NM Esthetician cheat sheet
NM Esthetician · Keep the key ideas within reach.
Infection Control, Sanitation, and Safety
Disinfection destroys most pathogenic microorganisms on nonporous surfaces and implements but does not reliably destroy bacterial spores.
Sterilization destroys all microbial life, including spores, and is required for items that penetrate skin or contact sterile body areas.
Sanitizing reduces microorganisms to a level considered safe by public health standards; it is not equivalent to disinfection.
Standard precautions treat all blood, body fluids, nonintact skin, and mucous membranes as potentially infectious.
Handwashing includes wetting hands, applying soap, lathering at least 20 seconds, scrubbing all surfaces and under nails, rinsing, and drying with a disposable towel.
An EPA-registered hospital disinfectant labeled tuberculocidal is used for blood or body-fluid spills and contaminated implements, following the label contact time.
Porous items that contact blood or body fluids and cannot be disinfected, such as nail files and buffing blocks, are single-use and discarded.
Sharps are placed directly into puncture-resistant, leakproof, labeled containers; recapping by hand is prohibited.
Cleaning with soap and water precedes disinfection because organic debris reduces disinfectant efficacy.
Skin Sciences and Skin Analysis
Epidermal layers from deepest to surface are stratum basale, spinosum, granulosum, lucidum on palms and soles, and corneum.
The stratum basale contains mitotic keratinocytes that renew the epidermis and melanocytes that produce melanin for transfer to keratinocytes.
The dermis has papillary and reticular layers and contains collagen, elastin, glycosaminoglycans, fibroblasts, vessels, nerves, glands, and follicles.
Sebaceous glands secrete sebum, are influenced by androgens, and are most abundant on the face, scalp, chest, and upper back.
Eccrine sweat glands support thermoregulation; apocrine glands in axillae and groin become active at puberty and respond to emotional and endocrine stimuli.
The Fitzpatrick scale I through VI estimates UV burning and tanning response and guides photoprotection and energy-device settings.
Skin type categories include normal, dry, oily, combination, and sensitive; assessment uses visual inspection, palpation, and client history.
Transepidermal water loss rises when barrier lipids are depleted, producing tightness, flaking, erythema, or sensitivity.
The skin surface pH is approximately 4.5 to 5.5, forming an acidic mantle that supports barrier function and microbial balance.
Client Consultation and Treatment Planning
Consultation sequence includes greeting, health intake, skin analysis, goal discussion, recommendation, consent, and documentation.
Contraindications include active infection, open lesions, severe sunburn, recent surgery, and medical conditions outside esthetic scope.
A patch test is performed 24 to 48 hours before a first exposure or when allergy history suggests risk.
Medical history review includes medications, pregnancy, allergies, seizures, diabetes, autoimmune disease, and photosensitivity.
Informed consent documents risks, benefits, alternatives, aftercare, likely outcomes, and client questions before service.
SOAP notes record Subjective, Objective, Assessment, and Plan data, including products, strengths, timing, response, and home care.
Fitzpatrick type and sensitivity influence peel selection, wax temperature, and device settings within manufacturer and training limits.
Estheticians do not diagnose skin disease or prescribe medication; suspicious lesions are referred to a physician.
Treatment plans include frequency, home care, expected downtime, contraindications, and a reevaluation date.
Esthetic Treatments and Hair Removal
Cleansing removes makeup, oil, and debris before exfoliation, massage, or mask application.
Mechanical exfoliation removes corneocytes with scrubs or brushes; chemical exfoliation loosens desmosomes with acids and is avoided on compromised skin.
Alpha hydroxy acids such as glycolic and lactic acids are water-soluble; beta hydroxy acid salicylic acid is lipid-soluble and penetrates pores.
Chemical peel depth depends on agent, concentration, pH, application time, and skin preparation; some peels require neutralization.
Extraction is limited to visible comedones or pustules with gentle pressure; inflamed cysts and deep lesions are not extracted.
Waxing removes hair most effectively in anagen phase; wax temperature is tested before application, and strips are removed against hair growth.
Hard wax is used without muslin for sensitive areas and short hair; soft wax requires a strip and is avoided over varicose veins, moles, and irritated skin.
Post-wax care includes soothing, avoiding heat, sun, friction, and exfoliation for 24 to 48 hours, and recommending sunscreen.
Laser and light hair reduction target melanin and are avoided on tanned skin, recent sun exposure, and photosensitizing medications.
Makeup, Specialized Services, and Business Practices
Makeup sanitation includes never double-dipping mascara wands, using disposable applicators, sharpening pencils, sanitizing palettes, and discarding expired products.
Complementary color theory neutralizes tones: green cancels redness, peach or orange cancels blue-purple, and yellow cancels purple.
Foundation is matched to the jawline and neck in natural light, considering undertone and surface tone rather than testing on the hand.
Lash extensions require isolating one natural lash per extension and placing adhesive 1 to 2 mm from the eyelid without bridging lashes.
Brow mapping uses three points: start at the inner canthus, arch at the iris outer edge, and tail at the outer canthus.
Microdermabrasion uses mechanical exfoliation with vacuum and crystals or a diamond tip; it is avoided over active acne, rosacea, telangiectasia, and recently treated skin.
LED therapy uses nonthermal wavelengths; blue light targets acne-associated bacteria and red light supports anti-inflammatory healing, with eye protection required.
Service prices must cover time, product cost, overhead, and profit margin; retail pricing often uses keystone, or twice wholesale cost.
Written policies for cancellation, consent, records retention, and liability insurance protect the esthetic business and client.