BGCSE Fashion & Fabrics cheat sheet

Fibre classes: natural (cotton, linen, silk, wool) and manufactured (regenerated such as viscose, synthetic such as polyester, nylon, acrylic).

Staple fibres are short (cotton, wool, linen); filament fibres are continuous (silk, polyester). Staple yarns are spun by twisting; filament yarns may be used flat or textured.

Yarn twist: higher twist gives stronger, smoother, less absorbent yarn; low twist gives softer, bulkier yarn. S-twist and Z-twist describe spiral direction.

Basic weaves: plain (one-over-one, strongest, least lustrous), twill (diagonal lines, floats give drape and soil hiding), satin (long floats, high lustre, low abrasion resistance).

Knitted fabrics are built from interlocking loops: weft knit (jersey) stretches crosswise and may curl; warp knit (tricot) is more stable. Knits generally stretch more than wovens.

Non-woven fabrics are bonded fibres or filaments (felt, interfacing, fusible web) with no yarn structure; they do not fray but have low strength and no grain line.

Fabric count and balance: a balanced plain weave has similar warp and weft density; warp yarns run lengthwise (selvedge to selvedge) and are usually stronger and more tightly twisted.

Burn test indicators: cotton smells of burning paper and leaves grey ash; wool smells of burnt hair and leaves crushable black ash; synthetics melt and form a hard bead.

Absorbency: cotton and linen absorb well and are comfortable in heat; polyester and nylon absorb little and dry quickly.

Thermal behaviour: wool insulates because crimp traps air; synthetics melt at high temperature, so hot ironing can glaze or hole the fabric.

Drape is how a fabric hangs under its own weight; satin, viscose and fine knits drape softly, while canvas and organza are stiff.

Elasticity and recovery: knits and elastane-blended fabrics stretch and recover; woven cotton stretches little and recovers poorly.

Dimensional stability: shrinkage occurs most in loose plain-weave cotton and viscose; pre-shrink by washing or buy extra length for shrinkage allowance.

Pilling results from short fibres working loose and tangling into balls; it is common in wool blends, acrylic and polyester blends, and low-twist knits.

Lustre depends on fibre shape, yarn twist and weave: filament fibres and long satin floats reflect light, while spun staple yarns appear matte.

Strength wet and dry: cotton and linen are stronger wet; viscose loses strength when wet; silk loses some strength when wet, so handle with care.

Mechanical finishes: calendering (pressing for smoothness and lustre), raising (brushing fibres up for warmth), sanforising (compressive shrinkage control), and schreiner calendering for cotton lustre.

Chemical finishes: mercerising (caustic soda on cotton increases strength, lustre and dye uptake), resin easy-care (reduces creasing but lowers strength and absorbency), water-repellent and flame-retardant finishes.

Care label symbols: washtub with a number gives maximum wash temperature; a bar under the tub means mild cycle; a triangle means bleach is allowed, crossed triangle means no bleach.

Ironing symbols: one dot low heat (synthetics), two dots medium (wool, silk), three dots high (cotton, linen); a crossed iron means do not iron.

Dry-clean symbol is a circle; a letter inside names the solvent, and a cross through the circle means do not dry-clean.

Washing decision rule: match water temperature to the most heat-sensitive fibre in the garment, and match detergent to fibre type (neutral for wool and silk, no chlorine bleach on wool or silk).

Drying: tumble drying shrinks cotton and can set creases in synthetics; flat drying prevents stretching of knits; line drying in shade prevents fading.

Needle size increases with fabric weight: fine needles (size 60-70/8-10) for silk and fine cotton, medium (80/12) for medium cotton, heavy (90-110/14-18) for denim and canvas.

Machine needle points: sharp for wovens, ballpoint for knits, universal for most fabrics, leather point for leather and vinyl.

Stitch length: shorter stitches (2-2.5 mm) for fine fabrics and curves, longer stitches (3-4 mm) for heavy fabrics and basting; too short a stitch perforates and puckers fabric.

Thread choice: cotton thread for cotton and linen, polyester thread for synthetics and knits, silk thread for silk and wool tailoring; thread should be slightly finer than the fabric weight.

Essential measuring and marking tools: tape measure, metre rule, seam gauge, tailor's chalk or fabric marker, tracing wheel and carbon, and dressmaker's pins placed inside seam lines.

Cutting tools: bent-handled shears for table cutting, pinking shears to reduce fraying, small embroidery scissors for buttonholes; never cut paper with fabric shears.

Safety rules: unplug the machine before changing needles, keep fingers clear of the needle path, do not place pins in the mouth, and store needles and blades in a closed container.

Pattern envelope information: size chart, required fabric width and length, notions list, and suggested fabrics; pattern size is not the same as ready-to-wear size, so use body measurements.

Key measurements: bust or chest, waist, hip, back neck to waist, shoulder width, sleeve length, inside leg and garment length; take over light clothing and keep the tape level and snug.

Ease = finished garment measurement minus body measurement. Wearing ease allows movement; design ease is the extra added for style.

Pattern symbols: grain line arrow (align parallel to selvedge), notches (match pieces), fold line, dart, buttonhole, and place-on-fold bracket.

Alteration rule: adjust the pattern, not the cut fabric. Lengthen or shorten by slashing and spreading or overlapping, and adjust the same amount on adjoining seams.

Bust adjustment: slash from the bust point to the side seam and to the waist, spread for the needed amount, and true the dart; small-bust adjustment reverses the process.

Fabric layout: fold fabric right sides together, place pieces in the direction of the nap or print, and use the correct layout for fabric width (single layer or double layer).

Seam allowance is usually 1.5 cm (5/8 inch) on commercial patterns; clip inside curves and notch outside curves so the seam lies flat.

Plain seam is pressed open; French seam encloses raw edges and suits fine, sheer fabrics; flat-felled seam is strong and decorative for denim and sportswear.

Darts are stitched from the wide end to the point and tied off, not backstitched, to avoid a bulky point; press darts over a ham.

Gathering uses two parallel rows of long stitches, then pull the bobbin threads to distribute fullness evenly to the required length.

Zipper insertion: centred, lapped and invisible methods each need a specific foot; invisible zippers are stitched close to the coil with the foot's groove.

Facings finish necklines and armholes and are understitched to the seam allowance so they roll to the inside; interfacing supports collars, cuffs and waistbands.

Hems: narrow machine hem for lightweight fabric, blind hem for tailored garments, and bias-bound or rolled hem for sheer or curved edges.

Pressing is a construction step: press as you sew, use a pressing cloth on synthetics and wool, and press seams before crossing them to reduce bulk.

Colour wheel relationships: complementary colours sit opposite (high contrast), analogous colours sit side by side (harmonious), and triadic colours are evenly spaced.

Colour dimensions: hue is the colour name, value is lightness or darkness, and intensity or saturation is purity; tints add white, shades add black, tones add grey.

Warm colours (red, orange, yellow) appear to advance; cool colours (blue, green, violet) appear to recede, so placement changes perceived body shape.

Neutral colours (black, white, grey, beige) combine with any hue; a single accent colour creates emphasis in a neutral outfit.

Design principles: balance, rhythm through repetition, proportion, emphasis and unity; a garment should read as one unified whole.

Fashion figure proportions for illustration: about 8 to 9 heads tall, with the waist at roughly 3 heads and the hip at 4 heads from the top.

Illustration media: marker, watercolour, gouache, coloured pencil and digital tools; croquis templates speed up repeated figure drawing.

Fabric rendering: show lustre with sharp highlights, wool with matte texture, and drape with long flowing lines that follow body curves.

Embroidery stitches: running stitch (line), backstitch (firm outline), chain stitch (textured line), satin stitch (solid fill) and French knot (raised dot).

Appliqué attaches a cut fabric shape to a base fabric and is secured by hand slip stitch, machine zigzag or fusible web; edges may be raw or turned.

Patchwork joins cut pieces into a new fabric; quilting sandwiches wadding between two layers and stitches through to hold it.

Tie-dye resists dye by binding fabric with thread or rubber bands; batik resists with wax, which is removed by boiling after dyeing.

Block printing uses a carved stamp and thickened dye or paint; screen printing pushes paste through a mesh stencil.

Smocking gathers fabric with rows of stitches to create stretch and pattern; shirring uses elastic thread in the bobbin to gather fabric.

Fabric painting needs a barrier such as wax paper or cardboard between layers, and heat-setting follows the manufacturer's instructions.

Garment cost = materials + labour + overheads + profit margin. Materials include fabric length x price per metre, thread, interfacing, fastenings and trims.

Fabric quantity estimate: for a simple skirt, allow 2 garment lengths plus 20-30 cm for hems, seams and shrinkage; check the pattern envelope for exact width-based amounts.

Cost per wear = total garment cost divided by number of wears; higher initial price can give lower cost per wear if the garment is durable and versatile.

Care label and fibre content are legal requirements in many markets and are the consumer's main guide to washing, ironing and dry cleaning.

Fit and quality checks: seams straight and secure, pattern matched at seams, grain line straight, buttons evenly spaced, hem even and stitches invisible.

Sustainable choices: natural or recycled fibres, durable construction, classic design for longer wear, repair and alteration, and responsible disposal or textile recycling.

Certification labels such as organic, recycled-content and fair-trade marks give verifiable information about fibre origin and labour conditions.

A coursework portfolio records the design process: brief, research, mood board, design ideas, fabric and notion choices, working drawings, construction order, samples and evaluation.

A working drawing is a flat technical drawing with seams, darts, closures and topstitching shown, plus a specification list of measurements and materials.

Sample book entries should record fabric name, fibre content, needle and stitch used, tension, and the result, so choices can be justified later.

Construction plan order: prepare pattern and fabric, cut, mark, stay-stitch, sew darts and seams, insert closures, attach facings, set sleeves, hem, and press at each stage.

Evaluation criteria: fit against measurements, quality of seams and finish, suitability of fabric to design, wearer comfort, and evidence of problem-solving.

Time and cost records support the final marking: log hours, materials used and cost, and photograph stages as evidence of process.

Health and safety in the workshop: keep the iron cord clear, use a heat-proof stand, ventilate when using adhesives and dyes, and tidy pins and scraps after each session.