Plant Selection, Identification, and Installation
Selection starts with the site
Analyze light, soil texture and drainage, exposure, irrigation availability, and the space the plant will occupy at maturity. Oregon spans hardiness zones from roughly 5 in the high desert to 9 on the coast, and western Oregon's wet winters and dry summers favor plants adapted to that cycle. Group plants by water need (hydrozoning) so one valve does not starve drought-tolerant natives while drowning moisture lovers. Native and adapted species such as vine maple, Oregon grape, salal, and sword fern reduce irrigation demand when sited correctly.
Installation mechanics
Dig the hole two to three times the width of the root ball but no deeper than the root ball. Locate the root flare, remove the top of burlap, twine and wire baskets, and score circling roots. Backfill with the native soil; heavy amendment of an individual hole creates a bathtub that holds water. Water thoroughly to settle soil, mulch two to four inches deep and keep mulch off the trunk, and fertilize only after establishment. Stake only when the root ball cannot hold the plant, and remove ties within a season.
Identification
Use leaf arrangement (alternate, opposite, whorled), margin, venation, bud type, bark, and habit. Questions often show a description of opposite leaves with square stems; that points to the mint family rather than a look-alike.
Common traps: planting too deep, adding gravel to the bottom of a hole for drainage, and overwatering newly installed natives.
Rule of thumb: the top of the root ball sits at or slightly above finished grade, and the root flare stays visible.