Patterns, Measurements and Fit
Pattern basics
Patterns show pieces, grain line, notches, darts, seam allowance, fold line and balance marks. The grain line must run parallel to the selvedge; ignoring it causes twisting. Commercial patterns give a size chart and a body measurement guide - always choose size by measurement, not age.
Taking measurements
Measure over light clothing, keep the tape level and snug, and record in centimetres. Key measurements: bust/chest, waist, hip, back length, inside leg, shoulder width. Ease is the difference between body and garment measurement - wearing ease allows movement, design ease creates style.
Altering and fitting
Common alterations: lengthening or shortening at the indicated line (never at the hem only), widening at side seams, adjusting darts. A toile (muslin) tests fit before cutting fashion fabric. Fit faults have tell-tale wrinkles: horizontal pull lines mean too tight, diagonal lines mean twisting grain, and a gaping neckline suggests excess width.
Traps
- Measuring over bulky clothes.
- Confusing seam allowance with ease.
- Shortening a pattern at the hem instead of the adjustment line, distorting shape.
- Forgetting to add seam allowance when drafting from scratch.
Rule of thumb
Measure twice, cut once; alter the pattern, not the fabric. Worked example: a bodice pulls across the bust with horizontal wrinkles - add width at the side seam and adjust the bust dart rather than letting out the centre front.