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32 cards. Read the term and the definition here. The deck at the top of this page is optional.

Cortex
The middle layer of the hair shaft, making up most of its mass. It contains melanin and keratin bundles that determine strength, elasticity, and curl pattern.
Cuticle
The outermost layer of overlapping scale-like cells that protects the hair shaft. Chemical services lift or damage it, and smoothing it reduces porosity and frizz.
Anagen phase
The active growth stage of the hair cycle, lasting roughly two to seven years on the scalp. Most scalp hairs are in this phase at any time.
Telogen phase
The resting stage of the hair cycle, lasting about three months, after which the hair sheds. About ten percent of scalp hairs are normally in telogen.
Acid mantle
The slightly acidic film on skin and hair, near pH 4.5 to 5.5. It protects the cuticle and discourages microbial growth; alkaline products disrupt it.
Thioglycolate
The reducing agent in most permanent waves, active around pH 9. It breaks disulfide bonds so hair can be reshaped around a rod.
Neutralizer
The product applied after a permanent wave that rebuilds disulfide bonds in the new shape. Hydrogen peroxide or sodium bromate are common active ingredients.
Disulfide bond
A strong chemical bond between cysteine units in keratin that gives hair its strength and shape. Waving breaks these bonds; neutralizing reforms them.
Lye relaxer
A strongly alkaline straightener using sodium hydroxide. It requires base and scalp protection and thorough neutralizing shampooing to stop the chemical action.
Guanidine hydroxide
A no-lye relaxer system formed by mixing calcium hydroxide with guanidine carbonate. It is less irritating to skin but can leave mineral buildup.
Developer volume
A measure of hydrogen peroxide strength: 10 volume is 3 percent, 20 is 6 percent, 30 is 9 percent, and 40 is 12 percent. Higher volume lifts more melanin.
Patch test
A small application of a chemical product to skin, usually 24 to 48 hours before service, to detect an allergic reaction before full exposure.
Strand test
A test on a small section of the client's hair before a chemical service to predict timing, lift, and possible damage. Results guide the formula and processing time.
Porosity
The hair's ability to absorb and retain moisture, linked to cuticle condition. Low porosity resists moisture; high porosity absorbs fast but loses it quickly.
Elasticity
The hair's ability to stretch and return to its original length. Low elasticity signals damage and warns against strong chemical processing.
Fitzpatrick scale
A six-type classification of skin based on response to sun exposure. Type one always burns and never tans; type six rarely burns and tans deeply.
Epidermis
The outer protective layer of skin, containing no blood vessels. It renews itself continuously and is the first barrier against chemicals and microbes.
Dermis
The middle skin layer containing blood vessels, nerves, glands, and collagen. It supports the epidermis and houses hair follicles and sweat glands.
Nail matrix
The living tissue at the base of the nail that produces the nail plate. Injury to the matrix can permanently alter nail shape or growth.
Eponychium
The living skin at the base of the nail plate, often called the cuticle area. It seals the nail against infection and should not be cut deeply.
Effleurage
A massage stroke using light, gliding pressure in the direction of blood flow. It begins and ends most massage services and promotes relaxation.
Petrissage
A kneading massage movement that lifts and compresses tissue. It targets deeper muscle layers and is used after warming the area with gliding strokes.
Tapotement
A brisk rhythmic tapping or percussion movement using the hands or fingertips. It stimulates circulation and is applied briefly, avoiding bony areas.
GFCI
A ground fault circuit interrupter that cuts power when current leaks to ground. It is required near water and protects against electric shock.
Standard precautions
The practice of treating all blood and body fluids as potentially infectious. It includes hand washing, gloves, and disinfecting contaminated tools after every client.
EPA-registered disinfectant
A product approved by the Environmental Protection Agency for killing pathogens on hard surfaces. Implements must be fully immersed for the label contact time.
Tinea capitis
A contagious fungal infection of the scalp causing scaling and hair loss. It requires medical referral, and contaminated porous items must be discarded.
Pediculosis
An infestation of head lice, which is contagious. Service must be refused and the client referred for treatment; tools require disinfection.
Alopecia areata
A noncontagious autoimmune condition causing smooth, patchy hair loss. It is not caused by poor hygiene and should be referred to a physician.
Traction alopecia
Hair loss caused by prolonged tension from tight braids, ponytails, or weaves. Early detection and looser styling can allow regrowth.
Telogen effluvium
Diffuse shedding that follows illness, stress, or hormonal change, pushing many hairs into the resting phase. It is usually temporary and resolves over months.
Keystone pricing
A retail pricing method that doubles the wholesale cost of a product. Some salons use a higher multiplier to cover overhead and profit.