NJ Esthetician cheat sheet

Infection requires a pathogen, a reservoir, a portal of exit, a mode of transmission, a portal of entry, and a susceptible host; breaking any link prevents transmission.

Sanitation removes visible debris and reduces microbes on surfaces; disinfection destroys most pathogenic organisms on nonporous implements; sterilization destroys all microbial life including spores.

In New Jersey shops, implements that contact blood or body fluids or that are nonporous and reusable must be cleaned then disinfected with an EPA-registered hospital-grade disinfectant used per label contact time.

Porous items that cannot be disinfected (cotton, wooden sticks, buffing blocks, wax strips) are single-use and must be discarded after one client.

Bloodborne pathogens of concern include HBV, HCV, and HIV; HBV can remain infectious on dried blood for at least 7 days, so any blood contact requires glove use and immediate disinfection.

Standard precautions treat all blood and certain body fluids as infectious regardless of a client's appearance or stated history; gloves are required whenever blood, lesions, or broken skin may be contacted.

An EPA-registered disinfectant label states the dilution, contact time (often 10 minutes for quats), and whether it is a hospital-grade tuberculocidal product; mixing products or adding water beyond the label voids efficacy.

Hand washing with soap and warm running water for at least 20 seconds is required before and after each client; alcohol-based sanitizer is a supplement, not a substitute, when hands are visibly soiled.

Material Safety Data Sheets (now Safety Data Sheets under OSHA HazCom 2012) must be kept on site for every chemical product used and be accessible to workers.

Epidermis layers from deepest to surface: stratum germinativum (basale), stratum spinosum, stratum granulosum, stratum lucidum (palms and soles only), stratum corneum.

Keratinocytes are produced in the stratum germinativum and migrate upward; the full epidermal turnover takes about 28 days in young adults and lengthens with age.

The dermis contains collagen for strength, elastin for elasticity, and glycosaminoglycans such as hyaluronic acid for hydration; it houses nerves, glands, and hair follicles.

Sebaceous glands secrete sebum, are attached to hair follicles, and are most concentrated on the face, scalp, and upper back; eccrine sweat glands are distributed over nearly the whole body.

Melanocytes in the basal layer produce melanin packaged in melanosomes; melanin absorbs UV radiation and determines skin, hair, and eye color.

Skin functions include protection, sensation, thermoregulation, excretion, secretion, and vitamin D synthesis; the acid mantle (pH about 4.5-5.5) supports barrier function.

Skin is thinnest on the eyelids (about 0.5 mm) and thickest on the palms and soles; this governs pressure, product strength, and wax temperature choices.

Fitzpatrick phototypes I-VI classify sun response; types I-II burn easily and are at higher risk for UV damage, so sun protection counseling is prioritized.

Skin types: normal, dry (alipidic), oily, combination, and sensitive; skin conditions (dehydration, acne, pigmentation, aging) are diagnosed separately from type.

T-zone oiliness with normal-to-dry cheeks indicates combination skin; treat zones with different products rather than labeling the whole face oily.

Contraindications to facial treatment include open or weeping lesions, contagious skin disorders, recent chemical peel or laser resurfacing, sunburn, and active herpes simplex outbreak.

A furuncle, carbuncle, or boil is a contagious staphylococcal infection and is a strict contraindication; refer the client to a physician and do not extract.

Acne grades: grade I comedones, grade II papules and pustules, grade III additional inflammation with some scarring, grade IV cystic with significant scarring; grades III-IV are referred out.

Melasma and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation are pigment disorders aggravated by UV and heat; avoid heat-based treatments and aggressive exfoliation on these clients.

Seborrheic dermatitis (flaking, redness in oily areas) and rosacea (flushing, telangiectasia, papules) are chronic conditions requiring medical management; esthetic services are limited to gentle, non-heating care.

Skin cancer warning signs follow the ABCDE rule: Asymmetry, Border irregularity, Color variation, Diameter over 6 mm, Evolving change; any suspect lesion is referred, never treated.

Patch test 24-48 hours before first use of tint, lash adhesive, or wax on clients with known sensitivity; document the result in the client record.

Cleansers: surfactants lift oil and debris; syndets (synthetic detergents) have a lower, skin-friendly pH than true soaps, which are alkaline (pH 9-10) and can disrupt the acid mantle.

Exfoliation: mechanical (scrubs, brushes) removes cells by friction; chemical (AHA, BHA, enzymes) loosens desmosomes; AHAs are water-soluble, BHA (salicylic acid) is lipid-soluble and better for oily, comedonal skin.

Common AHA concentrations in salon peels range about 10-30% at pH 3-4; higher strength or lower pH increases risk and requires medical supervision in many settings.

Masks: clay and mud absorb oil (oily skin), gel and hydrating masks add water, cream masks nourish dry skin, and setting masks tighten; choose by skin type and condition, not by preference alone.

Massage movements include effleurage (gliding), petrissage (kneading), tapotement (percussion), and friction; all are directed toward lymph nodes with light pressure and are contraindicated over inflammation.

Emulsions combine water and oil with an emulsifier; oil-in-water (O/W) products feel lighter and suit oily skin, while water-in-oil (W/O) products are richer for dry skin.

Humectants (glycerin, hyaluronic acid) attract water; emollients (oils, esters) soften and smooth; occlusives (petrolatum, dimethicone) reduce water loss by forming a barrier.

Antioxidants such as vitamins C and E neutralize free radicals; vitamin C is unstable in light and air, so opaque, air-restricted packaging protects potency.

Sun protection: broad-spectrum SPF 30 or higher is recommended daily; reapply every two hours of exposure, and note that SPF measures UVB protection while the PA or broad-spectrum rating addresses UVA.

Waxing removes hair at the bulb by pulling the hair shaft from the follicle; hair must be at least 1/4 inch (about 6 mm) long for wax to grip.

Anagen (growth) phase hair yields the best waxing results; because follicles cycle independently, repeat waxing every 3-6 weeks gradually reduces density.

Contraindications to waxing include isotretinoin use within the past 6-12 months, recent chemical peel or dermabrasion, sunburn, active infection, open lesions, and use of blood thinners or retinoids on the area.

Hard wax is applied thick, sets without strips, and is suited to sensitive areas such as the upper lip and bikini; soft wax requires fabric strips and is used on larger areas.

Wax temperature is typically 125-135°F (about 52-57°C) for soft wax; test on the inner wrist or a small area first, and never re-dip a used applicator into the pot.

Waxing direction: apply in the direction of hair growth, press the strip, then remove against the growth direction while holding the skin taut to reduce trauma.

Post-wax care: apply a soothing, non-comedogenic product, advise avoiding heat, sun, and friction for 24 hours, and instruct the client to avoid tight clothing on waxed areas.

Threading uses twisted cotton thread to trap and lift hair at the surface; it is appropriate for clients using retinoids or with sensitive skin who cannot tolerate wax.

Dispose of wax, strips, and applicators after each client; double-dipping is prohibited because it contaminates the pot with skin cells and microbes.

Foundation shade matching is done along the jawline in natural light; the correct shade disappears into the skin without a visible line at the neck.

Undertones are cool (pink, blue, red), warm (yellow, peach, gold), and neutral; foundation, concealer, and powder should match the undertone, not just the depth.

Color theory: complementary colors neutralize; green cancels redness, peach or orange cancels blue or purple (dark circles), and yellow cancels purple bruising.

Face shapes (oval, round, square, heart, diamond, oblong) are balanced with contour, highlight, and blush placement; contour recedes an area, highlight brings it forward.

Eyeshadow application: light shades highlight, medium shades define the crease, dark shades create depth at the lash line; blending prevents harsh lines.

Lash line and brow grooming: brows are filled with short strokes following natural hair growth; the brow's three points are the inner corner, arch, and tail, aligned to the nose and eye.

Lip products: lip liner defines and prevents feathering; matte finishes are longer-wearing but drying, while gloss adds shine and reflects light to make lips appear fuller.

Sanitation in makeup: lip and eye products are applied with disposable applicators or spatulas; mascara and liquid liner wands are never shared, and pencils are sharpened and wiped between clients.

Special-occasion and corrective makeup: photography and stage lighting wash out features, so contour and color are applied more intensely than for daylight.

Eyelash growth cycle: anagen (active growth, about 30-45 days), catagen (transition, 2-3 weeks), and telogen (rest, about 100 days); natural lash loss of 1-5 lashes per day is normal.

Classic lash extensions apply one synthetic lash to one natural lash; volume sets apply 2-6 lighter lashes per natural lash, called a fan.

Lash adhesive is a cyanoacrylate that cures with moisture; humidity of about 40-60% and temperature around 68-72°F optimize cure speed; too dry and cure slows, too humid and it cures brittle.

Patch test the adhesive 24-48 hours before the first application; contraindications include active eye infection, recent eye surgery, and known cyanoacrylate allergy.

Lash extension aftercare: keep lashes dry for 24-48 hours, avoid oil-based products near the eyes, and cleanse with a lash-safe foam; do not use mascara on extensions.

Lash lift and tint: a lift uses a silicone shield and reducing solution to break and reform disulfide bonds; a patch test is required for tint, and the service is avoided on clients with recent chemical peels or eye infections.

Brow services include shaping (tweezing, waxing, threading), tinting, and lamination; lamination uses a similar disulfide-breaking chemistry and requires a patch test.

Consultation for lash and brow services covers allergies, contact lens use, medications (especially blood thinners and retinoids), and prior reactions to adhesives or tints.

Record-keeping: document the adhesive brand, lot number, and patch-test result for each client; this is essential if a reaction occurs.

The consultation establishes the client's goals, skin history, allergies, medications, and prior treatments; the intake form is signed and dated before service.

Informed consent means explaining the service, its risks, alternatives, and aftercare, and confirming the client's agreement in writing when the service carries risk.

Scope of practice: an esthetician does not diagnose or treat disease; suspicious lesions, rashes, or infections are referred to a physician.

Confidentiality: client records, health information, and photographs are protected and are not shared without written permission.

Professional ethics include honesty about results, avoiding guarantees of cure, disclosing product costs, and refusing services that are contraindicated even when the client requests them.

Communication: use open-ended questions, reflect back what the client says, and explain each step before performing it to reduce anxiety and build trust.

Client records must be retained and kept current; note products used, observations, and any adverse reactions, and update the record at each visit.

Boundaries and professionalism: maintain a clean, private service area, avoid personal or romantic relationships with clients, and address complaints calmly with documentation.

Advertising and social media: before-and-after images require written client release; claims must be truthful and must not imply medical treatment.

The New Jersey State Board of Cosmetology and Hairstyling regulates cosmetologists, hairstylists, barbers, manicurists, skin care specialists, and electrologists under the Cosmetology and Hairstyling Act (N.J.S.A. 45:5B).

Licensure requires completing an approved course of study, passing the Board-approved examination, and submitting an application with the required fee; licenses must be renewed on the Board's cycle.

The Board sets minimum curriculum hours for each license category; skin care specialist training includes skin care, makeup, hair removal, and related sciences.

Unlicensed practice is prohibited; only a licensed individual may perform services for compensation, and licensees must display their license as required by the Board.

Shop and salon licensure: the establishment must hold a valid shop license, be inspected, and meet sanitation standards for equipment, towels, and waste disposal.

Sanitation rules require that reusable implements be cleaned and disinfected between clients, that single-use items be discarded, and that a disinfectant approved by the Board be available.

Continuing education and renewal: the Board requires compliance with renewal requirements, and lapsed licenses may be restored only through the Board's reinstatement process and fees.

The Board may discipline licensees for violations including unsanitary practice, fraud, practicing beyond scope, and impairment; penalties include fines, suspension, or revocation.

Advertising and records: licensees must keep records required by the Board, and advertising must not be false or misleading; the Board's rules govern the content and retention of those records.