OR Esthetician cheat sheet
OR Esthetician · Keep the key ideas within reach.
Oregon Laws, Rules, and Regulations
Oregon Board of Cosmetology licenses estheticians; a license must be posted at the work station and is renewed every two years.
Minimum training for esthetician licensure in Oregon is 600 hours in an approved program; high school diploma or equivalent required.
License renewal requires 10 hours of continuing education per two-year cycle, including at least 2 hours in infection control.
A salon or shop must hold a facility license; the owner is responsible for ensuring all staff hold current individual licenses.
Services may be performed only in a licensed facility; mobile or home services require a separate mobile facility license.
Client records must be retained for at least 3 years and include consent forms, treatment notes, and any adverse reactions.
Sanitation rules require disinfection of implements after each client; single-use items must be discarded and never reused.
Advertising must include the license number of the esthetician or facility; false or misleading claims are prohibited.
The Board may inspect without notice during business hours; refusal to allow inspection is grounds for discipline.
Infection Control, Sanitation, and Safety
Pathogen chain: infectious agent → reservoir → portal of exit → mode of transmission → portal of entry → susceptible host; break any link to prevent infection.
Disinfection kills most pathogenic organisms on nonporous surfaces; sterilization destroys all microbial life, including spores.
EPA-registered hospital-grade disinfectant must be used according to label contact time; implements must be fully immersed.
Single-use items (wax strips, lancets, cotton, wooden spatulas) are discarded after one client; reusable metal tools are cleaned then disinfected.
Hand washing with soap and water for at least 20 seconds is required before and after each client and after glove removal.
Gloves are required for waxing, extractions, and any procedure with potential contact with blood or body fluids.
Bloodborne pathogen exposure: wash the area, report to supervisor, and follow the facility's exposure control plan; HBV vaccination is recommended.
Universal precautions treat all blood and body fluids as infectious; PPE includes gloves, goggles, and mask when splashing is possible.
Anatomy and Physiology of the Skin
Epidermis layers from deepest to surface: stratum basale, spinosum, granulosum, lucidum (palms/soles only), corneum.
Keratinocytes are formed in the stratum basale and migrate upward; the entire epidermal turnover takes about 28 days.
Dermis contains collagen (strength), elastin (elasticity), and glycosaminoglycans (hydration); it houses nerves, vessels, and glands.
Hypodermis (subcutaneous layer) consists of adipose tissue and provides insulation, cushioning, and energy storage.
Sebaceous glands secrete sebum, controlled by androgens; sebum production peaks in the T-zone.
Eccrine sweat glands regulate temperature and are distributed over most of the body; apocrine glands are in axillae and groin.
Melanocytes produce melanin in the stratum basale; melanin protects against UV and determines skin color.
Skin functions include protection, sensation, thermoregulation, excretion, secretion, and vitamin D synthesis.
Fitzpatrick skin types I–VI classify sun reactivity: type I always burns, never tans; type VI never burns, deeply pigmented.
Skin Analysis and Skin Types
Skin types: normal, dry, oily, combination, sensitive; combination skin has an oily T-zone and normal-to-dry cheeks.
Assess with visual inspection, palpation, and magnification lamp; note pore size, texture, hydration, and lesions.
Fitzpatrick scale guides sun protection recommendations and risk of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.
Skin conditions include dehydration, acne, rosacea, hyperpigmentation, and aging; contraindications for treatment must be identified.
Oily skin has enlarged pores and shine; dry skin has flakiness and tightness; sensitive skin reacts with redness or stinging.
Lesion analysis: primary lesions (macule, papule, pustule, vesicle) versus secondary (scale, crust, scar).
Contraindications for facial treatments include open lesions, sunburn, recent chemical peel, and active infection.
Client history includes medications, allergies, pregnancy, and previous cosmetic procedures; document all findings.
Chemistry and Product Knowledge
pH scale 0–14; skin surface pH is about 4.5–5.5 (acidic mantle); products should be pH-balanced to avoid barrier disruption.
Alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) such as glycolic and lactic acid exfoliate by loosening desmosomes; beta hydroxy acid (salicylic acid) is lipid-soluble and penetrates pores.
Retinoids increase cell turnover and collagen synthesis; they cause photosensitivity, so daily sunscreen is required.
Vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) is an antioxidant that inhibits tyrosinase and supports collagen; it degrades with light and heat.
Emulsions: oil-in-water (O/W) is lighter and non-greasy; water-in-oil (W/O) is heavier and more occlusive.
Surfactants clean by lowering surface tension; they can strip lipids, so choose gentle, sulfate-free cleansers for dry or sensitive skin.
Humectants (glycerin, hyaluronic acid) attract water; emollients (oils, esters) soften; occlusives (petrolatum, dimethicone) prevent water loss.
Preservatives prevent microbial growth; parabens and phenoxyethanol are common; products must be used within PAO (period after opening).
Facial Treatments and Massage
Basic facial sequence: consultation and skin analysis → cleansing → exfoliation → extraction (if indicated) → massage → mask → moisturizer and SPF.
Massage movements include effleurage (gliding), petrissage (kneading), tapotement (tapping), and friction (rubbing); always move upward and outward.
Contraindications for massage: active acne, inflammation, recent surgery, fever, and contagious skin conditions.
Extraction is performed only on pustules and comedones after softening with steam or warm towel; never squeeze inflamed cysts.
Steam should be 3–5 minutes at a comfortable distance; avoid for clients with rosacea or sensitive skin.
Mask types: clay (oily), hydrating (dry), gel (sensitive), and peel-off (not for sensitive or dry skin).
Client draping and positioning: supine with head elevated; protect hair and clothing; maintain professional boundaries.
After treatment, apply SPF 30+ and advise avoiding sun exposure and harsh products for 24–48 hours.
Hair Removal (Waxing and Tweezing)
Hair growth cycle: anagen (growth), catagen (transition), telogen (rest); waxing is most effective in anagen phase.
Wax should be applied in the direction of hair growth and removed against the growth; hold skin taut to minimize discomfort.
Hard wax is used for sensitive areas (face, bikini); soft wax requires strips and is used for larger areas.
Contraindications for waxing: isotretinoin (Accutane) within 6 months, retinoids, recent chemical peel, sunburn, and active skin infection.
Patch test 24–48 hours before first waxing; test on a small area for allergic reaction.
Post-wax care: apply soothing lotion, avoid heat, sun, and tight clothing for 24 hours; no exfoliation for 24–48 hours.
Tweezing is for isolated hairs; clean tweezers with disinfectant before and after use; never share.
Wax pots must be cleaned and disinfected regularly; never double-dip applicators; use a new spatula for each client.
Makeup Application and Eyelash Services
Foundation selection: match undertone (warm, cool, neutral) and skin type; oil-free for oily skin, hydrating for dry skin.
Color theory: complementary colors neutralize; green cancels redness, peach/orange cancels blue/purple, yellow cancels dark circles.
Eyelash extensions require a patch test for adhesive; use lint-free applicators and keep glue away from the eye.
Lash contraindications: eye infections, recent eye surgery, allergies to cyanoacrylate, and trichotillomania.
Sanitation for makeup: never double-dip mascara or lip products; sharpen pencils before each use; disinfect palettes and brushes.
Brush cleaning: wash with soap and water weekly, disinfect with 70% isopropyl alcohol between clients.
Lash lift and tint require a consultation and patch test; avoid water on lashes for 24 hours after a lift.
Makeup application order: primer → foundation → concealer → powder → eyes → blush → lips; blend edges for a natural finish.
Client Consultation, Communication, and Professional Ethics
Consultation includes medical history, medications, allergies, lifestyle, and expectations; document and obtain informed consent.
Informed consent must explain procedure, benefits, risks, alternatives, and aftercare; client signs and dates the form.
Confidentiality: client records and information are private; do not share without written consent, except as required by law.
Professional boundaries: avoid dual relationships, inappropriate touching, and personal social media contact.
Communication skills: active listening, open-ended questions, and reflective feedback; avoid medical diagnosis.
Scope of practice: estheticians do not diagnose or treat medical conditions; refer suspected conditions to a physician.
Cultural competence: respect diversity, use inclusive language, and adapt treatment to individual needs.
Conflict resolution: stay calm, listen, acknowledge concerns, and follow facility policy; document incidents.