NM Barber cheat sheet

Barbering scope typically covers cutting, styling, shaving, beard trimming, and chemical services on hair and facial hair, with skin care limited to the scalp and face as defined by state rule.

Straight-razor shaving requires a taut skin surface: the free hand stretches skin ahead of the blade at roughly 30 degrees or less; a second pass against the grain is optional and depends on client tolerance.

Disinfection vs. sterilization: implements contacting blood or broken skin must be cleaned then sterilized with an EPA-registered hospital-grade tuberculocidal disinfectant or an approved physical method per state rule.

A neck strip or clean towel must separate the cape from the client's skin; capes are not to touch skin directly, and linens are single-use or laundered between clients.

Haircutting elevations: 0 degrees = blunt/one-length, 45 degrees = graduated, 90 degrees = uniform layers, 180 degrees = long layers; these control weight distribution.

Beard and mustache hair grows in patterns; the neckline is shaped along the jaw or natural growth line, never into the beard body, to avoid a shaved-out look.

Blood exposure: stop service, glove, apply pressure, clean the wound, then disinfect all contaminated tools and surfaces; contaminated waste is disposed of per bloodborne-pathogen rule.

Permanent wave processing time depends on hair porosity, diameter, and elasticity, not solely on the manufacturer's clock; test curl determines when to rinse.

Hair structure: cuticle (protective outer layer), cortex (bulk, melanin, disulfide bonds), medulla (central core, may be absent in fine hair); chemical change occurs in the cortex.

pH scale: hair and skin ~4.5-5.5; shampoos ~4.5-7; permanent waves ~8.5-9.5; relaxers ~11-13; color depositing products vary; high pH raises the cuticle and swells the hair.

Permanent wave chemistry: reducing agent (ammonium thioglycolate or glyceryl monothioglycolate) breaks disulfide bonds; neutralizer (hydrogen peroxide or sodium bromate) rebuilds them in the new shape.

Hydroxide relaxers (sodium, potassium, lithium, guanidine) are lye-based and cause lanthionization; no-lye relaxers use calcium hydroxide plus guanidine and are not gentler on the hair.

Color wheel: primary yellow, red, blue; secondary orange, green, violet; complementary pairs neutralize (violet cancels yellow, blue cancels orange, green cancels red).

Developer volumes: 10 vol = 3% (deposit only), 20 vol = 6% (1-2 levels lift), 30 vol = 9% (2-3 levels), 40 vol = 12% (3-4 levels); lift depends on natural level, texture, and developer.

Patch test and strand test are required before aniline-derivative (oxidative) color on a new client per manufacturer directions and state rule.

Sanitation tiers: cleaning removes visible debris; disinfection kills most microorganisms on nonporous implements; sterilization kills all microbial life including spores and is required for items that pierce skin.

Skin analysis order: cleanse, observe under magnification and light, assess oiliness, pore size, texture, elasticity, and sensitivity before selecting products.

Fitzpatrick types I-VI predict UV response; type I always burns and never tans, type VI rarely burns; this guides exfoliation depth and treatment intensity.

Skin layers: epidermis (stratum corneum, granulosum, spinosum, basale), dermis (collagen, elastin, nerves, glands), hypodermis (fat); most facial treatments act on the epidermis.

Extraction is performed only on comedones with visible openings after softening; inflamed papules, pustules, and cysts are not extracted.

Chemical exfoliant pH matters: AHAs (glycolic, lactic) act at low pH and are water-soluble; BHAs (salicylic) are oil-soluble and suited to oily, comedonal skin; neutralization stops acid action.

Contraindications for heat, exfoliation, and massage include active infection, open lesions, recent chemical peel or waxing, isotretinoin use, and uncontrolled skin disease; refer to a physician.

Waxing temperature is tested on the inner wrist; wax should never exceed manufacturer's temperature, and hair must be at least 1/4 inch for effective removal.

Massage movements: effleurage (gliding), petrissage (kneading), tapotement (percussion), friction (circular pressure), vibration; direction generally follows lymph drainage toward nodes.

Electrolysis modalities: galvanic (direct current, chemical destruction via lye), thermolysis (high-frequency alternating current, heat), and blend (both currents simultaneously).

Hair growth cycles: anagen (active growth, germinative bulb present, best target), catagen (transition), telogen (resting, club hair, sheds); only anagen follicles respond predictably.

Insertion angle must follow the follicle's natural angle; shallow insertion risks missing the bulb, deep insertion risks pitting and scarring.

Galvanic lye production: 1 unit of lye per unit of current per unit of time; multiple needles share current, so each needle receives less than the total.

Thermolysis uses high frequency at short duration; overtreatment causes blanching, crusting, and possible pinpoint scarring; epilation should release the hair without resistance.

Blend technique combines galvanic lye with thermolysis heat; the heat accelerates lye action, allowing lower current and shorter treatment than galvanic alone.

Pre- and post-treatment: no sun, waxing, or depilatories on the area; avoid makeup and heat for 24 hours; treat per state rule on physician supervision and scope.

Infection control: probe is single-use sterile; forceps and surfaces disinfected between clients; electrologist must follow bloodborne-pathogen standards for any procedure that may cause bleeding.

Haircutting sections and partings: horizontal, vertical, diagonal, and radial; radial partings originate at a center point and distribute hair evenly for uniform perimeter lines.

Blow-dry styling: tension plus heat plus cooling sets the shape; cool air closes the cuticle and sets the style, while over-direction builds volume.

Thermal tools: flat iron temperature should match hair texture (fine 250-300 F, medium 300-350 F, coarse 350-400 F); always use a heat protectant.

Color formulation: level system 1 (black) to 10 (lightest blonde); underlying pigment must be considered when lifting or depositing, and filler prevents muddy results on porous hair.

Foiling techniques: full head, partial, babylights, balayage; slice vs. weave controls coverage; saturation and processing time determine lift and tone.

Updo and braid structure: anchor with a base (ponytail, part), balance weight at the nape or crown, and secure ends before pinning; tension must be even to prevent pulling.

Hair extensions and wigs require scalp health assessment; adhesive and braid tension can cause traction alopecia, so sectioning and weight distribution matter.

Sanitation for hairdressers: combs and brushes cleaned of hair and disinfected after each client; shears and clippers disinfected and oiled; neck strips used with every cape.

Nail anatomy: nail plate, nail bed, matrix (growth area), cuticle, eponychium, hyponychium, lunula, free edge; matrix damage causes permanent nail deformity.

Nail growth: fingernails roughly 3 mm per month (full replacement 4-6 months); toenails roughly 1 mm per month (full replacement 9-12 months).

Nail shapes: square, squoval, round, oval, almond, stiletto, coffin; shape choice follows sidewall strength and client lifestyle.

Pedicure water: single-use liners or disinfected basin; water temperature moderate; jets must be cleaned and disinfected per manufacturer and state rule between clients.

Ingrown toenail and fungal infection are contraindications for aggressive pedicure services; refer to a physician and do not cut living tissue.

Methacrylate (MMA) is prohibited in many states; ethyl methacrylate (EMA) is the accepted monomer for acrylic nails.

Disinfection: implements contacting skin and nails are cleaned then immersed in EPA-registered hospital-grade disinfectant for the label contact time; porous items (emery boards, orange sticks) are single-use.

Electric file safety: lower RPM for natural nails, higher for enhancements; keep the bit moving, avoid the eponychium and sidewalls, and use light pressure to prevent heat damage.

Licensure: the establishment license is separate from individual practitioner licenses; a licensed practitioner must be on duty whenever services are performed.

Sanitation standards: all implements cleaned and disinfected between clients; single-use items discarded; linens laundered; surfaces disinfected; disinfectant must be EPA-registered and used at label dilution and contact time.

Bloodborne pathogen exposure control plan, gloves, sharps container, and Hepatitis B vaccination offer are required where employees may contact blood.

Chemical safety: Material Safety Data Sheets (SDS) must be accessible for all chemicals; containers labeled; ventilation adequate for vapors from acrylics, relaxers, and disinfectants.

Physical facility: hand-washing sink with hot and cold running water must be available; restrooms, ventilation, lighting, and waste disposal per state rule.

Recordkeeping: client records, service logs, and disinfection logs retained for the period required by state rule; licenses posted conspicuously.

Inspection readiness: posted licenses, current SDS sheets, labeled containers, and disinfection logs are the most commonly cited items in inspections.

Closure and transfer: change of ownership, relocation, or closure requires notice to the board within the time frame set by state rule; licenses are not transferable between owners or locations.

Clock-hour vs. credit-hour programs: most states require a set number of clock hours (commonly 1,000-1,500 for cosmetology, 1,000-1,500 for barbering, 600 for esthetics, 300-600 for nail technology) before licensure exam eligibility.

Curriculum split: theory hours plus practical/clinical hours; state rule sets minimum practical operations (e.g., haircuts, facials, manicures) that must be documented.

Student practice requires supervision by a licensed instructor; services on the public are performed under the school's license and supervision, not the student's.

Graduation documentation: official transcript with hours and completion date is required for the licensing exam application; falsifying hours is grounds for denial or revocation.

Instructor licensure typically requires a set number of years of practitioner experience plus an instructor examination or course; requirements vary by state.

School sanitation rules mirror establishment rules: disinfection logs, single-use items, labeled chemicals, and bloodborne-pathogen training for students.

Financial and consumer rules: enrollment agreements, refund policies, and disclosure of completion and placement rates are regulated; keep copies of all signed documents.

Exam eligibility: pass a written/theory exam and a practical exam; some states accept national exams, others use state-specific tests; check the state board's current candidate handbook.