NJ Cosmetology cheat sheet

Elevation 0° produces a blunt, one-length cut; 45° graduated; 90° uniform layers; 180° long-layered shape.

Horizontal cutting lines build weight; vertical lines remove weight; diagonal lines blend between sections.

A cowlick is a growth pattern that lifts or swirls; cutting with the growth and styling against it controls the result.

Texturizing shears remove bulk without changing the perimeter length; point cutting softens ends and blends weight.

Blunt perimeters carry the most visual weight; graduated and layered perimeters reduce weight at the ends.

Hydrogen bonds are broken by water and heat and re-form on cooling, which is why a cool shot sets a blow-dry style.

Thermal curling changes hair shape temporarily through heat and tension; moisture or humidity reverses the set.

Density is hairs per square inch; texture is diameter; porosity is ability to absorb moisture; each changes tool and product choice.

Chemical texture services break disulfide bonds; relaxers straighten and perms create curl or wave.

Relaxers are alkaline, commonly sodium hydroxide (lye) or no-lye guanidine/lithium hydroxide; thio relaxers use ammonium thioglycolate.

Perm lotion pH ranges from acid (about 4.5-7) to alkaline (about 7.8-9.5); stronger alkalinity generally speeds processing.

Neutralizer is an oxidizing agent that rebuilds disulfide bonds and stops the chemical action; incomplete neutralization leaves hair weak.

A patch test checks skin allergy; a strand test predicts processing time and result; both precede chemical texture services.

Relaxer strength (mild, regular, super) is selected from hair texture, resistance, and previous chemical history, not from desired style alone.

Metallic salts, fresh lightening, and compromised scalp skin are contraindications to relaxer or perm services.

Base cream protects scalp and skin from relaxer; no-base relaxers require precise application and monitoring.

Hair color levels run 1 (black) through 10 (lightest blonde); each level represents a degree of lightness/darkness.

Developer volumes: 10 volume = 3% peroxide, 20 = 6%, 30 = 9%, 40 = 12%; higher volume lifts more and adds more risk.

Primary colors are yellow, red, blue; secondary are orange, green, violet; complementary pairs neutralize unwanted tones.

Green neutralizes red, blue neutralizes orange, and violet neutralizes yellow on the color wheel.

A fill replaces missing pigment before darkening or toning; without it, hair can appear muddy or green.

Lighteners lift natural and artificial pigment; off-the-scalp application reduces scalp irritation and permits higher lift.

A patch test for aniline hair color is performed 24-48 hours before the service according to product directions.

Retouch applications cover new growth only; pulling lightener through previously lightened hair causes breakage and overlapping.

The pH scale runs 0-14; hair and skin are mildly acidic near pH 4.5-5.5, and high-pH products raise the cuticle.

Surfactants have a water-attracting head and oil-attracting tail; they lift sebum and debris so water can rinse them away.

Clarifying shampoos remove buildup and minerals but can strip color and moisture; they are not for every wash.

Humectants attract water, proteins temporarily fill gaps, and emollients smooth and add shine to hair.

Hot water and aggressive shampooing increase cuticle swelling and color loss; cooler rinses help preserve shine.

Scalp massage uses effleurage and petrissage; it is contraindicated for contagious conditions, open lesions, or inflamed scalp.

Dandruff is a scaling scalp condition often treated with medicated shampoo; persistent or inflamed cases are referred.

Conditioner is applied mainly to midshaft and ends; heavy product at the scalp can weigh hair down and clog follicles.

The nail plate is made of keratin and is produced by the matrix; the nail bed lies beneath the plate.

The cuticle seals the nail fold; living tissue should not be cut, and nippers are used only on loose hangnails or nonliving tissue.

Natural nails are filed in one direction with a fine-grit file to reduce splitting and peeling.

Nail shapes include square, squoval, oval, round, almond, and coffin; shape is chosen for strength and hand appearance.

A standard manicure sequence is shape, cuticle care, massage, base coat, polish, and top coat.

Paronychia (red, swollen nail fold) and onychomycosis (fungal infection) are referred; service is not performed on infected tissue.

Nonporous implements are cleaned, then disinfected with an EPA-registered hospital disinfectant; porous items are single-use.

Skin types are normal, oily, dry, combination, and sensitive; product selection follows the type and current condition.

A basic facial sequence includes cleansing, exfoliation, massage, mask, moisturizer, and sun protection.

The acid mantle is mildly acidic (about pH 5.5) and protects skin; harsh alkaline cleansers disrupt it.

Fitzpatrick skin types I-VI describe UV response; types I-II burn easily and need stricter sun protection.

Massage movements include effleurage, petrissage, tapotement, and friction; each has a different pressure and purpose.

Extraction is limited to suitable comedones; inflamed pustules, cysts, and broken skin are not manipulated.

Facial services are contraindicated over contagious lesions, severe inflammation, recent peels, or open skin.

Cleaning removes visible debris; disinfection kills most pathogens on surfaces; sterilization destroys all microorganisms including spores.

Noncritical items contact intact skin and require cleaning/disinfection; semicritical contact mucous membranes; critical penetrate skin and require sterilization.

An EPA-registered hospital disinfectant with tuberculocidal claim is used for blood or body-fluid contamination.

Hands are washed with soap and water for at least 20 seconds before and after each client and after glove removal.

Single-use items are discarded after one client; reusable tools are cleaned and disinfected after every client.

Double-dipping a used applicator or brush contaminates the product container and is prohibited.

SDS provides hazard, handling, and emergency information; chemicals are kept labeled and stored away from heat.

Blood spills are handled with gloves and an EPA-registered disinfectant; contaminated waste is disposed of per facility rules.

The New Jersey Board of Cosmetology and Hairstyling, within the Division of Consumer Affairs, licenses and regulates cosmetology and hairstyling.

A person may not perform cosmetology or hairstyling services for compensation without a valid New Jersey license.

A salon must hold a current shop license; the license is displayed and is not transferable to another owner or location.

Licenses are individual and may not be lent, borrowed, or used by another person.

Licensees must follow Board sanitation rules and must refuse services when a client has a contagious condition or open infected skin.

A licensee must keep Board-required records and notify the Board of changes required by rule, such as address or employment information.

Board rules prohibit false or misleading advertising and require services to be performed within the scope of the license held.

Revenue equals price multiplied by quantity sold; profit equals revenue minus all fixed and variable expenses.

Retail price is cost multiplied by markup; gross profit is retail price minus product cost.

Service price must cover product cost, time, overhead, and profit margin, not just competitor pricing.

A consultation records client history, contraindications, desired result, and patch/strand tests before service.

Appointment scheduling uses service duration plus cleanup/buffer time; cancellation policies protect revenue.

Inventory par level is the minimum stock that triggers reorder; FIFO rotation uses oldest stock first.

Booth rental pays fixed rent; commission pays a percentage of service revenue; each changes owner control and risk.

Client records are confidential; sharing without consent can violate privacy and professional standards.