Nail Care and Manicuring
Nail anatomy
The matrix produces the nail plate; damage there shows up as a permanent groove or distortion. The nail bed lies under the plate, the lunula is the visible portion of the matrix, the eponychium (cuticle) seals the base, the hyponychium sits under the free edge, and the sidewalls and nail folds frame the nail. Fingernails grow roughly 1/8 inch per month; toenails grow more slowly, one reason pedicures are spaced further apart.
Filing and shaping
File natural nails in one direction with a fine-grit file (about 180-240 grit); sawing back and forth splits the layers. Coarse files belong to enhancement work. Shapes include square, squoval, oval, round, almond, and pointed - square is the strongest and pointed the weakest.
Service sequence
Sanitize your hands and the client's, inspect for disorders, shape, soak, gently push back the cuticle, apply cuticle cream, massage, then polish: base coat, two thin color coats, top coat, and seal the free edge. Nippers are for a hangnail or a non-living tag, never for living tissue.
Disorders to recognize and refer
Onychomycosis (fungal), paronychia (bacterial redness and swelling), onychocryptosis (ingrown nail), and onycholysis (separation) are conditions, not cosmetic problems, and a cosmetologist may not treat them. Leukonychia (white spots) and Beau's lines (horizontal grooves) usually reflect past trauma or illness.
Traps
The most common error is treating the lunula as the growth source and the matrix as decorative. Another is assuming a discolored or painful nail is safe to work on. Implements must be cleaned and then disinfected between clients; porous items are single-use.
Rule of thumb
If tissue is red, swollen, painful, or discharging, stop the service and refer.