Facial Treatments and Product Chemistry
Domain 4 - Facial Treatments and Product Chemistry
Expect questions on treatment order, massage manipulations, ingredient function, pH, and how to handle a reaction mid-service.
Sequence
Consult and analyze, cleanse, exfoliate if indicated, steam and extract, massage, mask, serum and moisturizer, SPF, then home care. Cleanse before exfoliating, extract after softening the corneum, and never massage over active acne or over a mask.
Massage manipulations
Effleurage (gliding; opens and closes the routine), petrissage (kneading), tapotement (percussion), friction and vibration. Direction follows muscle and lymph flow toward the nodes, not the direction of the skin's surface.
Chemistry essentials
- Surfactants lift oil and dirt; harsh ones raise skin pH.
- AHAs (glycolic, lactic) exfoliate the corneum and increase photosensitivity; BHAs (salicylic) are oil-soluble and suit oily, comedone-prone skin.
- Humectants draw water in, emollients soften and smooth, occlusives seal water in.
- Preservatives keep water-based products safe; an unpreserved cream is a growth medium.
Worked example
A client on prescription tretinoin books a glycolic facial. Tretinoin thins the corneum, so acid plus exfoliation risks burns and barrier damage. Defer the acid, offer a hydrating non-exfoliating treatment, and ask her to clear a peel with her prescriber.
Traps
More product is not better; over-exfoliation causes inflammation and post-inflammatory pigmentation. Never blend a client's own products into a professional treatment without checking every ingredient. An AHA peel does not sterilize skin.