WI Cosmetology cheat sheet

The skull has 22 bones: 8 cranial (frontal, 2 parietal, 2 temporal, occipital, ethmoid, sphenoid) and 14 facial.

The fifth cranial nerve (trigeminal) is the chief sensory nerve of the face and the motor nerve for chewing; the seventh (facial) is the chief motor nerve of facial expression.

Key muscles: frontalis raises the brows, temporalis and masseter close the jaw, sternocleidomastoid rotates the head, platysma covers the front of the neck.

The pH scale runs 0-14 with 7 neutral; hair and skin are acidic at about 4.5-5.5, so alkaline products swell the cuticle and acids tighten and harden it.

Sanitation removes visible soil; disinfection destroys most microorganisms except bacterial spores on hard nonporous items; sterilization destroys all microorganisms including spores.

Bacteria shapes are cocci (round), bacilli (rod) and spirilla (spiral); Staphylococcus aureus causes localized skin infections and boils.

Standard precautions: treat all blood and body fluids as infectious, wear gloves, and clean and disinfect every contaminated tool and surface.

Hair follicle structures: follicle, bulb, arrector pili muscle and sebaceous gland; the sebaceous gland supplies sebum to the hair and scalp.

Cell anatomy: the nucleus directs cell activity, mitochondria produce ATP energy, and the cell membrane controls what enters and leaves the cell.

Growth cycle: anagen lasts 2-6 years and holds about 90% of scalp hair, catagen lasts a few days, telogen lasts about 3 months; shedding 50-100 hairs daily is normal.

Hair shaft layers: cuticle (protective scales), cortex (thickest layer, holds melanin and disulfide bonds), medulla (sometimes absent in fine hair).

Side bonds: disulfide bonds are broken by relaxers and perms, hydrogen bonds are broken by water and re-formed by drying or setting, salt bonds are broken by pH change.

Cutting angles: 0 degrees gives a blunt one-length line, 45 degrees gives graduation, 90 degrees gives uniform layers, 180 degrees gives long layers; elevation controls where weight builds.

Hydroxide relaxers have a pH of about 11.5-14 and are not self-neutralizing; ammonium thioglycolate relaxers run about pH 9.0-10.0 and require a neutralizer.

Alkaline waves run pH 8.5-9.5, acid waves pH 7.0-7.5 and need heat, true acid waves pH 4.5-7.0; every permanent wave needs a neutralizer to rebuild disulfide bonds.

Color levels run 1 (black) to 10 (lightest blonde); developer volumes: 10 volume (3%) deposits only, 20 volume (6%) lifts about 1 level, 30 volume (9%) 2-3 levels, 40 volume (12%) 3-4 levels.

Law of color: primary colors are blue, red and yellow; secondary colors come from mixing two primaries and neutralize their opposite primary.

Patch test aniline derivative color 24-48 hours before the service and strand test to confirm processing time and the predicted result.

The epidermis has five layers, the outermost being the keratinized stratum corneum; the dermis holds nerves, vessels and glands, and subcutaneous tissue is fat.

The acid mantle is a film of sebum and sweat at pH 4.5-5.5 that limits bacteria and reduces moisture loss; alkaline cleansers disrupt it.

Fitzpatrick types I-VI: type I always burns and never tans, type VI never burns and is deeply pigmented; deeper types are more prone to post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.

Massage movements: effleurage (gliding), petrissage (kneading), tapotement (tapping), vibration and friction; strokes follow muscle fibers, generally upward and outward.

Skin types are normal, dry, oily, combination (T-zone) and sensitive; oily skin can still be dehydrated.

AHA exfoliants such as glycolic and lactic acid are water-soluble; BHA (salicylic acid) is oil-soluble and suited to oily, congested skin.

Contraindications include active infection, open lesions, sunburn, recent waxing or chemical peel, and medications that thin or sensitize the skin.

Nail structures: plate, bed, matrix, lunula, cuticle, eponychium, hyponychium, sidewalls and free edge.

The nail plate is hard keratin; growth averages 0.1 mm per day (about 1/8 inch per month), faster on fingernails and in warm weather.

Matrix damage causes permanent deformity or ridges; the lunula is the visible portion of the matrix showing through the plate.

Fungal infection (onychomycosis) and inflamed nail folds (paronychia) are contraindications; refer the client to a physician.

Metal implements are cleaned, then disinfected with an EPA-registered hospital-grade tuberculocidal disinfectant; porous files and buffers are single-use or given to the client.

Nail disorders: onychorrhexis (splitting and ridges), koilonychia (spoon nails), leukonychia (white spots), onycholysis (plate lifting from the bed).

Do not cut living tissue around the nail; push back the cuticle and nip only dead hanging tissue where rules allow.

Net profit = total revenue minus (cost of goods + operating expenses); gross profit subtracts only the direct cost of goods sold.

Compensation models: commission, where the stylist typically earns 40-60% of service revenue, versus booth rental, a fixed weekly rent with self-employed status.

Average ticket = total revenue divided by clients served; raising it with add-on services usually costs less than acquiring a new client.

Retail sales are commonly targeted at about 20% of service revenue in a healthy salon.

Booth renters are independent contractors who carry their own liability insurance and pay self-employment tax.

OSHA Hazard Communication requires an SDS for every chemical in the salon, labels on secondary containers, and documented staff training.

Client records should note services performed, chemical formulations, patch test results and consent so results can be reproduced safely.

Wisconsin regulates cosmetology through the Department of Safety and Professional Services (DSPS), which licenses cosmetologists, barbers, aestheticians, electrologists, manicurists and establishments.

A current license must be displayed or available for inspection at the work location; practicing without one can bring fines and denial of future licensure.

Scope of practice limits each license: manicurists perform nail services, aestheticians perform skin care, cosmetologists perform hair, skin and nail services.

Implements must be cleaned and then disinfected with an EPA-registered hospital-grade disinfectant after each client; porous items are discarded.

Services may only be performed in a licensed establishment; renting space to or employing an unlicensed person is prohibited.

Informed consent is required for services, and contraindicated medical conditions must be referred to a physician rather than treated.

False or misleading advertising and unlicensed services are grounds for discipline, suspension or revocation of a license.

Electrical safety: use GFCI-protected outlets near water, inspect cords for fraying, keep cords out of walkways and never place metal near outlets.

Store chemicals in closed, labeled original containers away from heat and sunlight; never mix products such as bleach and ammonia.

Blood or body fluid spill response: gloves, absorbent towel, EPA-registered hospital disinfectant, sealed waste bag, then hand washing.

Adequate ventilation is required when mixing acrylics or applying relaxers and nail products; use exhaust fans or open windows.

Ergonomics: adjust chair and client height, keep wrists neutral and alternate tasks to reduce repetitive strain injuries.

Keep a fire extinguisher accessible, exits clear and staff trained on the salon evacuation plan.

PPE: wear gloves and eye protection where splashing is possible, and wash hands before and after every service.