NM Barber flashcards
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32 cards. Read the term and the definition here. The deck at the top of this page is optional.
- Cuticle layer
- The outermost protective layer of the hair shaft made of overlapping scale-like cells. Chemical services must raise it to allow penetration into the cortex.
- Cortex function
- The middle layer of the hair containing melanin and disulfide bonds. It gives hair strength, elasticity, and color, and is where permanent waves and color act.
- Disulfide bond
- A strong chemical bond between cysteine amino acids in the cortex. Permanent waves break these bonds with a reducing agent and rebuild them with a neutralizer.
- Complementary color rule
- Colors opposite each other on the color wheel neutralize one another: violet cancels yellow, blue cancels orange, and green cancels red. Used to correct unwanted tones.
- Developer volume
- The concentration of hydrogen peroxide in a color developer. Ten volume is 3 percent, twenty is 6 percent, thirty is 9 percent, and forty is 12 percent.
- Anagen phase
- The active growth phase of the hair cycle, when the bulb is fully formed and melanin is produced. Electrolysis targets anagen follicles for best results.
- Telogen phase
- The resting phase of the hair cycle when the club hair is fully formed and eventually sheds. Treating telogen hairs during electrolysis is less effective.
- Galvanic electrolysis
- A modality using direct current to create lye at the follicle bulb, destroying the germinative cells chemically. It is slower but effective for curved follicles.
- Thermolysis modality
- A modality using high-frequency alternating current to generate heat at the follicle bulb. It is fast but requires precise insertion to avoid overtreatment and scarring.
- Blend electrolysis
- A modality combining galvanic and thermolysis currents simultaneously. Heat accelerates lye formation, allowing lower current and shorter treatment times.
- Fitzpatrick scale
- A six-point classification of skin response to ultraviolet light. Type I always burns and never tans; type VI rarely burns and tans deeply.
- Comedone extraction
- Manual removal of a blackhead or whitehead with visible opening after skin softening. Inflamed papules, pustules, and cysts are never extracted.
- AHA versus BHA
- Alpha hydroxy acids are water-soluble and act at low pH on the skin surface. Beta hydroxy acid (salicylic) is oil-soluble and penetrates pores, suiting oily skin.
- Effleurage movement
- A gliding massage stroke applied with light to medium pressure, generally directed toward lymph nodes. It begins and ends most facial massage routines.
- Waxing temperature test
- Wax is tested on the inner wrist before application. It should feel warm, not hot, and hair must be about one quarter inch long for effective removal.
- Nail matrix
- The growth area at the base of the nail beneath the eponychium. Damage to the matrix can cause permanent nail deformity or loss of the nail plate.
- Fingernail growth rate
- Fingernails grow about 3 millimeters per month, replacing fully in four to six months. Toenails grow about 1 millimeter per month, taking nine to twelve months.
- EMA monomer
- Ethyl methacrylate, the accepted liquid monomer for acrylic nail enhancements. Methyl methacrylate (MMA) is prohibited in many states because of safety concerns.
- Porous implement rule
- Items such as emery boards, orange sticks, and cotton cannot be reliably disinfected. They are single-use and discarded after each client.
- Cohort of haircut elevations
- Elevation controls weight: zero degrees is blunt, 45 degrees is graduated, 90 degrees is uniform layers, and 180 degrees produces long layers.
- Radial parting
- A sectioning pattern with partings radiating from a central point. It distributes hair evenly and is used for uniform perimeter lines in haircutting.
- Thermal tool temperature
- Flat iron heat matched to texture: about 250 to 300 F for fine hair, 300 to 350 F for medium, and 350 to 400 F for coarse, always with heat protectant.
- Balayage technique
- Freehand painting of lightener onto the hair surface to create a soft, graduated grow-out. Unlike foiling, it does not saturate from root to end.
- Traction alopecia
- Hair loss caused by sustained tension from tight braids, extensions, or updos. Even weight distribution and tension control prevent it.
- Straight razor angle
- The blade is held at roughly 30 degrees or less to taut skin. The free hand stretches skin ahead of the blade to prevent nicks and cuts.
- Neck strip requirement
- A clean neck strip or towel separates the cape from the client's skin. Capes never touch skin directly, and linens are changed between clients.
- Test curl purpose
- A test curl during a permanent wave shows how the hair is processing. It determines when to rinse, based on porosity and elasticity rather than only the clock.
- Establishment license
- A license issued to a salon or shop separate from practitioner licenses. A licensed practitioner must be on duty whenever services are performed.
- SDS accessibility
- Safety Data Sheets for every chemical product must be kept on site and accessible to workers. They describe hazards, handling, and first aid measures.
- Disinfectant contact time
- The wet contact period stated on the EPA-registered product label during which implements must stay immersed. Shortening it invalidates disinfection.
- Clock-hour requirement
- The number of training hours a state requires before exam eligibility. Cosmetology and barbering commonly require 1,000 to 1,500 hours; esthetics and nails require fewer.
- Student practice supervision
- Services performed by students on the public require a licensed instructor on the premises. The school's license covers the service, not the student's.