BGCSE Fashion & Fabrics key terms

The basic hair-like unit from which yarns and fabrics are made. Fibres may be natural, such as cotton or wool, or manufactured, such as polyester, and their length and strength affect the finished cloth.

A short fibre measured in centimetres rather than metres. Cotton, wool and flax are staple fibres, and their short length means they must be twisted together to form a strong yarn.

A fibre of continuous, unbroken length, either produced naturally by silkworms or extruded through spinnerets in manufacturing. Filaments give smooth, lustrous fabrics and need little twisting to make yarn.

The process of drawing out and twisting loose fibres into a continuous yarn. The amount of twist controls the yarn's strength, smoothness and handle, so spinning choices directly influence the final fabric.

A continuous strand of twisted fibres or filaments used for knitting, weaving or sewing. Yarn thickness, twist and ply determine how a fabric looks, feels and performs in wear.

The number of single yarns twisted together to make a finished yarn. Two-ply yarn is stronger and smoother than a single yarn, and higher ply counts usually give firmer, more durable fabrics.

The set of lengthwise yarns held under tension on a loom during weaving. Warp threads run parallel to the selvedge and form the fabric's strong, stable direction, which is why patterns are placed along the grain.

The crosswise yarns woven over and under the warp threads. Weft runs from selvedge to selvedge and usually has more stretch and less strength than the warp direction.

The firmly woven, self-finished edge running along both lengthwise sides of a woven fabric. It prevents fraying and marks the warp direction, helping you align pattern pieces correctly on grain.

The direction of the yarns within a woven fabric. Lengthwise grain follows the warp, crosswise grain follows the weft, and matching pattern pieces to the grain keeps a garment hanging straight and prevents twisting.

The diagonal direction of a woven fabric, at 45 degrees to the warp and weft. Bias has the greatest stretch and drape, which is why bias-cut garments cling and bias binding curves smoothly around edges.

A narrow strip of fabric cut on the bias and folded to enclose a raw edge. Because it stretches and curves, it neatly finishes necklines, armholes and hems on both straight and curved seams.

How heavy or thick a fabric is, usually expressed in grams per square metre. Weight guides the choice of garment: light fabrics suit blouses and linings, while heavy fabrics suit coats and tailored trousers.

The way a fabric hangs and falls into folds under its own weight. Soft, fluid fabrics drape closely to the body, while stiff fabrics stand away, so drape must match the design of a garment.

The feel of a fabric when touched and squeezed, described as crisp, soft, smooth or rough. Handle helps a maker judge whether a cloth suits a design and how it will behave during cutting and sewing.

The characteristics that describe how a fabric behaves, including absorbency, strength, elasticity, shrinkage and colourfastness. Knowing these properties lets you predict comfort, durability and the care a garment will need.

The ability of a fabric to take in and hold moisture. Cotton and linen absorb well and feel comfortable in heat, while polyester absorbs little and dries quickly, which matters for sportswear and underwear.

The resistance of a dyed fabric to losing colour through washing, rubbing, light or perspiration. Poor colourfastness causes fading and dye transfer, so fabrics should be tested and sorted before laundering.

The reduction in size a fabric undergoes when washed or pressed, caused by fibres relaxing or felting. Pre-shrinking or washing fabric before cutting prevents finished garments from becoming too small.

Treating fabric, usually by washing and drying it, before cutting so that most shrinkage happens in advance. This simple step protects the fit of the finished garment and reduces later distortion.

A permanent label inside a garment giving instructions for washing, drying, ironing and dry cleaning. Following it protects the fabric and helps the wearer keep the garment looking good for longer.

The extra width of fabric beyond the stitching line, usually 1.5 centimetres, that is trimmed or pressed inside a garment. Consistent seam allowances keep seams strong and make construction predictable.

A method of neatening raw seam edges to stop fraying and give a tidy inside. Options include zigzagging, overlocking, French seams and bias binding, chosen according to fabric type and garment quality.

The distance between successive needle holes in a line of stitching. Short stitches suit fine fabrics and stay-stitching, while longer stitches suit heavy fabrics and basting, where they are easier to remove.

Long, loose hand or machine stitches used to hold fabric layers together temporarily before final stitching. Basting is removed afterwards and helps keep slippery or patterned fabrics aligned.

Temporary stitches, often worked by hand, that join layers or mark a position before permanent sewing. Tacking prevents shifting and is removed once the final seam or fitting is complete.

Using heat, moisture and pressure with an iron to shape and flatten seams and fabric during construction. Pressing after each stage gives a professional finish, unlike ironing, which slides the iron across the cloth.

A machine that trims the seam edge and wraps it in thread to prevent fraying, often using several threads. It gives a fast, neat finish on knit and woven fabrics but does not replace a sewing machine.

The balance of thread tightness between the upper and lower looper or bobbin systems. Correct tension produces even, flat stitches; incorrect tension causes loops, puckering or breaking threads.

A powered machine that forms lockstitches by passing a needle and upper thread through the fabric to interlock with a lower bobbin thread. Correct threading, needle choice and maintenance keep stitches reliable.

The arrangement of pattern pieces on the fabric according to grainlines, fold lines and nap direction. A careful layout saves fabric, keeps pieces on the correct grain and avoids mismatched or wasted cloth.

A small mark cut or drawn on pattern edges to show where two pieces should be matched during sewing. Matching notches ensures curves and seams line up accurately and prevents twisting.

A trial garment made in inexpensive fabric to test the fit and design of a pattern before cutting the final cloth. Alterations are marked on the toile and transferred back to the pattern.

A folded and stitched wedge of fabric that shapes flat cloth to the curves of the body, often at the bust, waist or back. Darts remove excess fullness and improve fit and appearance.

Drawing up fabric along parallel rows of long stitches to create soft, even folds. Gathering controls fullness at waistlines, cuffs and sleeves and is distributed evenly before it is stitched in place.

The finished lower edge of a garment, folded and stitched to enclose the raw edge and add weight. Hems may be hand-sewn, machined or bound, and their choice affects the garment's drape and durability.

A circular chart arranging hues to show relationships such as complementary, analogous and triadic colours. Designers use it to plan harmonious colour schemes and to create deliberate contrast in a garment.

Two colours lying opposite each other on the colour wheel, such as red and green or blue and orange. Placed together they create strong contrast and vibrancy, useful for emphasis or dramatic effects.

The name of a pure colour, such as red, yellow or blue, before it is lightened or darkened. Hue is one of the three dimensions of colour, alongside value and intensity.

A collection of images, fabric swatches and colour samples assembled to express the feeling and direction of a design idea. It helps a designer communicate a theme and keep a collection consistent.

A drawing that communicates a garment design, often exaggerating the figure to show mood, movement and detail. Illustrations are quicker and more expressive than technical flats used for manufacture.

A resist-dyeing craft in which melted wax is drawn or stamped onto cloth before dyeing. Waxed areas resist the dye and leave patterns when the wax is removed, producing characteristic crackled lines.

A resist technique where fabric is tied, folded or bound tightly before dyeing so bound areas stay lighter. The result is a soft, irregular pattern that depends on the folds and ties used.

A decorative technique of cutting shapes from one fabric and stitching them onto another. Applique adds colour, pattern and texture and is often finished with satin stitch or blanket stitch around the edges.

Decorating fabric with stitches worked by hand or machine to create patterns, motifs or texture. It can outline, fill or embellish a surface and is often used to personalise garments and household items.

A textile craft in which small pieces of fabric are sewn together edge to edge to form a larger patterned cloth. Patchwork uses up scraps, adds colour and is often combined with quilting for warmth.

A short written statement setting out the client, purpose, target wearer, budget and constraints of a design task. It keeps the designer focused and provides criteria for judging the finished work.

A breakdown of every cost involved in producing a garment, including fabric, trims, labour and overheads. Adding a profit margin to the total gives the selling price and shows where savings can be made.

Designing, making and using clothing in ways that reduce harm to people and the environment. It includes choosing durable fibres, minimising waste, recycling, repairing garments and supporting fair working conditions.

Creating a new, higher-value item from used clothing or textile waste rather than discarding it. Upcycling saves resources, reduces landfill and encourages creative reuse of existing fabrics and trims.

An organised collection of a student's design work, samples, research and finished photographs that shows progress and skill. A strong portfolio includes evidence of planning, evaluation and reflection on improvements.

A written judgement of how well a finished product met the design brief, covering fit, finish, cost and wearer satisfaction. It identifies strengths, weaknesses and realistic improvements for future work.