NM Esthetician study materials
NM Esthetician study resources

NM Esthetician: Skin Sciences and Skin Analysis

NM Esthetician · Work through your exam, one topic at a time.

All guide sections

Skin Sciences and Skin Analysis

Structure and function

Build a mental map of the epidermis: stratum corneum (barrier), granulosum, spinosum, basale (where keratinocytes divide and melanocytes sit). Below it, the dermis holds collagen, elastin, sebaceous and sweat glands, hair follicles, and vessels; then subcutaneous fat. Know the barrier's chemistry: the acid mantle sits near pH 4.5–5.5, formed by sebum and sweat, and it controls water loss and bacterial growth. Skin functions to protect, sense, secrete, excrete, absorb, regulate temperature, and synthesize vitamin D.

Classification

Skin types - normal, dry, oily, combination, sensitive - are genetic and do not change. Skin conditions (dehydration, acne, pigmentation, aging, rosacea-like redness) vary with health, season, and habits. Fitzpatrick phototypes I–VI predict sun response and treatment risk. UVB causes burning; UVA drives aging and pigmentation.

Lesions

Learn primary versus secondary. Primary: macule, papule, pustule, vesicle, bulla (over 1 cm), wheal, nodule, cyst, tumor. Secondary: crust, scale, scar, excoriation, fissure, ulcer, atrophy. Estheticians describe and refer; they do not diagnose.

Analysis tools

Visual inspection, palpation, magnifying lamp, and Wood's lamp. Under Wood's lamp: blue-white = normal, orange/yellow = oily, violet/purple = dehydration, brown = pigmentation, coral-red = possible bacterial involvement, yellow-green fluorescence = fungal suspicion (refer).

Traps

Questions swap macule and papule, or vesicle and bulla. They also claim a topical product changes skin type. Suspicious, changing, or undiagnosed lesions are never treated.

Rule of thumb

Describe what you see, name the condition, then check it against your scope: if it is a lesion you cannot identify with confidence, treat around it and refer.