- Thermal irons should match hair texture and condition. Use a heat protectant, test iron temperature, and avoid holding heat on one spot.
Worked example
A client with fine, straight hair wants more volume but wants to keep length. Reasoning: 180° long layers preserve length but add little volume; 90° uniform layers remove weight and create movement. You choose 90° elevation with a traveling guide, then blow-dry the roots with a round brush. You avoid heavy styling product that would collapse the root lift.
Traps that cost marks
- Mixing up elevation angles and the shapes they create.
- Ignoring tension: uneven tension creates uneven lines.
- Cutting wet hair without allowing for shrinkage.
- Using high iron heat on fine or compromised hair.
- Forgetting that roller size, not setting time alone, determines curl size.