NJ Cosmetology key terms

The angle at which a section of hair is held away from the head while cutting. Holding hair at 90 degrees creates layered lengths, while zero degrees produces a one-length result.

A cutting technique in which lengths build up in stacked layers, usually created by holding the hair at a slight elevation so each section ends up shorter than the one beneath it.

A cut in which all the hair is trimmed along a single line with no elevation, producing a solid one-length perimeter and a heavier weight line at the ends.

Cutting or thinning methods that remove bulk, soften weight lines, or add movement inside a shape, using shears, razors, or thinning shears without changing the overall length.

Dividing the hair into clean, controlled subsections with clips or bands before cutting, coloring, or styling, so that each area can be worked evenly and consistently.

Shaping hair with a heated iron or similar tool. The hair is wrapped around the barrel, held for a set time, then released so it cools while holding the new curl pattern.

A chemical service that uses a strong alkaline product, such as sodium hydroxide or guanidine, to break side bonds in curly hair and permanently straighten it. Careful timing and scalp protection are required.

A low-pH product applied after a relaxer to stop chemical processing and rebuild the disulfide bonds in the new straight shape. It must remain on the hair for the full manufacturer's time.

A check made during a chemical texture service in which a small strand is unrolled and examined to see whether the desired amount of straightening or curl has been reached.

How much of the scalp or previously relaxed hair is protected during a relaxer application. Base cream or a scalp-based application pattern limits irritation and prevents overprocessing.

A relaxer built on ammonium thioglycolate, the same active ingredient used in permanent waves. It has a milder pH than hydroxide and processes more slowly on the hair.

Application of relaxer only to new growth near the scalp, avoiding overlap onto previously relaxed hair in order to prevent breakage and overprocessing.

A hydrogen peroxide solution that, mixed with hair color, supplies the oxygen needed to develop color and lift natural pigment. Its volume strength determines how much lightening occurs.

A number from 1 to 10 describing how light or dark a hair color appears, with 1 being black and 10 the lightest blond. Level is judged separately from tone.

A small patch of color or lightener applied to skin, usually behind the ear or in the elbow crease, 24 to 48 hours before a color service to check for an allergic reaction.

A test on a small cutting of the client's hair, done before or during a color or lightener service, to judge timing, resulting shade, and how the hair responds.

Removing natural or artificial pigment from hair with lighteners so it passes through warm stages, from red to orange to yellow, before the target level is reached.

A coloring method in which thin slices of hair are separated with a tail comb and color is applied to the strands, often on foil, keeping the color isolated from the rest of the hair.

A scale from 0 to 14 measuring how acidic or alkaline a substance is, with 7 being neutral. Hair and skin prefer mildly acidic products, while strong alkalines swell the cuticle.

The cleansing ingredient in shampoo, having both water-loving and oil-loving ends, which lifts oils and debris from hair and scalp so they can be rinsed away.

An oily substance produced by the sebaceous glands of the scalp and skin. It coats and protects hair, but too much leaves it greasy and too little makes it dry.

Controlled movements such as effleurage, petrissage, and tapotement used during shampooing to relax the client and stimulate circulation, performed with the fingertips using even pressure.

An ingredient that smooths the cuticle, adds moisture or protein, and reduces friction, leaving hair softer and easier to comb after shampooing.

The visible hardened portion of keratin that covers the nail bed and protects the fingertip. Its surface, free edge, and sidewalls are assessed and shaped during a manicure.

The thin band of dead skin at the base of the nail plate that seals the nail against infection. In a manicure it is softened and gently pushed back rather than cut away.

A service that cleans, shapes, and conditions the hands and nails, including filing, cuticle care, massage, and application of polish or a clear protective coating.

Removing dead cells from the skin's surface with a scrub, enzyme, or acid product. In a facial it smooths texture and prepares skin for massage and masks; it is avoided on broken or irritated skin.

A light gliding massage stroke performed with the palms and fingers, used to begin and end a facial massage and to spread product evenly over the skin.

The lowest level of infection control: physically removing dirt, oil, and debris from surfaces and tools with soap and water or detergent, reducing but not eliminating microorganisms.

Using an EPA-registered hospital-grade product on tools and surfaces to destroy most harmful microorganisms, including many bacteria and viruses, but not bacterial spores.

The highest level of infection control, destroying all microorganisms including bacterial spores, usually with an autoclave. It is required for items that contact broken skin or blood.

A standardized document from a product manufacturer listing a chemical's hazards, safe handling, first-aid measures, and storage requirements. It must be kept available in the salon.

Infection-control practices that treat all blood and body fluids as potentially infectious. They include handwashing, gloves, and safe spill cleanup, regardless of what is known about the client.

The state board within the Division of Consumer Affairs that licenses cosmetologists, hairstylists, manicurists, and skin care specialists, sets practice standards, and handles complaints and discipline.

The periodic process by which a licensee submits required information and pays a fee to keep a New Jersey cosmetology or hairstyling license active. Working on an expired license violates the rules.

The legally defined services a licensee is trained and permitted to perform under a particular license type. Performing services outside that scope can result in board discipline.

A state credential authorizing a business location to offer cosmetology and hairstyling services to the public, subject to board facility and sanitation rules and to inspection.

The conversation before a service in which the practitioner assesses the client's hair, skin, or nails, discusses goals and history, and agrees on a plan, price, and expected result.

A client's agreement to a service after being told what it involves, the likely results, the risks, and any alternatives, given freely by someone able to decide.

A confidential record of each client's services, products used, formulas, timing, and any reactions, kept to ensure consistency, support safe future services, and document what happened.