Cosmetologist
The Cosmetologist domain covers the broadest scope in the New Mexico licensing system: hair, skin, and nails, plus the chemistry and sanitation that tie them together. The Board expects a cosmetologist to recognize when a service is within scope, when a patch test or strand test is required, and when to stop and refer.
Chemistry and color
- Hydrogen peroxide developer lifts the cuticle and oxidizes dye; 10 volume deposits, 20 volume lifts about one level, 30 volume lifts two to three, and 40 volume lifts three to four.
- Apply an aniline dye patch test 24 to 48 hours before a first-time color service.
- Relaxers are strongly alkaline; protect the scalp, do not overlap relaxed hair, and neutralize completely.
- Mix developer and color only in the manufacturer's ratio; never add extra developer to stretch product.
Worked example
A client with relaxed hair requests permanent color. Reasoning: relaxed hair is already chemically processed and more porous. Overlapping a relaxer and oxidative color can cause breakage. Wait at least two weeks after the relaxer, strand test, choose a lower-volume developer, and avoid pulling color through previously relaxed ends. If the scalp has abrasions, reschedule.
Traps
- Skipping the patch test because the client has had color before.
- Overlapping relaxer on previously relaxed hair.
- Using 40 volume on fine or damaged hair.
- Diagnosing a scalp disease instead of referring.