BGCSE Fashion & Fabrics flashcards

33 cards. Read the term and the definition here. The deck at the top of this page is optional.

Staple versus filament fibre

Staple fibres are short lengths such as cotton and wool that must be twisted together into yarn. Filament fibres are continuous strands such as silk or polyester and can be used without spinning.

Plain weave characteristics

Each warp yarn passes over one weft and under the next. This produces the firmest, least lustrous weave with good stability, used for calico, poplin and muslin.

Twill weave

Warp yarns float over two or more weft yarns, creating a diagonal line. Twill is strong, hides soil and drapes well, and is used for denim and gabardine.

Warp and weft direction

Warp yarns run lengthwise parallel to the selvedge and are usually stronger. Weft yarns run crosswise. The lengthwise grain has least stretch and should follow the body's vertical.

Weft-knitted jersey fabric

Loops interlock across the width in one continuous yarn. Jersey stretches crosswise, curls at the edges, and is comfortable but prone to laddering if a stitch breaks.

Burn test identification

Burning a few fibres shows origin: cotton smells of paper and leaves soft grey ash, wool smells of hair and leaves crushable black ash, and polyester melts into a hard bead.

Absorbency of fibres

Cotton, linen and viscose absorb moisture readily and feel cool. Polyester, nylon and acrylic absorb very little, dry fast and can feel clammy in heat.

Fabric drape

Drape is how a fabric hangs and folds under its own weight. Soft drape suits fluid designs, while stiff fabrics hold structured shapes such as pleats and stand collars.

Pilling on fabrics

Short loose fibres rub together and form small tangled balls on the surface. Pilling is common in wool blends, acrylic and low-twist knits, and is removed with a fabric comb.

Wet strength of viscose

Viscose rayon loses roughly half its strength when wet. It must be handled gently during washing and never wrung or hung dripping, or the garment will stretch out of shape.

Mercerising finish

Caustic soda treatment under tension makes cotton stronger, more lustrous and more receptive to dye. The fibre becomes rounder and smoother, reflecting more light.

Sanforising shrinkage control

A mechanical finish that compresses cotton fabric against a rubber blanket to reduce residual shrinkage. Sanforised cotton garments keep their size after repeated washing.

Resin easy-care finish

A chemical finish applied mainly to cotton and viscose to reduce creasing and shrinkage. It lowers strength and absorbency, so resin-treated fabrics need gentler washing.

Care label ironing dots

One dot means low heat for synthetics, two dots medium heat for wool and silk, three dots high heat for cotton and linen. A cross through the iron means do not iron.

Machine needle sizes

Needle size rises with fabric weight: 60-70 for fine silk, 80 for medium cotton, 90-100 for denim, 110 for canvas. Ballpoint needles suit knits and sharp needles suit wovens.

Stitch length choice

Short stitches of about 2 mm suit fine fabrics and tight curves, while 3-4 mm stitches suit heavy fabric and basting. Very short stitches pucker and perforate the fabric.

Pinking shears purpose

Pinking shears cut a zigzag edge that reduces fraying on firmly woven fabrics. They are a quick finish for seam allowances on fabrics that do not ravel badly.

Seam gauge use

A small metal ruler with a sliding marker used to mark and check hem depths, seam allowances and buttonhole spacing quickly and accurately along an edge.

Wearing ease versus design ease

Wearing ease is the minimum extra room needed for movement and breathing. Design ease is added beyond that to create a style, such as a loose or fitted silhouette.

Pattern grain line arrow

A long arrow printed on each pattern piece that must be placed parallel to the selvedge. Ignoring it causes the finished garment to twist and hang unevenly.

Pattern notches

Small marks on pattern edges that must be matched and cut identically on both pieces. They align seams correctly during construction, especially on curves and sleeves.

Bust adjustment procedure

Slash from the bust point to the side seam and to the waist, spread the required amount, then redraw and true the dart so the pattern fits a larger bust.

French seam

A seam sewn twice, first wrong sides together and then right sides together, enclosing the raw edges. It gives a neat, strong finish for sheer and lightweight fabrics.

Understitching a facing

Stitching the seam allowance to the facing close to the seam keeps the facing rolled to the inside and stops it showing on the right side of a neckline.

Gathering with two rows

Two parallel rows of long machine stitches are sewn inside the seam allowance, then the bobbin threads are pulled to draw up even fullness to the required length.

Dart pressing technique

Press darts over a curved ham, vertical darts toward the centre and horizontal darts downward, to shape the fabric without creating a hard crease line.

Colour wheel relationships

Complementary colours sit opposite and create contrast, analogous colours sit side by side and harmonise, and triadic colours are evenly spaced for a balanced scheme.

Hue, value and intensity

Hue is the colour name, value is its lightness or darkness, and intensity is its purity. Tints add white, shades add black and tones add grey to a hue.

Fashion croquis proportions

A fashion figure is drawn about eight to nine heads tall, with the waist near three heads and the hips near four heads from the top of the head.

Appliqué technique

A shaped piece of fabric is stitched onto a base fabric to decorate it. Edges may be turned and slip-stitched or left raw and secured with dense zigzag stitching.

Batik resist process

Molten wax is applied to fabric to resist dye, then the fabric is dyed and the wax removed by boiling. Cracked wax creates fine veined patterns.

Cost per wear formula

Total garment cost divided by the number of times it is worn. A durable, versatile garment can have a lower cost per wear than a cheap one worn rarely.

Portfolio evaluation section

The final part of a coursework portfolio that judges fit, finish quality, fabric suitability, comfort and problem-solving against the original design brief.